Oh, So French

[Pug_101 0]

Just had to refit the oil pressure sensor on my Gti because it was leaking.

Nut on the inside of the sensor, large head on the sensor, no access for a 19mm spanner let alone my hand

Thank you Mr frenchy designer.

[Ahl 4]

Thats funny, because I managed to replace mine no problem at all.

 

And that part was probably designed by a brit.

[Sy_ 0]

19mm deep socket?

[jim21070 2]

If you mean the oil pressure gauge sender then the easiest way to get it out is to use a long drift and a hammer and carefully tap it out. There are even indentations to take a drift!

 

The reverse procedure can be (gently) used to install the new one. They do not have to be mega-tight. Else, fabricate a thin spanner from a bit of sheet steel.

 

One rule on any PSA vehicle: However bloody impossible a job at first looks, it is just doable somehow. A good head-scratch and a cuppa reveals all normally. You realise someone, with a warped mind admittedly, DID think about servicing and repairs.

 

If it is really difficult go to bed and chances are, you'll dream a solution.

[welshpug 1,657]

but amusingly enought most of the sensors used are either german or italian just put in odd places by a deranged frenchman

 

at least the routine servicing parts are "relatively" easy to get to...

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

but amusingly enought most of the sensors used are either german or italian just put in odd places by a deranged frenchman

 

Or woman!

 

Gotta be P.C. these days. Like dustbin trucks (council refuse vehicles probably), now saying 'Operatives at Rear' instead of just 'Men Working'.

 

On this awkward bit subject, had to replace my starter/solenoid, alternator and associated wiring last weekend. How many other cars need you to remove the slam panel, drain the cooling system and remove the radiator for this relatively basic task? ...... .....

Edited April 6, 2007 by DrSarty

[Ahl 4]

On this awkward bit subject, had to replace my starter/solenoid, alternator and associated wiring last weekend. How many other cars need you to remove the slam panel, drain the cooling system and remove the radiator for this relatively basic task? ...... .....

Its a big engine in a small car.

But its not that small an engine bay - you don't need to do any of that to replace the starter and alternator!

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Isn't the oil pressure sender either a 15mm or 16mm spanner?

 

Either that or if you are replacing it a set of swan neck pliers work perfectly. Go from undrneath & access isn't all that bad.

 

Like Ahl says, starter or alternator are easily doable without removing the rad, thats the wimps (or apprentice's) way.

 

Graham.

Graham.

[Pug_101 0]

Isn't the oil pressure sender either a 15mm or 16mm spanner?

 

Either that or if you are replacing it a set of swan neck pliers work perfectly. Go from undrneath & access isn't all that bad.

 

 

Mines a 19mm nut and deffo a spanner only job. Got it on a bit (enough?), but would like to put some more torque on it.

I'll have to get a photo or two up.

I take it the sensors in the right place and cannot be changed for oil warning sensor? I ask this as the sensor sits in a hollow where the warning sensor is proud.

Funny thing is the best way to get at it is from the top through the intake manifold gap between cylinders 2 and 3, but of course you can't then turn the spanner enough for the next flat on the nut .

Does a bicycle spanner have a 19mm on it, I've got one somewhere.

 

Cheers

[ste996 0]

Isn't the oil pressure sender either a 15mm or 16mm spanner?

 

Either that or if you are replacing it a set of swan neck pliers work perfectly. Go from undrneath & access isn't all that bad.

 

Like Ahl says, starter or alternator are easily doable without removing the rad, thats the wimps (or apprentice's) way.

 

Graham.

Graham.

 

Do tell , got to get at my solenoid soon and not that keen on taking all those bits off if there is an easier way.

[Ahl 4]

To get the starter motor out:

Take off the throttle body and attached induction pipe (and perhaps the oil filler if you need to).

 

Undo the starter motor bolts, attachments etc from above/below, whatever is easiest. (Be careful with the positive connector).

 

Remove starter motor through space where the throttle body was, being careful not to hit the radiator.

 

 

Another tip, if the starter motor has a bracket on its rear end, leave it off when refitting the motor. A lot of refurb starters don't come with the attachments for this bracket and it doesn't seem to make any difference without it. And its a pain in the arse to fit.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Mines a 19mm nut and deffo a spanner only job. Got it on a bit (enough?), but would like to put some more torque on it.

I'll have to get a photo or two up.

I take it the sensors in the right place and cannot be changed for oil warning sensor? I ask this as the sensor sits in a hollow where the warning sensor is proud.

They can't be crossed over on the block, the thread is a different size.

 

My pressure sender's have all been 17mm, the short spanner is great.

 

Graham.

[brianthemagical 1]

i found taking the alternator off and going in that way was the easiest.

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

Not arguing here boys, but when I think about it, the rad way sounds bad but is probably just as time consuming as removing the AFM and, particularly if (like mine) the bracket was fitted to the starter, being hampered by awkward angles and grazing your knuckles etc. Equally so with removing the alternator.

 

I say, might as well pop the grill off (3 screws), whip off the slam panel (4 bolts), 2 jubilee clips and a nice cuppa whilst the coolant is caught draining and lift the rad out. Then you've got all the space in the world....well nearly, as the inlet plenum (if not using carbs/TBs) obscures the solenoid a little, to work quite easily instead of breaking your wrists. Will always be my chosen method having tried the other, simpler sounding method(s).

 

The very definition of 6 of 1 and 1/2 a dozen of the other I reckon.

Edited April 7, 2007 by DrSarty

[ablister 31]

One rule on any PSA vehicle: However bloody impossible a job at first looks, it is just doable somehow. A good head-scratch and a cuppa reveals all normally. You realise someone, with a warped mind admittedly, DID think about servicing and repairs.

 

If it is really difficult go to bed and chances are, you'll dream a solution.

 

 

that's a good one, if only that were true...

[Pug_101 0]

Well this is what I've got fitted to my motor (think it's a Bosch part).

 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/1230384/DSCF1458.JPG

 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/1230384/DSCF1459.JPG

 

And the mess it's caused.

 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-11/1230384/DSCF1460.JPG

 

and yes there's going to be a bird cull around here soon

Cheers

 

P.S. how do I do thumbnails?

Edited April 9, 2007 by pugtorque

[Ahl 4]

The very definition of 6 of 1 and 1/2 a dozen of the other I reckon.

Sorry to get off topic again, but no. You are dismantling half your car and draining the coolant etc in order to do a fairly simple job.

[Grim.Badger 15]

You can squeeze the big bosch starter motor between the inlet manifold and oil filter (without oil cooler)/alternator on the 8v, therefore not having to remove anything iirc. At most you might have to remove the alternator but I can't quite remember if I took it off or not.

The newer Valeo 16v starters can be fitted any way you like

 

Both oil pressure sensors I've got have 19mm nuts on but I think I've seen them with 17mm as well. They really aren't done up tight as standard, you can almost undo them by hand.

[pugrallye 0]

Rich (Dr. S) is on about an Mi not an 8 valve, and when he was doing it it was hammering it down with rain

Edited April 10, 2007 by pugrallye

[Grim.Badger 15]

Rich (Dr. S) is on about an Mi not an 8 valve, and when he was doing it it was hammering it down with rain

 

I knew that but have no experiance of the alloy block Mi. On the steel block it looks like it could be done though if anyone was daft enough to fit a chunky starter to it.

 

I didn't expect the Mi inlet to be that different in shape/size to the 8v to make it impossible, if you remove the oil filter it should be doable anyway.

[pugrallye 0]

It is entirely possible to remove the starter without taking anything off bar the throttle body, but... its horses for courses some people prefer different methods, I have been 'on the tools' for over fifteen years professionally and even professionals adopt the two different approaches of working around or removing, depending upon preference

 

But back to post its quite easy to remove your oil senders without removing anything just using spanners or grips from underneath hell even my missus replaced her own pressure sender and she isnt exactly mechanically minded

Edited April 10, 2007 by pugrallye

[Pug_101 0]

It is entirely possible to remove the starter without taking anything off bar the throttle body, but... its horses for courses some people prefer different methods, I have been 'on the tools' for over fifteen years professionally and even professionals adopt the two different approaches of working around or removing, depending upon preference

 

But back to post its quite easy to remove your oil senders without removing anything just using spanners or grips from underneath hell even my missus replaced her own pressure sender and she isnt exactly mechanically minded

 

Don't you find the remote oil cooler and pas get in the way from underneath?

I couldn't even see mine from underneath, that why there's no photo from that angle in my earlier post.

 

Also going back to how tight they are fitted, mine has a copper washer on it and that was not deformed, therefore not tight enough ever

 

Cheers

[pugrallye 0]

Everything gets in the way, lol, and i guess knowing where it lives by feel and how the flanks of the nut are aligned plays a big part on whether or not you can get a purchase with a spanner. What I was saying is we all have our own ways of tackling jobs, and there is no right or wrong way of doing it, its just how comfortable you are doing it the way you know, and what tools you have to hand.

I think someone a while ago did produce some image shots of the two sensors from below, as it was you guys who helped her change it ( i was away with work).

Edited April 10, 2007 by pugrallye

[Sy_ 0]

I totally agree with this:

Don't you find the remote oil cooler and pas get in the way from underneath?

Which is why the next gti it I buy will have no 'extras' at all.

 

Back to the subject though, my current oil pressure sender looks like the one in Pug_101's post with a large black ring of flats (probably 45mm ish accross flats) at the base of the large section, and I'm having trouble getting off. Any tips appreciated.

 

The replacement (Motaquip) part looks like this:

with the hex on the much smaller section nearer the thread. Thread is 10mm OD, and AF measurement is 17mm. That's assuming I've got the right part of course.....

[pugrallye 0]

? how have you a metric measurement in imperial?

Do you have a 17mm hex on the base of the sender?

Moon spanners are v. v. handy

Edited April 11, 2007 by pugrallye