sorr 0 Posted April 6, 2007 Can you change an Mi cam belt without moving the tensioner on the exhaust side? As you may have guessed the allen headed screw is stuck and I am sure it will round off if I try any more force on it. Before anybody mentions it I am not replacing the tensioners as they are brand new and the only reason the belt is being changed is due to a faulty crank oil seal. Once this is done I might finally have a 205 that does not leak oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted April 6, 2007 It would be very difficult I think as the run round the exhaust tensioner usually seems tighter than the inlet tensioner (I think you'd get away with it if it was this one). I'd recommend trying to undo it and replacing it with a regular hex-head bolt which I think it was Peugeot did. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huzzer 0 Posted April 6, 2007 I just did mine today. All you need to do is remove the inlet pulley. Slip the old belt off, the new one on and refit the pulley. The cam has a tendency to move out of line so remove the distributor and there is a torx bolt inside which you can use to turn the cam back to line up the slot on the pulley. The belt should be just as tight, if not tighter than before. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted April 7, 2007 I agree with Chris, it might be possible but to get it done properly having both free would be a better plan. Without them both loose it would be a tight fit on the back side with the possibility of getting the timing a tooth out on one cam. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taylorspug 7 Posted April 8, 2007 Also worth mentioning that the timing on MIs has to be literally spot on for them to work right. And the fine tuning of the timing is dictated by the tensioners! Id never recommend doing a cambelt on an MI without locking pins for the cams and crank, even the slightest half a degree out will affect performance. I know its a pain but id just get the old bolt out of the tensioner as people have already said, and then replace both bolts with hex head items. Those bloody allen headed bolts are forever rounding off, they are too soft and the allen head is too shallow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz 421 Posted April 9, 2007 Aren't they just!! Try using a spline keys to get rounded off hex's out. Worked a treat for me yesterday on the flywheel cover bolts on a 4bie engine/box, after being recommended them by a friend, a bit of a monkey job i thought, but got them undone! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorr 0 Posted April 9, 2007 Aren't they just!! Try using a spline keys to get rounded off hex's out. Worked a treat for me yesterday on the flywheel cover bolts on a 4bie engine/box, after being recommended them by a friend, a bit of a monkey job i thought, but got them undone! That is how I got the lower one out . But I can't get at the exhaust side one to hammer on the spline key . I wish I had known about the design change before I put the engine back in the car. Just off to garage now to have one last try before I pull the engine back out the car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorr 0 Posted April 9, 2007 For all those with the misfortune of having the allen key bolts this is how I got the exhaust side tensioner off. Put an allen key in the tensioner bolt. Use a long screw driver as a lever to make sure the allen key stays home. then with your other hand use a trolley jack handle as an allen key extension and off it will pop! Although it was surprising how much force it took to get it loose given it was not torqued that high when I built the engine. Then make sure you buy the redesigned bolts from Pug, part # 6923 78 and are just over £1. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
