joni 0 Posted March 14, 2007 i want to remove the stub axles from a 1.6 gti drum brake rear beam to put them onto a 309 gti disc brake rear beam (as i want to fit drums to this axle). Obviously, I don't want to damage the stub axles. What are my chances?! p.s. heat isn't really an option but i've got plenty of wd40 and an old nut to try and protect the end of the stub axles a bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16 67 Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) i want to remove the stub axles from a 1.6 gti drum brake rear beam to put them onto a 309 gti disc brake rear beam (as i want to fit drums to this axle). Obviously, I don't want to damage the stub axles. What are my chances?! p.s. heat isn't really an option but i've got plenty of wd40 and an old nut to try and protect the end of the stub axles a bit. This is how I've done it the last times, without damaging the threads at all. First screw the nut onto the threads, and tighten it so it bottoms out on the axle. Then get an approx 3-5mm thick piece of steel that'll fit on top of the stub axle, last time I used one of the offset-washers from the torsionbars on the rear beam, which seemed to work very well. Then put the 32mm hex-socket on top off it all, the socket will be sitting stable due to the nut that's already on, so then just use a small sledgehammer on top of the 32mm socket. The washer between stub-axle and socket will protect the stub axle from beeing damaged. Earlier I've used other methods, but have had problems with stub axle getting too deformed on the end, so the nut wouldn't undo without andle grinder action, but with the new method that's never happened yet. And I really would just heat the stub-axle housing for a little while with a small propane burner so make it a little bit easier to get it out. Shouldn't be any hassle at all. Edited March 14, 2007 by B1ack_Mi16 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joni 0 Posted March 14, 2007 Then get an approx 3-5mm thick piece of steel that'll fit on top of the stub axle, last time I used one of the offset-washers from the torsionbars on the rear beam, which seemed to work very well. Then put the 32mm hex-socket on top off it all, the socket will be sitting stable due to the nut that's already on, so then just use a small sledgehammer on top of the 32mm socket. The washer between stub-axle and socket will protect the stub axle from beeing damaged. Thanks for this, htink you've saved me some problems. Slightly confused by the fitting of the 'washer'. Do you mean place it on to the stub axle shaft and push it up against the nut? Is its purpose to allow the socket to butt up against something flat before you hit it? Only got a standard hammer - its quite heavy so fingers crossed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16 67 Posted March 14, 2007 (edited) Thanks for this, htink you've saved me some problems. Slightly confused by the fitting of the 'washer'. Do you mean place it on to the stub axle shaft and push it up against the nut? Is its purpose to allow the socket to butt up against something flat before you hit it? Only got a standard hammer - its quite heavy so fingers crossed. The washer is just ment to lie between the socket and the end of the stub-axle. The nut is tightened fully down on the stub axle threads and will actually not be in contact with the washer or socket at all, just place the washer on the end of stub axle and then put the socket onto it. Is its purpose to allow the socket to butt up against something flat before you hit it? Yes that's the point, as if you don't have the washer in between I would guess the end of the stub axle can get quite damaged, as the socket got a square hole through it and will just hit the outer parts of stub-axle. I've found if you put the nut just partially onto the threads and starts bashing it, that will actually very often damage the threads. Edited March 14, 2007 by B1ack_Mi16 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taylorspug 7 Posted March 14, 2007 I always just hit the end of the stub axle, its not threaded all the way to the end and ive yet to damage one by using this method. Just make sure you use a copper ended mallet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted March 14, 2007 Replied to your other topic before I saw this one. http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...st&p=665111 Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16 67 Posted March 14, 2007 I always just hit the end of the stub axle, its not threaded all the way to the end and ive yet to damage one by using this method. Just make sure you use a copper ended mallet. I used to do it this way too, but as Graham has experienced I've also had problems with the non threaded end on the stub-axle becoming too deformed to get the hub nut back on, although after some angle grinder action it would work. Maybe the copper mallet is the trick, anyway my described method also works with steel sledgehammers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
taylorspug 7 Posted March 15, 2007 Yeah ive never tried it with a steel hammer, but id imagine it would deform quite easily, certainly with the copper mallet the ends look perfect and undamaged. The key with it seems to be giving it one almighty whack first to get it moving, then it comes out easy. I use a 6lb copper mallet for reference, good tool! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joni 0 Posted March 16, 2007 Piece of p*ss! Black MI16 you have the answer it worked so easily on all 4 stub axles (2 rear beams). The only thinig i did differently is put a socket over the thread instead of a washer. I found 15/16ths imperial worked perfectly if you have one! Cheers for all the help. Rear beam fitted - now another problem - see new thread! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
