SaneMan 0 Posted January 11, 2007 I had a slight patch on my bonnet 4 months ago and this is now the situation. It has slowly started flaking off, unfortunately making the bonnet look like it has bad aids. What grade of wet & dry would I need to get the rest off? The paint appears to be fine, so if I nib it down with wet n' dry and then some Halfords lacquer should have it shining again. Do I let that dry and use another grade of paper or the same one that took it all off? I asked a bodyshop bloke and he said it needs to be stripped back and painted then lacquered. But he would say that, wouldn't he... quoted me 150 as he 'd get away with quarter of a litre of paint. I dont fancy paying that when all it needs is rubbing down. A re-coat of lacquer seems nowhere near as difficult as putting paint on. Or am I being think...... ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2052006 10 Posted January 11, 2007 I was quoted exactly the same for doing my bonnet - so I'm going to have a go at doing it myself with a spray can - as it can be taken off the car I reckon it'll be a lot easier than any other panels. Anyone know how many cans of Halfords 330ml I would need for a bonnet? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted January 11, 2007 I was quoted exactly the same for doing my bonnet - so I'm going to have a go at doing it myself with a spray can - as it can be taken off the car I reckon it'll be a lot easier than any other panels. Anyone know how many cans of Halfords 330ml I would need for a bonnet? Both metallic? 3-4 tins of colour +same of laquer- essential on metallic. plus grades of paper from 400 -1500 for initial keying/laquer removal.you're bound to go straight through the paint whilst prepping, so 2 cans of primer,too. tin of thinners for cleaning grease etc from panel before painting and rubbing compound and polish to finish. Oh...don't forget lint-free rag and waiting until there's no moisture in the air, or all your hard work will go "foggy" 150 quid seems very reasonable for a pro-finish Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest BrainFluid Posted January 11, 2007 I reccomend using scotch bright pads rather than using wet and dry. You can probably pick some squares of it up at the paint shop you went to. When you do it use a good sized bowl of water and keep on dipping the pad into it. As soon as the water starts to turn the colour of your car you will know that you are past the lacquer and into the paint mate. That said I recently had a go at this myself on my roof and I have gone through the paint on 3 very small patches but I'm just going to pen this in. It looks a lot better but not perfect and is un lacquerd but I'm going to wait untill the summer now and do a steve and repaint the roof myself Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted January 11, 2007 I reccomend using scotch bright pads rather than using wet and dry. You can probably pick some squares of it up at the paint shop you went to. When you do it use a good sized bowl of water and keep on dipping the pad into it. As soon as the water starts to turn the colour of your car you will know that you are past the lacquer and into the paint mate. That said I recently had a go at this myself on my roof and I have gone through the paint on 3 very small patches but I'm just going to pen this in. It looks a lot better but not perfect and is un lacquerd but I'm going to wait untill the summer now and do a steve and repaint the roof myself Good man! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phonecomz 0 Posted January 11, 2007 (edited) If you wanted a good job your better repainting the entire bonnet as your body shop would. Leave bonnet on the car. double Mask wings first etc before sanding(dont want to catch paint), Use 400 paper or radom orbital sander (its much quicker) :-) and sand down past laquer, probably go through base but as already mentioned but thats fine. Move to 800/1000 paper until a1 and really flat and your free from imperfections. Patience is the key. Clean the entire bonnet with panel wipe, not thinners.. it can attack the remaining paint and leave it soft. Panel wipe is only cheap for a 5 litre can, be sure to wipe it on and wipe it off with another cloth, one in each hand is best. Also ask your paint supplier forsome tac cloth or get some on ebay, use this at the last stage to remove any final rubbish and bits, dont rub too hard, just run it lightley over the panel. Paint entire bonnet with primer. when dry use some 1500 paper to flatten the primer. Use panel wipe again and tac cloth just prior to base coat. Paint on base cost. Try to paint it on evenly. When dry Use a good quality laquer to finish off. As its on a bonnet i would use 2 to 3 light coats laquer to protect it, dont try to put it on too heavy or worry about a super heavy gloss as your painting, try to get it pretty good though(less to buff later) Leave it a few days to harden off. If anything has landed in the laquer you can use some 1500 again with water to carefully remove it. Finally give it a good buff with some farecla or polishing compound. One word of cation, dont paint it yet ... too much water in atmosphere, it will look like oneof those cheap and nasty blue vauxhall astra roofs from 1990's lol all the best and good luck !! Edited January 11, 2007 by phonecomz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted January 11, 2007 I asked a bodyshop bloke and he said it needs to be stripped back and painted then lacquered.But he would say that, wouldn't he.. Maybe because he knows what he's talking about quoted me 150 That sounds fairly reasonable. I dont fancy paying that when all it needs is rubbing down.A re-coat of lacquer seems nowhere near as difficult as putting paint on. Or am I being thick...... ? The lacquer (correct term; clearcoat) has delaminated from the base colour because of a lack of adhesion. After 4 months of being exposed to the elements, the base will have absorbed all sorts of nasties from the atmosphere, which will almost certainly cause the same thing to happen again if you just lacquer over it. I'd also lay odds that it's been re-painted at least once before, so I'd completely remove all the top layer of clear and base colour, use a decent primer/sealer to stabilise it, then paint & clear (lacquer) it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaneMan 0 Posted January 11, 2007 Use 400 paper or radom orbital sander (its much quicker) :-) and sand down past laquer, probably go through base but as already mentioned but thats fine. Move to 800/1000 paper until a1 and really flat and your free from imperfections. Patience is the key. It's 2052006 that wants to paint his. My paint is OK, I just need to take off the remaining 20% of the lacquer thats on there. Does the grit increase as you go up in number? If 400 will go through the paint then I need 800/1000 to remove the lacquer alone? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
phonecomz 0 Posted January 12, 2007 (edited) It's 2052006 that wants to paint his. My paint is OK, I just need to take off the remaining 20% of the lacquerthats on there. Does the grit increase as you go up in number? If 400 will go through the paint then I need 800/1000 to remove the lacquer alone? Sorry SaneMan but i was refering to your bonnet. I have to agree with Paintguy, with the clear coat coming off so quick the base will be in pretty poor condition and not an ideal surface to re laquer. I have to agree that you would be better going back sealer/primer, followed by base then laquer. Trying to take off the remaining 20% of clear you will almost certainly hit the base coat and if you dont go through to primer it will still be uneven paint. It really would be best just to start again and probably quicker. you will also have peace of mind that it will not shead it's laquer again in a few months from contaminates and the job will look far better. The quote for £150 isnt that bad, might be worth shopping around a little and seeing what someone else can do a pro job for. Id say £135-150 is pretty fair though if done properly. 400 grit is is more course yes, as you go higher in grit the paper becomes finer. Really though you would proably get away with 400/800 and some 1500 for finishing. Edited January 12, 2007 by phonecomz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaneMan 0 Posted January 12, 2007 Sorry SaneMan but i was refering to your bonnet. I have to agree with Paintguy, with the clear coat coming off so quick the base will be in pretty poor condition and not an ideal surface to re laquer. I have to agree that you would be better going back sealer/primer, followed by base then laquer. Sorry I hadn't read Paintguy's post as we were posting at exactly the same time so I missed it. It has been painted before, and not too well. I have used at least 10 different painters, ranging from back street railway arches to Merc main dealer guys painting 100K cars (had my merc painted by insurance there) and every single one has been from crap to average in finish.... orange peel, not flatted down properly, even drips... etc etc. I've never seen a proper job. I have had quotes of £400 and 1800 for the same job. OK so they have a spray booth and oven but it still frightens me to pay so much and come out with the same standard as I would have paying 75% less. My 205 GT has been parked up on the drive for 4 years now as it needs a whole re-spray. I just can't find anybody good enough to do it. I'd kill for a local painter who does a superb job at a decent price. If only Hilgie and his mate lived here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SaneMan 0 Posted January 14, 2007 I tried one of these wet n dry pads today. Was taking off the little bits of lacquer a treat. I really had my hopes up. Was thinking about buying the lacquer from Halfords and how good it was going to look. Then my usual problem happened. One rub too many and its all over. Gone through the lacquer and paint to reveal the dreaded yellow primer! Crap ! Off to the bodyshop then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paintguy 0 Posted January 14, 2007 Gone through the lacquer and paint to reveal the dreaded yellow primer!Crap ! Off to the bodyshop then. I hate to say it, but it was always going to happen Trying to remove a relatively hard layer of lacquer, without removing the much thinner, softer layer of basecoat underneath is nigh on impossible. Top marks for attempting it though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
