Starting Mi For First Time...

[Edd-XS 0]

Right I have done a search (shock horror!), and from what ive read, it doesnt make an awful lot of difference how an engines run in, after being re-built, except to try not to exceed 4k for the first 500 miles or so, and to vary the load quite abit (engine braking, power runs in 3rd etc.)

Ive had the engine pretty much fully rebuilt by matt (quite some time ago now!) and al things going well, should be starting it tomorrow for the first time!

With everything connected ok, should i just fire it up and take it for a spin or start it and leave it idling for half hour or something? I dont intend to pay for another rebuild anytime soon so advice would be appreciated!

Thanks

Edd

[James_m 0]

Crank it to get oil pressure before you actually run it, There is probably any easier way to cut the fueling, maybe a fuse? but ive got the injectors disconnected.

I cant offer any advice on running in, but pumaracing posted some intresting stuff about it which seems to make sense to me anyway.

[ANDYGON 6]

like James say's crank it for a few turns first. i'd just pop off the ignition lead from the coil to the cap.

 

as from there i'd just drive it like you say but not let it idle for the 30 mins.

[Edd-XS 0]

Ok nice one, yea I didnt think leaving it to idle would be a good idea but this is all new to me after all! lol

Will remove ignition leads as andy says and fingers crossed!!

Edd

[cossie350 0]

Also don't let the engine labour for example come off a roundabout in 5th as this is worse than high revs.

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

Don't bother disconnecting an ignition lead; take the spark plugs out!!!

 

The engine will spin over quite quickly without them, with very little load on the crank and will get the oil pressure up quicky. Put the plugs back in and fire it up. (You might as well just start it up if you were to leave the plugs in IMO)

[DrSarty 90 1 Cars]

C W's advice on top of all of this could seem like a lot, but it's right. Pls allow me to sum this up, as I fired up my Mi yesterday for the first time after a top end rebuild for a modified cam. It's also what I did when I did the conversion.

 

I'm assuming that in final assembly you used a light assembly grease (such as cam lube on the cams) to coat things like cam journals, lobes and the lifters.

 

1) Visual chk of major fluids - oil & water. Even ensure you have fuel - I'd leave expansion tank cap off to start with whilst you're just running it up a little whilst stationary. The water can naturally find any cavities it didn't already fill quite quickly then and you should observe the level in the tank and top up as necessary. You'll also see the water system circulating I hope which'll show a functioning water pump.

 

2) Wipe any excess oil off things like the manifold, because, although it's unavoidable that you'll get some smoke and smells at first as it starts burning off spills, you want to increase your ability to observe all areas of the engine from above and below to check for leaks whilst it's running.

 

3) Remove the HT king lead (coil to dizzy) and also the spark plugs.

 

4) Final visual check for any non connected electricals or plumbing.

 

5) Sit in & open the driver's side window. Try and have a helper observe the engine for you, then with the clutch depressed crank it over for 10 secs or so - 2 lots of 5 secs'll be fine. This is to engage the oil circulation. Listen out for any loud "stops" from your eyeballing mucker

 

6) Look under the engine to see if those spins have caused anything to leak. If not, refit spark plugs and leads, absolutely ensuring your firing order is correct. Then reconnect HT king lead.

 

7) Check water & oil level again and start her up, again with the clutch down and your mate watching for krakatoa! It's your choice whether you squirt a little 'easy start' in thru the AFM, some experts may advise against it but I used it, as it's highly volatile and the spark plugs will ignite it really easily and reduce stress on the starter motor and battery.

 

8) You listen out for warnings and observe dash warning lights for a bit. If all is ok you can follow the rev advice I believe you already have, particularly from people like Puma who certainly know their stuff and get out of the car and have a look. You can always operate throttle from the cable/throttle body/carb.

 

9) Don't forget to do a proper cooling system bleed using the nipples , and replace the expansion tank cap. Check oil level again before driving off for first time.

 

That was just my layman's guide and summary of all the above advice in your thread.

 

Dunno if it helps, but I really think you'll find it'll all go swimmingly. Be confident.

 

Rich

Edited February 4, 2007 by DrSarty

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

If you've got a new uprated cam fitted then you don't want to turn it over for long at all, plugs in or out.

 

They have a specific bedding in procedure to harden the tips of the lobes, fire it up & run it at 2500rpm for 20-30 minutes iirc.

 

If everything is just rebuilt as standard (& old cams) the choice is yours, giving it a few 10 second bursts on the starter with the fuel pump fuse pulled will get oil into the galleries or just turn it by hand with a socket on the lower pulley bolt with the plugs out & then a quick burst once they are back in before the fuel pump fuse is refitted & you start the engine.

 

Graham.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

If you've got a new uprated cam fitted then you don't want to turn it over for long at all, plugs in or out.

 

They have a specific bedding in procedure to harden the tips of the lobes, fire it up & run it at 2500rpm for 20-30 minutes iirc.

 

is this still the case on a fully rebuilt engine??? didnt think this would do it any good.

 

also do reground cams need bedding in? al

[maxi 36 1 Cars]

Disconnect injectors (uyou dont want to be throwing a load of juice in there and not burning it!) and unplug coil pack, spin it on the key for about 30-40secs. Then reconnect everything and fire it up, do not let tit idle for the first 20 mins, keep it above 3000RPM if it has had new lifters or cams to bed them in.

 

Obivoulsy check for leaks etc on the cranking before it runs.

 

Maxi

[niklas 1]

Don't bother disconnecting an ignition lead; take the spark plugs out!!!

 

The engine will spin over quite quickly without them, with very little load on the crank and will get the oil pressure up quicky. Put the plugs back in and fire it up. (You might as well just start it up if you were to leave the plugs in IMO)

 

My idea also as I read the posts!

When there's very little oil around in the bearings, it's at least in theory not a good idea to have highly loaded bearings..

[Edd-XS 0]

Ahh ok that makes sense I guess! Been ill all weekend so am gonna have to wait another 2 weeks now till my next weekend off, arse!

Cheers for the info tho guys, much appreciated.

Edd

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

is this still the case on a fully rebuilt engine??? didnt think this would do it any good.

 

also do reground cams need bedding in? al

Its the case on any new or reground cam, turning the engine gently by the crank pulley will circulate some oil without damaging the lobes but labouring it on the starter or at low rpm (idle) will kill the cam.

 

Graham.

[allanallen 528 2 Cars]

Its the case on any new or reground cam, turning the engine gently by the crank pulley will circulate some oil without damaging the lobes but labouring it on the starter or at low rpm (idle) will kill the cam.

 

Graham.

 

so when i start my rebuilt mi with reground cams i have to hold the revs at 2k for 20mins? Is this not gonna screw up the bedding in of the rest of the engine? confused al

[jackherer 543]

so when i start my rebuilt mi with reground cams i have to hold the revs at 2k for 20mins? Is this not gonna screw up the bedding in of the rest of the engine? confused al

 

I've heard of people running in rebuilt engines on used standard cams and then swapping to new cams later. How worthwhile this is I couldn't tell you...

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

so when i start my rebuilt mi with reground cams i have to hold the revs at 2k for 20mins? Is this not gonna screw up the bedding in of the rest of the engine? confused al

yes but it shouldn't screw with anything on the bedding in of the engine as there won't be any other loads on the engine than turning the gearbox.

 

Contact the people who did your regrinds & ask them what their running in procedure is for the cams & explain it will be on a rebuilt engine.

 

Graham.

[Guest Jason1446]

When plugs are out you have to disconnect the fuel pump as well cos the ECU still puts in fuel...

 

Open to correction on this...

Edited February 8, 2007 by Jason1446

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

When I just take the plugs out, I only do that and spin it over, you see puffs of fuel come out of the plug holes but it's not a great deal.

[Martin@PRD 0]

Im amazed with all the similar answers as if it all been read before on here, well from a technicians point of view who has rebuilt MI16s regular and has to guarantee his work for 12 months, I am gob smacked no one else has said anything of below

 

1. Remove cam cover and fill engine with 4.5 litres of oil over the cams and valve train, it this will speed up filling the engine with the added benefit of lubricating the engines internals

 

2. Remove oil filter and further fill with oil, leave standing for 10 minutes for filters to soak and bubbles to disperse, pump oil (small oil can) into Oil cooler (airtype) to prime the system and then refit oil filter

 

3. Remove oil spray bar and again pump oil down the oil gallery in cam cap, until pressured is felt, allow 10 minutes for bubbles to leave the filer to come up to the top

 

4. Pump yet again the oil spray bar until oil is evident from all cam bearing feeds and cam lobe nozzles clean with pin if blocked, finally refit spray bar and cam cover

 

5. Remove spark plugs and rotate engine clock wise to prime oil pump (more the better)

 

6. Refit plugs and start engine.

 

I Personally have the car ready pointing up a road so I can immediately drive with rings under load as this is the most important time for the rings to bed in to the liners, gear changes must be a light as possible to avoid shock and engine breaking is as important using full throttle engine speed needs to be kept under 4 k but all of the rev range must be used to avoid uneven wear to bearings and journals. I drive like this for the first 30 minutes, then head back to check things are correct such as engine fluid levels, in some cases the cooling system doesnt prime it self so then needs a little helping hand of opening bleed nipples and squeezing hoses this is usually coursed by block or knackered radiators or heater matrixes, again drive the car as usual but keep it sensible for at least 100 miles, slowly progress with increasing the revs by 1k every 100 miles. Engine at this time should feel a little freer to rev once 6 rpm has been reach, its then advisable to have the engine tuned by means of a rolling road to assure fuelling is correct and power is reached

[Edd-XS 0]

Martin, thanks for the reply. How would I go about this though on a road car with no Tax or MOT? If ive got an MOT booked for later in the day, is it acceptable to be potentially caught 50 miles from home (ive gotta go back again of course!) by the police, ie, are there clauses in the rules and regulations of road legalness that allow the car to be driven with no tax or mot (I have insurance) to bed the engine in?

Some light on this matter would be greatly appreciated! I obviously dont wanna not run an engine in properly just so I can get a few bits of paper!

Thanks again

Edd

[Martin@PRD 0]

Martin, thanks for the reply. How would I go about this though on a road car with no Tax or MOT? If ive got an MOT booked for later in the day, is it acceptable to be potentially caught 50 miles from home (ive gotta go back again of course!) by the police, ie, are there clauses in the rules and regulations of road legalness that allow the car to be driven with no tax or mot (I have insurance) to bed the engine in?

Some light on this matter would be greatly appreciated! I obviously dont wanna not run an engine in properly just so I can get a few bits of paper!

Thanks again

Edd

 

 

Same dilemma of a customer of mine with a non road worthy track car with fully rebuilt MI16, all I can suggest is to transport it to a private road or car park, Trafford centre has the biggest I know.

 

If it was me I would disapper into the lanes or find a trader who can drive a car with plates.

Edited February 8, 2007 by Martin@PRD

[taylorspug 7]

The rules are you have to be heading to a pre booked MOT test if you are caught without one. Solution is to book one miles away i suppose!

Edited February 8, 2007 by taylorspug

[Edd-XS 0]

Thats what I was thinking although think getting stopped on the motorway saying your heading to an MOT might take some explaining...

'Do you mind explaining why your driving was so erratic sir?' lol

Edd

[jim205GTI 3]

I think that there is some sort of rule that states the testing station your car goes too has to be within a certain radius from the place where the car is registered?

 

I could be wrong though... but i am sure there was a post on here not that long ago about it