Guest payne3400 Posted January 7, 2007 Hi guys, I am having a bit of trouble getting my front pipe to fit. I have heard that you can reangle the standard pipe with out lengthening the bottom engine mount, but I can't figure out how! I've also heard that if you lengthen the bottom mount, you have oil pressure problems. The only way I can get the standard front pipe to fit is by lengthening the bottom mount about an inch, and reangling the flange on the front pipe to suite. Can anybody shed any light on this subject for me, and guide me in the right direction? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars Posted January 7, 2007 I personally think you would be better to keep the engine angle, get hold of a 2nd downpipe so cut and sut 2 pipes together for correct angle and length. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted January 7, 2007 I'm pretty sure all the 205s with 2.0 turbo engines have extended bottom mounts. Tilting the engine definitely wont cause oil pressure problems, no more than going up a slight hill anyway. There may be some truth to tilted engines wearing driveshafts slightly faster and it sometimes makes selecting second a little hard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted January 7, 2007 (edited) Extend the lower mount fork by about 15mm, no problems selcting gears on mine, couldnt tell you about oil pressure as the lights not in yet. Couple of older pictures of Fuqa's downpipe floating around somewhere. He removed the splitter in the downpipe too, wich is a wise move Engine has to be titlted slighly to miss the brake servo, unless you want to investigate a smaller servo, i would extend the bottom mount ( not buy drilling another set of holes in it though ) best to cut & shut. Edited January 7, 2007 by sonofsam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest payne3400 Posted January 8, 2007 Extend the lower mount fork by about 15mm, no problems selcting gears on mine, couldnt tell you about oil pressure as the lights not in yet. Couple of older pictures of Fuqa's downpipe floating around somewhere. He removed the splitter in the downpipe too, wich is a wise move Engine has to be titlted slighly to miss the brake servo, unless you want to investigate a smaller servo, i would extend the bottom mount ( not buy drilling another set of holes in it though ) best to cut & shut. Cheers sonofsam, brake servo ain't a problem as I've got a smaller one on from an xs, but my theory was to cut the flange off, and weld on a new front pipe with a sharper angle so it clears the bulkhead, and hire a pipe bender to make the rest of it. Sound feasable???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted January 8, 2007 I have heard that you can reangle the standard pipe with out lengthening the bottom engine mount Where did you hear that from? brake servo ain't a problem as I've got a smaller one on from an xs, So i take it you havnt lengenthed the bottom mount fork and the engine is sitting correctlly, all bolted in? Got any pics of the smaller servo and surrounding area. but my theory was to cut the flange off, and weld on a new front pipe with a sharper angle so it clears the bulkhead, and hire a pipe bender to make the rest of it. Sound feasable???? So what part are you planning on using for the downpipe? The original 205 item with a reangled flange and use pipe benders to make the rest of the system back, to the rear silencer. From my research you want to avoid any really sharp angles just after the turbo. I've Never used pipe benders before ( even though im a metal worker! ) Go for it though if you feel confident enough and doesnt cost you too much, as opposed to pre-formed bends with swaged ends I gave my bulkhead some mild 'encouragement' to move out the way slightly. Making it alot easier to make a nice smooth flowing downpipe. This is the clearence issue i had, as the 'tilt' the engine, that turbo elbow outlet moves down towards the exhaust tunnel, thus creating a less sharp angle to work with, minimal but there you go. That bolt has now gone and around that area is were I did the persuading of the bulkhead wich some may view as a bodge! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest payne3400 Posted January 9, 2007 Where did you hear that from?So i take it you havnt lengenthed the bottom mount fork and the engine is sitting correctlly, all bolted in? Got any pics of the smaller servo and surrounding area. So what part are you planning on using for the downpipe? The original 205 item with a reangled flange and use pipe benders to make the rest of the system back, to the rear silencer. From my research you want to avoid any really sharp angles just after the turbo. I've Never used pipe benders before ( even though im a metal worker! ) Go for it though if you feel confident enough and doesnt cost you too much, as opposed to pre-formed bends with swaged ends I gave my bulkhead some mild 'encouragement' to move out the way slightly. Making it alot easier to make a nice smooth flowing downpipe. This is the clearence issue i had, as the 'tilt' the engine, that turbo elbow outlet moves down towards the exhaust tunnel, thus creating a less sharp angle to work with, minimal but there you go. That bolt has now gone and around that area is were I did the persuading of the bulkhead wich some may view as a bodge! Yeah the engine is in and I havn't yet lengthened the bottom mount. I was thinking of a bit of persuation aswell on the bulkhead! That stud and the lip below it are the main issue but I cant get the standard pipe to fit by reangling the flange without tilting the engine. I was thinking of cutting the flange off the front pipe, and welding this to some new 2" pipe, and having the flange at around 45 degrees, so the only bend on the front pipe would be where the anti-roll bar/undercarridge is. Hopefully this way I wont need to "persuade" the bulkhead! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted January 9, 2007 That is how mine is made up, the flange was welded onto the front of the downpipe, wasnt really 45 degree's, though, much lesser angle, almost straight ! Best to get under there and start offering up a few angles, one of those bendy rulers is a good guide to start with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest payne3400 Posted January 10, 2007 That is how mine is made up, the flange was welded onto the front of the downpipe, wasnt really 45 degree's, though, much lesser angle, almost straight ! Best to get under there and start offering up a few angles, one of those bendy rulers is a good guide to start with. Looks good. Was that pipe pre bent or did you have it bent? and whats the white tape? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted January 10, 2007 They are mandrel bends, white tape is masking tape, thats how i held the sections together whilst dry building the exhaust, before it got welded. To bend straight stainless steel pipe in 2.5" dia i reckon you would need some serious hydraulic benders and maybe even some heat treatment, anealing etc. Mild steel would be a bit more easier, but still dont think you would get away with a manual pipe bender. The whole exhaust cost less than £150 in parts and welding, had a pro weld up the downpipe and got a mate to help me do the rest. A hydraulic bender for upto 3" to hire from somewere like Speedy for a week is about £100. 2" HB is about £60 ish. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest payne3400 Posted January 11, 2007 They are mandrel bends, white tape is masking tape, thats how i held the sections together whilst dry building the exhaust, before it got welded. To bend straight stainless steel pipe in 2.5" dia i reckon you would need some serious hydraulic benders and maybe even some heat treatment, anealing etc. Mild steel would be a bit more easier, but still dont think you would get away with a manual pipe bender. The whole exhaust cost less than £150 in parts and welding, had a pro weld up the downpipe and got a mate to help me do the rest. A hydraulic bender for upto 3" to hire from somewere like Speedy for a week is about £100. 2" HB is about £60 ish. Cool, thanks for the quotes. I aint planning on using stainless, was going to use standard mild steel for the min as I've got a friend who is going to be doing custom stainless systems in the summer, so it dont need a big shelf life. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted January 11, 2007 Bit of a conicedence http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=69300&hl= Same person maybe? Mild will be fine then mate, sounds like you got it sussed, good luck with it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest payne3400 Posted January 12, 2007 Bit of a conicedence http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...c=69300&hl= Same person maybe? Mild will be fine then mate, sounds like you got it sussed, good luck with it Ha Ha! No not the same person. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites