Longfield 0 Posted March 4, 2007 (edited) Hi Y'all. I'm Al. I've got 4 boxes at the moment. Two BE 1, 1.9's, a BE 3 1.6 that's looks brand new [after a shed load of decreasing, scrubbing, priming and paintain] and an Mi16 box. that's due to arrive tomorrow. Now.... I want to put the Kaaz diff in the BE3 1.6 box and I want to add the 4.4 CWP into it out of the Mi box as well. But I have a few questions that I'd really appreciate some help with please! 1. Can I just put in the 4.4 CW into the BE3 1.6 box directly or do I need to strip the box and add the pinion as well? 2. What do I need to torque the bolts to when bolting the CW to the new diff? 3. [i haven't tried it yet so this might be a dumb question] but can I just push the new diff bearings I have straight onto the new diff or will I need a special tool? 4. When I take the diff off the diff housing, there isn't a gasket as such but a silokine sealent type stuff - what is this stuff called and where do I get it from. Also, what do I retorque the bolts to when puting the diff housing back on the box? 5. One of the boxes I have I'm keeping as a practice box so I can learn how to strip a box and rebuild it [as in the future I want to buy a non-syncro box kit and fit it myself]. But... I can't figure how to break the actual box apart! Can someone please guide me? I'd love to do a photographic strip your box section... so to speak. At the moment I've taken the diff housing off, taken off the very end cap of the gearbox, taken out the gear selector rod, undon the clip that holds the brass like c-shaped gear selector in place, taken out the roll pin in the c-shaped thing's rod, but still can't take any of the gears out! I've taken the box to my local garage and they tell me I've got to take the star-like [12 sharp pointed] bolts off the gear wheels that I can now see at the end of the box cover. But I've tried a 25, 26, 27, 28, 29 and 30mm rachet sockets and none seem to fit. I've been told a need a 12 pointed rachet socket but what size should I get? And, when I've undone those bolts what's the next step for stripping the gearbox and takeing the gears out? Will I need a gear puller?? All help is appreciated on this as I really want to learn!!! Thank's all! Al Edited March 4, 2007 by Longfield Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mi16nut 0 Posted March 4, 2007 Have a look at this: http://www.rallyparts.co.uk/cwp_change/ Older haynes manuals have a section on stripping a gearbox as well. The Mi 4.4 crown wheel will need the pinion gear to work & that involves a full strip down. Mark. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Longfield 0 Posted March 5, 2007 Mark thanks for this mate. A great link. Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
philfingers 5 Posted March 9, 2007 (edited) Ok, the 1.6 doesn't have the best ratios, you should use a 1.9, the gap between first to second is closer on the 1.9. The 4.4 is a great diff, well final drive to be correct. It'll give you around 110mph at the redline in 5th (8v). You will need to drift or press the bearings on. I used a mallet and a piece of roll cage offcut I think, or could have been an old socket to knock them on my Tran X I would use Hylomar sealant (blue stuff) BUT put it on with a tiny airfix kit type of paint brush so you can just put a thin coat on. If you you put in on straight out the tube you'll have far too much. Put some around the bolts that go it too. Check the manual for torque figures Ok, it's a bit too much to give you a step by step guide BUT. .. . You can get away with out pullers, if you have a large vice to hold the 4/5th (I think it is- the only two together on the final drive/pinion shaft) gear in while you knock the pinion (final drive) shaft out with a big lump hammer. BUT protect the end of the shaft with some aluminium, to prevent damaging it. You also need circlip pliers, pin punches, screwdrivers etc. To get the 12 pointed star 'nuts' off you should see that they're 'peeled' over to stop them coming undone. You can use a small chisel to give some clearance. To undo them (stop them rotating) you could insert some slithers of Aluminium between the gears to jam them and stop them rotating. It's not a difficult job, the final drives between BE1 and 3 are interchangeable. It's the selection mechanism that is really different. Phil Edited March 9, 2007 by philfingers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
