Mike Walker 0 Posted April 10, 2007 After investigating a non-starting fault with an electronics engineer mate we've come to the conclusion that it could well be due to the fact that I have no power to F1 in the fuseboard. All the other fuses show power where and when they should but we get nothing out of F1. We have power to the switched live on the stereo loom so tried connecting this to F1 on the board with a length of wire. When you go to turn the car over with that connected you get relays clicking into action under the bonnet but it just blows F3 after a few seconds with the ignition switched. My mate who is vastly more knowledgable than me thinks that this must mean there's a short with something connected to F3 so to just methodically unplug everything relating to that until I get power to F1. I just wanted a sanity check on this idea really and to see whether before doing this I should just get another fuse board and try that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars Posted April 10, 2007 well fuse 3 is for the stereo, fuse 1 is cooling fan, reverse light and tacho. Fuse 3 is blowing as all these things are suddenly pulling power through it and over loading it. Try taking a live feed direct from ignition switch so its unfused prior to fuse 1 and see what happens then. If it blows fuse 1 then you have a fault with one of the above, if not then you just have a broken wire leading to fuse 1 which you already solved with the switched live from ignition switch. (ps, either of the yellow wires from ignition switch will do the job) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted April 10, 2007 Fuse 1 will only have 12v showing there with the ignition on as if the car is running where fuse 3 has it at both accessories & run positions of the ignition switch. What year is your car as Haynes states differences for nearly ever year for what runs off fuse 1 although none list the cooling fans as they run directly off the shunt box though. Fuse #2 does the heater blower. If you have access to a fuse box you know work, try that but check a connector hasn't come off the fuseboard that feeds to fuse #1 or an immobiliser isn't breaking the circuit. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Walker 0 Posted April 10, 2007 (edited) Fuse 1 will only have 12v showing there with the ignition on as if the car is running where fuse 3 has it at both accessories & run positions of the ignition switch. What year is your car as Haynes states differences for nearly ever year for what runs off fuse 1 although none list the cooling fans as they run directly off the shunt box though. Fuse #2 does the heater blower. If you have access to a fuse box you know work, try that but check a connector hasn't come off the fuseboard that feeds to fuse #1 or an immobiliser isn't breaking the circuit. Graham. it's a 1988 'E' reg. The wiring diagram in Haynes that most closely resembles the wiring in the car is diagram 1b for XU5J/JA and XU9JA models. I can't see any problems with the fuseboard anywhere but i'm sceptical about the immobiliser although the car still turns over? I'm not sure how to check problems with the immobiliser but there is a wire that I found loose which goes from the instrument cluster area and went down into the passenger footwell. It's a black wire that doesn't look standard Peugeot and has a spade connector similar to what you'd find on an ECU and a small aerial type hard copper wire coming out of it.... Edited April 10, 2007 by Mike Walker Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Walker 0 Posted April 11, 2007 (edited) Here is a link to another related thread I have running for anyone who is a kind hearted and clever headed soul! http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=73036&hl= It explains about the history of the fault. Edited April 11, 2007 by pugtorque Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
