106 Engine Overheating Problem Sorted

[M@tt 77]

We travelled down from Sheffield to Cardiff on Friday in the missus' 106 as the Mi16 is a bit too noisy and juice hungry for extended motorway journeys, plus the 106 gearing lets you cruise at about 90 at just over 4K

 

Well it was bloody freezing and soon into the journey i noticed that the heaters weren't working only to be informed that they hadn't been working for a while!! Great ~200 miles with no heating. So thats a new heater matrix need then i thought!!

 

Anyway we ploughed on but i noticed that the car was also sitting rather hot on the gauge than normal but it wasn't reaching the red and the light wasn't on so I continued but keping a careful eye on it. Anyway we arrived safe and sound and so i soon forgot about it.

 

Then yesterday we had to drive from Cardiff to Plymouth and after about 10mins the engine temp had rocketed and warning light had come on images of being stranded on the motorway with a blown engine and no AA cover instantly sprang to mind along with one pissed off girlfriend despite the fact its her pissing car!. Anyway I manged to limp to the nearest service station where I found that there was bugger all oil in the engine!!! I usually check these things but in the rush to leave Shefield i didn't get time. Anyway £20 later for a 4l jug of essos finest crap we were off again. I was hoping that the oil would have been partially been cooling the engine and therefore the addition of the extra oil would see the temp decrease, however, not long into the journey this became apparent that it wasn't the case. The light wasn't on but it was rather high so at around Weston-Super-Mare i pulled in again at a services. Well if it wasn't the oil then it would be the coolant.

I know the engine was full of water as i had checked it the preceding day so next on the list of possible culprits was a dodgy thermostat. So bonnet up i had a good feel of the pipes around the stat housing to check that there wasn't any obvioulsy cold ones indicationg a blocked thermostat and when there wasn't i then decided to check the pipes going to the bulkhead which fed the heater matrix. These were cold to the touch which obvioulsy wasn't right. So it wasn't the case that the heater matrix was buggered it was that it wasn't getting any hot water. On top of one of the pipes going into the bulkead was a bleed valve which could mean only 1 thing, a massive airlock in the coolant system meaning the water wasn't circulating and therefore engine water not getting cooled. I loosened the bleed cap but couldn't hear any air coming out till eventually the bleed cap came off totally there was a rush of air sound and then a massive jet of hot water spraying about 15ft into the air which then promptly showered straight back down onto my head!! Ouch

 

Once it had finished spouting out i refilled the coloant system bled it properly and off we went this time the engine temp gauge read just at the first bar.

 

So that's one christmas disaster averted and one happy Matt not stuck at the other end of the coutry with no car

 

ho ho ho

 

Merry Xmas

 

Here's hoping that will be the only motoring disaster that befalls any of us this Xmas

[Rippthrough 98]

 

Easiest way to bleed the TU engines - fill the expansion tank up to a couple of inches shourt of the top, put the cap back on. Now, take the overflow pipe and blow down it, while blowing, open the bleed screw on the top of the radiator under the top hose, keep blowing until the water comes through and then shut it of and take a breath - squash the top hose a couple of times to make sure no air is sitting in it. Blow down the tube again and open the thermostat bleed valve (allen key fitting), it'll take some breath this one as the bleed hole is tiny, rinse and repeat for the one by the bulkhead.

 

Viola, one system bled in 30 seconds.

 

-Phillip

Edited December 24, 2006 by Rippthrough

[axnutty 10]

Easiest way to bleed the TU engines - fill the expansion tank up to a couple of inches shourt of the top, put the cap back on. Now, take the overflow pipe and blow down it, while blowing, open the bleed screw on the top of the radiator under the top hose, keep blowing until the water comes through and then shut it of and take a breath - squash the top hose a couple of times to make sure no air is sitting in it. Blow down the tube again and open the thermostat bleed valve (allen key fitting), it'll take some breath this one as the bleed hole is tiny, rinse and repeat for the one by the bulkhead.

 

Viola, one system bled in 30 seconds.

 

 

Exactly the same method I use as well. "Kissing the rad" aint pretty though

[Guest BrainFluid]

HO ho HO. Blooming birds and their cars eh? Tell her there is only one known punishment for such a heinous crime. Blowjobs on demand for a whole year