welshpug 1,657 Posted April 25, 2007 as above, what size Micrometer would I need to measure my crank? or put another way, what size are the main and big end bearings in a pug XU/XUD engine? I know decent ones are a few hundred quid but I just need something vaugely accurate/second hand to make diagnosis rather than final measurements which I would leave to an engine specialist, but I can bolt the things together myself I have a small 0-25mm one, so a 50-75mm do? of does it need to be less than 50mm? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy 191 Posted April 25, 2007 You'll need <50mm for the big ends and >50mm for the mains. Bit of a pain really! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted April 25, 2007 Thanks sandy, thought it would be something like that. In the meantime I've picked up what you said I'd need off ebay as I thought they'd come in handy sometime Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianthemagical 1 Posted April 25, 2007 a 50mm < 75 should cover both big ends and mains, they have a few mil either way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PumaRacing 2 Posted April 25, 2007 as above, what size Micrometer would I need to measure my crank? or put another way, what size are the main and big end bearings in a pug XU/XUD engine? I know decent ones are a few hundred quid Eh? Maybe if you want them gold plated or autographed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. but I just need something vaugely accurate/second hand to make diagnosis rather than final measurements which I would leave to an engine specialist, but I can bolt the things together myself I have a small 0-25mm one, so a 50-75mm do? of does it need to be less than 50mm? J&L own brand, made in Poland if I remember correctly, and bloody good bits of kit too. Poland has been churning out very good mikes for a while now. Near as dammit as good as a Mitutoyo or a Moore & Wright but for less than £20 a pop. I bought one for a mate's birthday present a couple of years ago and checked it out very carefully before I gave it to him. http://catalogs.shoplocal.com/jlindustrial...;pagenumber=522 Box of 4 covering 0-100mm for £55 or buy the three you don't have for £45. Peronally I'd buy a nice new matched set of 4 complete with setting gauges and a box and then you know you're right and you can measure everything from a valve stem to a piston to a fraction of a thou. I fail to see the point in buying something "vaguely accurate" when you can have something better than the shagged out old mike your engine reconditioner is likely to own for sod all money. The last time I had a crank ground it came back a full 1 thou under spec. That's no better than a 100,000 mile shagged one anyway. After he swore blind he'd done it spot on according to his micrometer I took my mike setting gauges over and found that 1 thou was the error on his mike which had been used as a G clamp, dropped god knows how many times and never been calibrated since the day he bought it. I made it very clear that GBH would ensue if I came back a second time after he'd ground to it to yet another undersize and it was still wrong and to be fair it was cock on. The sad part is it means that every crank he'd ground for years had gone out in a worse state than when it came in and not a single customer had checked his work or had their own gear to do so with. You can't beat having your own decent kit, calibrating it properly, looking after it well and then knowing you're right rather than relying on someone else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted April 26, 2007 aah thankyousir got a pair of Mitutoyo ones on the way Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahl 4 Posted April 26, 2007 Isambard Kingdom Brunel Wasn't he the guy that did the first mi16 into 205 conversion? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PumaRacing 2 Posted April 26, 2007 aah thankyousir got a pair of Mitutoyo ones on the way And very nice you'll find them too. Be aware you might still need to tweak them with the C spanner to get them to read cock on. Also be aware that you only need to hold the setting gauge in your hot sticky hand for a few seconds and it'll expand a few tenths. That's why they come with a rubber sheath to insulate them from hand heat while you set the mike up. Using a mike to a tenth or two isn't as easy as it first appears. It's all about feel, how you use the ratchet thimble, how you hold both the mike and the workpiece and how well you calibrate it to start with to suit your own method of use. Your 'fast twirlers' click that thimble over several revolutions before deciding they've got an accurate reading. Your 'slow twirlers' click it for just a couple of clicks and read a couple of tenths bigger. Then you've got the 'can't be arsed with the thimble' brigade who use light feel on the thumb wheel itself. Try measuring a known item with your eyes shut and see how many different readings you get after several tries. It might be enlightening. BTW, whenever I buy a mike I always check the setting gauge against precision workshop slip gauges first. Most precision engineers will have set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted April 26, 2007 Wasn't he the guy that did the first mi16 into 205 conversion? Back then it was called the Mi sixsteam conversion Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Doof 11 Posted April 26, 2007 I knew that Mi was never standard Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ahl 4 Posted April 26, 2007 Haha, the secret of C_W's "standard" mi16 at last! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted April 26, 2007 pulls like a train lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted May 1, 2007 thanks for the input and comedy guys, these arrived by recorded post this morning they look like they should be in a museum not my garage! (spotless condition though, look unused!) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
