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dch1950

The Length Of Those Pesky Unions

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dch1950

Hi,

Having succeeded in getting a lifetime ban from Autofive (terminal sarcasm was the quoted diagnosis.!!)

I have had to look for a ready made brakepipe supplier. The question I have is how long is short and how short is long?

I.e I am looking at the unions for the 4 wheel end pipes - the 2 rears from the flex to wheelcylinder,and the 2 fronts from the M/C to each front flex. I will be replacing the O/E flexes with Goodridge's.

So does it make any difference whether or not I specify the long or the short 10mm unions.

Will be using brake-part.

Weathers nice today so will be tempted to get the axle stands out.

regards

Dave

:)

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GLPoomobile

I got my brake pipes from Automec upon a recomendation from a few people here (I think they are called Automec. It was a while ago!).

 

Good service, good prices and they know what you need.

 

Tell us more about the Autofive ban though. I need a laugh!

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dch1950
I got my brake pipes from Automec upon a recomendation from a few people here (I think they are called Automec. It was a while ago!).

 

Good service, good prices and they know what you need.

 

Tell us more about the Autofive ban though. I need a laugh!

I have posted my experience of A5 already.I think the guy who answers the phone is thick.

My second contact last week was about rear brake lines. I never got these though (due to said sarcasm on my part).My general point is that this firm doesn't deserve to be recommended by this forum (whether they pay for ads or not I don't know or care). They don't confirm what you've ordered,can't seem to give you acceptable delivery dates (without you having to chase them after you realise what you've ordered it's not coming,No order no's issued etc,etc,etc, To survive in this e-commerce world good and efficient service is required and a5 don't provide that (not in my experience anyway).When put up against a great little firm like Vehicle wiring products - also cited by me on Misc/general section then there's no comparison.A5 seem to just think we're mugs and as such I told them so.

regards

Dave

:)

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GLPoomobile

And so they have banned you? Top man!!

 

And I bet you are soooo bothered, eh!

 

They've had stupid hih prices for far too long, and now it sounds like their service has become pitiful, so they clearly don't deserve any custom. I'm surprised they get any business to be frank, as it's so damn easy to find what you want on eBay anyway.

 

Oh, and just to add, when I called them for an engine mount a year or two back, I asked for the club discount and the ignorant wee twat asked someone else in the back ground and then said they don't do it. I can't remember if that was the forum discount or the PGAC discount though.

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dch1950
And so they have banned you? Top man!!

 

And I bet you are soooo bothered, eh!

 

They've had stupid hih prices for far too long, and now it sounds like their service has become pitiful, so they clearly don't deserve any custom. I'm surprised they get any business to be frank, as it's so damn easy to find what you want on eBay anyway.

 

Oh, and just to add, when I called them for an engine mount a year or two back, I asked for the club discount and the ignorant wee twat asked someone else in the back ground and then said they don't do it. I can't remember if that was the forum discount or the PGAC discount though.

cheers bro

:)

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dch1950

Hi,

I've already read this thread and it discusses lengths, I have already checked these against the stated parts sizes for a 1.6 and all I can do is confirm them as accurate.(depending on how accurate a bootlace is).

I have also deduced that all 4 pipes are Male/male ends.What I can't tell without taking the pipes off the car is the length of the unions. I asked the guy at brake-pipe and he could only say that as far as he knew the gti used BN3 unions (10mm/1mm's - short). I know I should rely more on what suppliers say but experience proves that caution is best as once the old pipes are cut you're stuffed.

regards

Dave

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Guest velocity raptor
Hi,

I've already read this thread and it discusses lengths, I have already checked these against the stated parts sizes for a 1.6 and all I can do is confirm them as accurate.(depending on how accurate a bootlace is).

I have also deduced that all 4 pipes are Male/male ends.What I can't tell without taking the pipes off the car is the length of the unions. I asked the guy at brake-pipe and he could only say that as far as he knew the gti used BN3 unions (10mm/1mm's - short). I know I should rely more on what suppliers say but experience proves that caution is best as once the old pipes are cut you're stuffed.

regards

Dave

 

 

if you go to a good car parts place you can pick up all the kit you need to reline the whole car for £30, 2 rolls of pipe, box of nuts and a flaring tool and make yer own

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dch1950
if you go to a good car parts place you can pick up all the kit you need to reline the whole car for £30, 2 rolls of pipe, box of nuts and a flaring tool and make yer own

I agree entirely,but as I am currently in rented accomodation and don't particularly like gravel rash I thought that getting some ready mades would be easier. What I do deduce is that nobody knows the answer to my question even though you all seem to make your own.(?) Also as this is usually a one-off I can see rolls of pipe,flaring kits and boxes of nuts littering garages all over the country - neigh the world.

have a happy Easter.

Dave

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mossy

Hi All

I've just replaced all my brake lines, inc flexi's and the master cylinder. Its an easy job just time consuming as to do the job properly you need to drop the rear beam and petrol tank. I did it in a day, but did have the tools handy ie flairing tool (Drapper) don't buy a cheap one!! and an ezee bleed kit which you connect to a spare wheel, this pressurises the brake system with brake fluid and makes bleeding childs play.

 

Drain your brake system then remove all pipes. Measure the pipes cut new pipe to length. Fit male/female connections and flair.

 

Job done.

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dch1950
Hi All

I've just replaced all my brake lines, inc flexi's and the master cylinder. Its an easy job just time consuming as to do the job properly you need to drop the rear beam and petrol tank. I did it in a day, but did have the tools handy ie flairing tool (Drapper) don't buy a cheap one!! and an ezee bleed kit which you connect to a spare wheel, this pressurises the brake system with brake fluid and makes bleeding childs play.

 

Drain your brake system then remove all pipes. Measure the pipes cut new pipe to length. Fit male/female connections and flair.

 

Job done.

cheers dude,

I've bought myself a litre of Dot4 and hope that will be enough.Is there a recognised method of getting ALL the old fluid out of the system or do you just let it drain out.

Also I take it the chassis side flex connection at the rear is not easily accessible. (and don't tell me you find out when you do it.!) Will a drop down of the axle on the trolley jack be ok or does it have to drop clear of the studs.

Seems to be 2 schools of thought about bleeding though - 2 man or Gunson, and to think this job started as "I think I'll just check the handbrake adjustment" - marvellous .......

regards

Dave

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Guest velocity raptor
cheers dude,

I've bought myself a litre of Dot4 and hope that will be enough.Is there a recognised method of getting ALL the old fluid out of the system or do you just let it drain out.

Also I take it the chassis side flex connection at the rear is not easily accessible. (and don't tell me you find out when you do it.!) Will a drop down of the axle on the trolley jack be ok or does it have to drop clear of the studs.

Seems to be 2 schools of thought about bleeding though - 2 man or Gunson, and to think this job started as "I think I'll just check the handbrake adjustment" - marvellous .......

regards

Dave

 

 

just flush the fluid till the new stuff runs clear, or whatever colour it is and the jobs a lot easier to drop the tank at the rear you can get to the flexi unions between the torsion bar and axle tube a bit fiddly but a lot easier than dropping beam. i had a head start with mine i needed to replace ALL the pipes and the master so no fluid at all. dropping tank is also fairly easy best way is to disconnect wires from the top,(under rear seats) undo filler pipe lower jubilee clip. un bolt the tank and force down with lever bars, its a tight fit!!! and undo pipes bingo done. Oh and youll be able to see the bloody rust thats behind the tank and treat it while your there as they rot a bit there and need a bit of underseal to help prevent it

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inferno

with regards to long and short unions, i generally reuse the unions i take off when making my pipes.

 

also ive found that clamping the unions with a good set of mole grips, followed be a sharp tap to free them, works better than a pipe spanner when theres rust evident. once cracked off they can be worked loose with spanner and be in good enough shape to reuse.

 

the union block under the beam (when i did mine for the mot) was a total pig to get on, but wasnt a bad job in the end.

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Turbo7379

If you're replacing fluid its you should suck out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir ( I use a 20cc syringe ) , fill it up with fresh fluid & bleed the pipes out in turn until fresh fluid appears at the caliper .

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sonofsam
cheers dude,

I've bought myself a litre of Dot4 and hope that will be enough.Is there a recognised method of getting ALL the old fluid out of the system or do you just let it drain out.

Also I take it the chassis side flex connection at the rear is not easily accessible. (and don't tell me you find out when you do it.!) Will a drop down of the axle on the trolley jack be ok or does it have to drop clear of the studs.

Seems to be 2 schools of thought about bleeding though - 2 man or Gunson, and to think this job started as "I think I'll just check the handbrake adjustment" - marvellous .......

regards

Dave

 

No need to drop the tank or the beam, just use a lever bar incased in an old bicycle tube rubber to push the pipe up.

Used a Gunson eazibleed this morning actually, finally got rid off all the air that the two man method couldn't

As regards to refilling, just let gravity do it's piece to begin with ;)

You will have alot of air in system by the way refilling from new!

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pug_ham

If you want new unions the short ones should be fine, they are what I've used before with no problems.

 

Graham.

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