Starter Motors And Heatsoak

[Justin 9]

I recent starting using my 205 Mi again after several months in winter storage.

I put a decent battery on it and it started first time with no problems. For a week or so everything with it has been fine. I have done about 750 miles of mixed driving in it and never had a problem.

 

The car has had a new standard Mi starter motor (recon) about a year ago, at which time I re-made all the connections to it. With a new battery 6 months ago everything seems to have been working fine.

 

Yesterday, in the warm afternoon sun, after doing about 40 miles from cold and having stood for an hour in the sun the car wouldn't start. I had 12.6V at the battery but when I turned the key I got nothing - not even a click - except a dimming of the lights as you'd expect. I bump started the car and drove it around for 10 minutes (still quite warm ambient temp). Pulled back on the driveway, cut the ignition and tried to restart - nothing.

 

Went indoors, waited a couple of hours or so and then tried again - car started no problems. Drove 80 miles to bath along the M4. Got to Bath, stopped to open the gate, tried to restart the hot car and nothing. Bumped it, parked up for the night and it started first time this morning from cold.

 

Is heat soak ever an issue for these starters??

 

Thanks,

 

Justin.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

I feel for you and have only just been through pretty much exactly the same.

 

I cannot say specifically what your fault is, however I can hazard a guess based on what I had to do to fix mine, which now spins over like crazy and I actually enjoy (rather than fear) going back to it at the petrol pumps to start it and drive away; been push started off around 5 times recently.

 

From what I hear, from 2 forum members now, the starter/solenoid combo as they age soak up heat from the engine and basically stick - hence I replaced mine (like you have) with a recon combo.

 

Now that worked initially, but the problem returned (more Esso forecourt pushing ). Then I heard that the main positive batt-solenoid-alternator charge wire can break down due to age and heat next to the block. This is/was logical as it would reduce the voltage/current available to start the car, hence a new/freshly charged battery would work initially but then not have the guts from lack of charging and ability to pass current to the motor.

 

As it's a radiator out job for me, I put on a new, known battery, doubled up new wires between the 3 components above AND a 70ah recon alternator.

 

Hey presto, however not surpisingly it's all fixed. Why wouldn't it; I've replaced the key items?

 

My conclusion in hindsight boils down basically to the alternator being weak. The original under load was producing 12.7V at the battery, but the new one is 14.3v .

 

Whilst a weak alternator I think caused the weak battery and hence the odd starting problems, I believe the other components, the wires inbetween AND the heat-affected starter, all conspired to create the problem and also, ultimately killed the alternator. I would suggest you consider doing same, just to eliminate it.

 

Rich

 

P.S. Also please check your main earth cable from the battery to the top of the gearbox.

[jackherer 543]

corroded wiring is the most likely cause.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

corroded wiring is the most likely cause.

 

Jack uses 7 words when I use 657.

 

Bit of a bummer though if you have to take the rad out to replace the wires, to then only find the problem reoccur due to the possibility of a weak alternator - that was my point.

 

EDIT: In fact you're local, I'm off work, so perhaps I could help you out with extra hands?

Edited April 6, 2007 by DrSarty

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Use the 406 type starter motor as they are 100% better and lighter, never had a problem with these compared to the Bosch, Dec, Hella big bodied ones,

I bet when the old ones go back for Recon and they work all they do is clean them up and ship them back out again, I used to have a direct connection to the battery on a very old 309 which if it went clicky I used to use the wire, The car at the time was just over 2 yr's old

[lagonda 42]

I had the same trouble with my CTi a couple of times when it was really hot, just after I got it back on the road after nearly 2 years. Not been a problem since, only thing I did was to clean up main earth connection to gearbox, which probably wasn't the cause as it was already pretty clean & tight ... so you might find it'll sort itself with use.

One thing I would say is I did have starter trouble when I first got the car, mainly down to brown multiplug corrosion ... but also I found the main battery terminal to the starter was pretty well burnt through. Hardly surprising because it was a crappy steel terminal. Steel, renowned as a poor conductor, what planet are Peugeot on? Fortunately I had a decent brass one lying around & fitted that.

[saveloy 8]

I have an annoying issue with my starter at the moment too.

The previous one went well for far longer than expected. In the past, I replaced the battery - starter - alternator cable with a nice thick jobby. Minimal voltage drop and a few extra revs on the starter motor.

The new starter is a month old and occasionally clicks and fails to spin. And it will only do that after a run.

Now, the cabling is fine, as is the battery. So I can only assume it's a problematic starter.