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Dan57

Little Oops Regarding The Rev Counter.

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Dan57

Today was spent finishing off a few little jobs getting the 205 ready for it's MOT. To cut a very long story short I've cranked the engine with the ignition coil lead disconnected from the coil. I heard the high voltage click, click and then thought $?#t. Now the rev counter is stuck at 500 rpm. Does this now mean that I need to search for another one?? I assume it doesn't like 20'000 volts. I took a long shot and checked the fuses but all appears good. Any help or advice gratefully received.

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Guest BrainFluid

Dunno but it wont affect the car getting an MOT or not.

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brianthemagical

have you had the engine connected/running in a manner that would make the rev counter work but it doesn't move? if not then the best thing i found for zeroing it is to take the plastic front off the dash then turn the needle, it will/idle to/at what ever you like then.

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jackherer

check the fuse in the glovebox first....

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pug_ham

The rev counter needle sits at approx 500 rpm when its switched off so it is likely you've blown the fuse.

3822DSCF2174.jpg

 

Graham.

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Dan57

Thanks Graham. Thats exactly what it looks like. Is that normal for it sit at 500 rpm when switched off then? I have had the engine running but the rev counter just sits at 500 rpm even when revved.

Any idea which fuse it is? I have no fuse designation chart or such like. I have visually checked the fuses but they all look pretty crappy but don't appear blown. Perhaps I should replace them all?

Edited by Dan57

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Dan57

I think I have found what I have done wrong. I have been browsing some old posts and found out the if the clock is removed then the rev counter stops working. True??? If this is the case I have removed mine and all of it's wiring. DOH!!! I obviously will have to run a new wire from somewhere to somewhere else. Any ides where to start?

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Guest smokinslim

Have you got a haynes manual? If so they have wiring diagrams in the back and you can trace where all the connections go with some effort. Failing that i can scan the relevant pages of mine if you wish.

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Craigb

fuse 1

 

also covers the reversing lights on mine

 

clock is off fuse 7 on mine

 

 

reading from left to right

 

1 to 14

Edited by Craigb

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Dan57

Right I have replaced all of the fuses as they were all a bit old and manky. I've checked the wiring diagram that I have and it looks like I have removed a feed for the rev counter. I noticed the oil temperature gauge not working too. Wire 13a I beleive. My wiring diagram shouw this going back to the fuse box but I have been through all the wiring I have removed from the car and 13a joins 13b at the clock. Presumably 13b then goes to the fuse box??? (I can't find the other end of 13b.) I think my best bet is to run a new wire from the instument cluster to the fuse box. Does anyone know where this wire should connect 1) at the instrument cluster 2) at the fuse box. I beleive it's plug J pin 4 at the fuse box but I cant see any letters on the fusebox. Any suggestions or advise???

Edited by Dan57

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pug_ham

At the instrument cluster it should connect to the blue plug at the back of the clocks in this picture but I'm not sure what colour the wire is, blue is 112 & green/yellow is earth so I'd guess possibly the yellow wire.

 

See attached for fusebox plug locations.

 

Graham.

post-71-1172023892.jpg

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Dan57

Many thanks again Graham. The rev counter feed was pin 1 on the blue plug on the back of the cluster and pin1 on plug J at the fuse box. I ran a new wire between the two and woohoo I have a rev counter. The oil temperature gauge still not working bu I think this must be pin 4 on the same plug on the cluster as this is also missing. A job for the weekend I think. I think I got a little over keen removing some wires. :blink:

 

Just dropped it off for it's MOT retest so fingers crossed I could soon be a proper gti driver. I can see the light. ;)

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pug_ham

Power for the rev counter (pin 1) is the white wire for future reference, the yellow one is wire 112D which isn't connected on any of the GTi clocks I've got.

 

The oil temp sender wire won't go to the rev counter plug, it'll be wired to one of the other plugs on the clocks but I don't know which one. How much have you driven the car as the oil temp guage takes at least ten minutes to start to move. The wire from the sender (in the back of the sump) is often broken as it runs down the back of the engine.

 

Graham.

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Dan57

Thanks again Graham. I put a clutch into the car yeaturday. First time I've been under the car and low and behold the oil temp sender wire is flapping around in the breeze. I haven't connected it up due to lack of time and the car no longer starts or runs. 2nd time in 2 weeks the car has left me stranded 30 miles from home. :):rolleyes:

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