Running In A New Cam

[Gtiracer 0]

Ok,

 

so swotting up on my Pumaracing info on his site a few days ago i noticed a statement which i had not seen on the site before nor ever heard of myself. Having just bought a catcam inlet camshaft it would be wise to know the truth asap about this matter - I saw it state on Pumaracings website that after having first installed a new camshaft in an engine you musn't let it idle for the first 20 minutes of its life otherwise you will damage it, yet having asked a couple of people about this they have never heard of anything like that.

 

And also on this site i havent seen much talk of it at all, thus leading me to beleive that it doesn't matter wether this happens or not? Would it make a difference if i was just installing the inlet only camshaft rather than the pair? There's so much hype of bulls*it around the internet these days its hard to beleive what anyone says, i know David Baker from pumaracing has a good reputation around here and i'm not questioning his workmanship or methods, i just wanna make sure i'm doing the right thing for my engine.

[Ahl 4]

I've heard many a time that you need to run it at 2000-2500rpm for 15 minutes or so. My dad agrees, and hes rebuilt old engines for a long time.

 

You should probably check the valve buckets too, to make sure they are flat.

 

This would seem to make sense to me: http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/cam1.htm

Edited January 14, 2007 by Ahl

[boombang 2]

Every engine builder I know recommends it, ditto cam manufacturers.

[Sie 0]

Variation in load , run between 2000-3000 RPM for about 15-20 mins ,

[sutol 0]

Variation in load , run between 2000-3000 RPM for about 15-20 mins ,

Smart arse

[Sie 0]

Variation in load , run between 1500-2500 RPM for about 15-20 mins , also let the cam go through a few heat cycles before really caning the gear changes (up and down) to let the cam settle in otherwise it could snap , very unlikely but it does happen sometimes . Hope this helps and if i can answer any other engine part related questions i will try my best to .

 

*** ignore above post i hit enter before i had chance to write this out properely ****

Edited January 14, 2007 by Sie

[Sie 0]

Smart arse

 

 

[oli-pug 6 2 Cars]

before trying to start the engine after fitting the cam, make sure everything is set to ensure it starts straight away, do not turn the engine over for any length of time on the starter.

 

once started, dont allow the engine to idle for 20 minutes keeping revs to minimum of 2500rpm. this ensures adequate lubrication of the cam and followers and reduces contact force between them. if any adjustments need to be made during the 20 minutes, shut the engine down.

Edited January 14, 2007 by oli-pug

[sutol 0]

Graphogen sorts the turning over problem .

[Beastie 1]

Graphogen sorts the turning over problem .

 

I'm curious: How do you know?

[sutol 0]

I'm curious: How do you know?

 

Many of my engine building friends have recomended it to me as they know that my rebuilt engines never fire up as and when they are suposed to

 

 

I always forget something

[sutol 0]

http://www.graphogen.co.uk/

 

Link to the site for more info , HTH.

[phatgti 0]

Plenty of cam lube.

 

15 minutes is enough really.

[Sie 0]

The Graphogen is far better than the Cam Lube and also lubes everything else when you assemble your engine , matter of opinion on the running in time though

[Beastie 1]

Many of my engine building friends have recomended it to me as they know that my rebuilt engines never fire up as and when they are suposed to

I always forget something

 

On the contrary - there is a golden rule: Rebuilt engines always start first compression. The only possible exception to this rule happens when the customer is present

[Sie 0]

LOL , so true :-)

[Gtiracer 0]

looks like me and my friends are the only ones to have been kept in the dark never mind, at least i know now, cheers

[Mattsav 1]

Cover it with EP90 gearbox oil and run at 2000-2500rpm for first 20 minutes.

 

You'll be hard pressed to snap a steel billet although a lack of oil will kill it very quickly.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I always thought Puma Racings Cam running in guide was a bit excessive.

I hate reading about articles on running in, they are so controversial, I bet you wouldn't have to look hard to find another article by someone else who says the opposite.

Its hard to prove that by running the engine for exact 50 miles at 3000 RPM then 20 miles 5000 RPM, get out the car stop it and start it three times wiggle your left elbow scratch your nose.... you get the idea. makes a blind bit of difference to just driving it sensibly.

New cams come with a running in paste anyway. I'd Just blather that on the lobes and treat the engine as if you just bought it from new.

[petert 587]

16V cams are very hard, so less likely to be damaged during the break in period. 8V cams are very soft however, and need to to matched carefully to the new (or freshly dressed) follower. With either, it's worth using a tube of Crane Super Lube Break In Concentrate, instead of cam lube.

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts...tNumber=99003-1

 

Poor it over all the lobes/buckets during assembly. It's rich in zinc, designed to replace the zinc missing in modern oils. Cheap cam lube wipes off during the first few revolutions. You still need 2000 rpm for 15 mins. Cam lobe to follower contact is the most highly stressed part of an engine, the first to show the signs of poor lubrication/servicing. Zinc is the best thing to keep the surfaces apart.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

I've heard many a time that you need to run it at 2000-2500rpm for 15 minutes or so. My dad agrees, and hes rebuilt old engines for a long time.

This is how I ran my cam in when I'd rebuilt & fitted it to my engine, its the method recommended that came with the literature included with the cam & what I was told by Hiflow who did my head.

 

Had the downpipe glowing red hot & you could see the gases flowing through during the running in.

 

Graham.