Putting Battery In Boot

[Spiky 37]

can i assume i just need to run 1 long (positive) cable to the boot, and mount a battery in a battery box and put the negative to the chassis???

 

is there a kit available??

Edited January 4, 2007 by Spiky

[smckeown 1]

my battery's negative terminal is mounted to the body behind passenger's seat

[Guest purpletoddy]

can i assume i just need to run 1 long (positive) cable to the boot, and mount a battery in a battery box and put the negative to the chassis???

 

is there a kit available??

 

I am going to do the same on my 205.....I have done it before on a rover coupe I had and just used a longer positive cable to the boot which was fine.......many people said that due to the extra length more current would be drawn hence I would need a thicker cable but it never went on fire while I had it... you can get a junction box that you can bolt to the inner wing etc and run all +ve terminals to that so you dont need to splice them all together

[Rik 0]

What size wire are people using to run the positive then?

 

I've got access to some shielded cable so i might as well grab it while i can!

[pdd144c 0]

25mm. Don't really see why you would need shielded cable though.

[Jrod 7]

What happens with the earth off of the gearbox then? Do you connect that to the earth in the wing?

[GLPoomobile 958]

Somebody on here mentioned recently that if you are using a standard battery you need to have a vent to the outside due to battery fumes. Not a problem with a race battery though.

[Rik 0]

25mm. Don't really see why you would need shielded cable though.

 

Cause its free! and all i can get!

 

work in A/C Production...

 

Rik

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

i will be going down this route in the not to distant future/ welding cable will be my choice. can be obtained in very short lenghts current carring capacity is very high thin multi stranded cable which is very flexible compared to say 25mm as used in house bashing it can also be terminated with a crimped lug or ferul or if u have a blowl lamp and stick solder and the know how it can also be soldered its such a short run volt drop will not come into the equation

[Hilgie 16 2 Cars]

[Normski 1]

^^^ Now that is a battery in boot.

[blackpug 0]

What happens with the earth off of the gearbox then? Do you connect that to the earth in the wing?

 

Yes, you need a good earth strap from the gearbox/engine to the body. With mine i made up a strap from the original gearbox earth point to the coil/ignition module mounting plate.

 

Ad.

[sutol 0]

many people said that due to the extra length more current would be drawn hence I would need a thicker cable but it never went on fire while I had it...

Minis used a long cable to reach the battery in the boot and it was no thicker than standard cable of the time so no problems with overheating.

The cable was about 9 feet long

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

Not a problem with overheating long wires but you can drop volts along them when cranking...

[sutol 0]

Not a problem with overheating long wires but you can drop volts along them when cranking...

Voltage drop will depend on ambient temperature (hottest part near starter) and type of cable (alluminium / copper) and of course length of run.

Battery probably giving 14.4 volts and assume drop of 2 volts then cranking should be no problem.

Depending on cable length and current drawn by starter of course.

If using armoured (SWA) then don't run an earth back along the body too close to it or it will overheat. You wouldn't anyway bu don't.

Earth only needs to be to body near battery anyway.

[Discostu 6]

Heres my battery fitted in a box i made in the boot. As the battery is sealed it doesnt need venting to atmos. Also fitted a cut off switch, saves messing about when i'm working on the car:

 

 

[Spiky 37]

here's my stuff ready to mount it in the rear, well behind passenger seat

 

 

 

[MikeHunt79 0]

Somebody on here mentioned recently that if you are using a standard battery you need to have a vent to the outside due to battery fumes. Not a problem with a race battery though.

This is true, as normal batteries release hydrogen when being charged. If it is not vented, and someone lights a fag up in the front, then you've got a French Hindenberg!

[pdd144c 0]

This is true, as normal batteries release hydrogen when being charged. If it is not vented, and someone lights a fag up in the front, then you've got a French Hindenberg!

 

It's not really that bad is it? It's not like there's no chance of sparks occuring under the bonnet normally?!

[Gentrix 2 1 Cars]

It's not really that bad is it? It's not like there's no chance of sparks occuring under the bonnet normally?!

 

Under the bonnet is more than enough venting to air.

 

 

 

it´s Hindenburg btw.

 

 

 

andi

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

Voltage drop will depend on ambient temperature (hottest part near starter) and type of cable (alluminium / copper) and of course length of run.

Battery probably giving 14.4 volts and assume drop of 2 volts then cranking should be no problem.

Depending on cable length and current drawn by starter of course.

If using armoured (SWA) then don't run an earth back along the body too close to it or it will overheat. You wouldn't anyway bu don't.

Earth only needs to be to body near battery anyway.

 

hes trying to put a battery in a boot not a fishpond

 

just call your local welding factor and obtain welder cable. low voltage high current used all day long not a problem. as for volt drop will not come into the equation as long as all connections are good and tight including any lugs may use

[sutol 0]

. as for volt drop will not come into the equation as long as all connections are good and tight including any lugs may use

Any cable suffers voltage drop over given lengh.

If you plugged say three of Halfords extension leads into each other and tried to use your electic drill say 60 to 80 mtrs away then the drill would not work properly if at all. No power see....voltage drop....cable not heavy enough

[changingman 7 1 Cars]

can i assume i just need to run 1 long (positive) cable to the boot, and mount a battery in a battery box and put the negative to the chassis???

 

is there a kit available??

 

 

You are correct there,and i just happen to have a battery relocation kit with external batery cut off switch minus the cables up for grabs.

Its fitted in one of my track weapons but im not going to need it,so drop me a pm if youre interested.

 

cheers

Liam

[gizzmo 3 1 Cars]

Any cable suffers voltage drop over given lengh.

If you plugged say three of Halfords extension leads into each other and tried to use your electic drill say 60 to 80 mtrs away then the drill would not work properly if at all. No power see....voltage drop....cable not heavy enough

oh so next time i wont to drill a hole ill make sure i do it right next to a sub station as to make sure it works 80m 0f.75mm 3183y flex would probably drop 3volts 2m 0f 35mm multi 0.01volt

[sutol 0]

oh so next time i wont to drill a hole ill make sure i do it right next to a sub station as to make sure it works 80m 0f.75mm 3183y flex would probably drop 3volts 2m 0f 35mm multi 0.01volt

 

whats your drill? say 1800w? if the flex was 2.5mm2 (about 18mV/A/M) then at 80 meters you would get 11.2 volt drop so .75 flex would drop a hell of a lot more.(as the CSA decreses the resistance per meter increases)