Easiest Way To Change A Starter?

[scumbag 0]

Whats the easiest way to change a starter on an 88 1.9 gti 205?

 

Do I really have to take off the inlet manifold? I dont wana do all that. I may just pay the 60 quid to the garage and get it done there.

 

anyone help???!!!!

[Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars]

if it isnt bolted on by the bracket to the block then you can do it without removing plenum. Bit fiddly and awkward but can be done.

[welshpug 1,657]

you can do it without removing the intake fanimold, just depends on your space awareness and how good you are at working on stuff you cant see!

 

I did mine in 30 minutes, just jack the front up a little is all you need to do and get to it from underneath.

[Alastairh 47]

A quick search will reveal all.

 

You can do it without the inlet off/rad out, but can run the risk of damaging bits.

 

Just take the inlet off, doesn't take 4 minutes and if the starter has the back bracket fitted then it makes life ALOT easier.

 

Alastair

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

You can do it without the inlet off/rad out, but can run the risk of damaging bits.

 

It depends on the car. On an early car it can be done quite easily from underneath. If the back plate is on then it is more fiddly but still easier than taking the manifold off.

 

If it is a later car with a remote oil filter, aircon or has PAS fitted then it is more difficult and I'd recommend the manifold off method.

 

Rob

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

If it is a later car with a remote oil filter, aircon or has PAS fitted then it is more difficult and I'd recommend the manifold off method.

Whats the easiest way to change a starter on an 88 1.9 gti 205?

If its still on the original starter get in touch I'd be surprised to say the least.

 

As said though if the end plate is still fitted its adds another 15 minutes to removal.

 

If you get a new smaller style replacement starter it won't fit but even if you don't I don't refit the plate.

 

If your gearbox is a BE1 (reverse next to 1st) the only other thing you might need to do is remove the clutch quadrant off the gearbox to get a socket on the bolt if its not an allen key. (mine wasn't)

 

Be careful not to loose the infamous pin though if you have to remove it.

 

Graham.

[Grim.Badger 15]

Remove the inlet, it's really easy but admitedly not as quick as people say. Once that's off it's easy to see what you're doing and you can sort some wiring whilst it's off as the connectors are bound to be corroded.

[scumbag 0]

All done! I was messing around near the throttle body for ages, but saw the size of the thing and realised no way was it coming thru that hole.

 

Pugtorque ; looks like it may be original, I don't know. It was massive and made by valeo!

 

In the end I took off the rad, which I may add, is held on in the most dodgy contraption ever. Is there supposed to be 2 fans at the front? I only have one fan on the near side. (right if you look from front).

 

Plus, loads of coolant came out, so what is the best way to top this up? I just filled from the header, then took it for a drive. After 3 miles I pulled over and water was leaking from rad. Drove another mile and all stopped and no probs since. Temp gauge on first fat marker as it always has been. is this right and is this correct way to fill cooling system?

[Super Josh 4]

Is there supposed to be 2 fans at the front? I only have one fan on the near side. (right if you look from front).

 

 

Yep, only one fan on a standard GTi

 

 

 

Josh

[Guest BrainFluid]

Plus, loads of coolant came out, so what is the best way to top this up? I just filled from the header, then took it for a drive. After 3 miles I pulled over and water was leaking from rad. Drove another mile and all stopped and no probs since. Temp gauge on first fat marker as it always has been. is this right and is this correct way to fill cooling system?

 

LOL, I'm not surprised. Dont know why you took the Rad out tho!

 

Yes, you can fill the rad up via the header tank, I presume you bled the air out of the system?

 

Either way make sure you add some antifreeze as well mate seen as its winter time.

[scumbag 0]

D'oh. Where is the bleed screw? Cheers! And if system full at the moment how much antifreeze should I add?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

D'oh. Where is the bleed screw? Cheers! And if system full at the moment how much antifreeze should I add?

Picture of bleed point locations.

 

If the system is full currently then you'll need to drain some off so you can add some anti freeze in.

 

The cooling system takes approximately 6.6 litres from empty but the heater matrix won't be emopty unless you've drained it inside the car so the most you'll get in is 6 litres with the radiator & block drained. 60%/40 mix water & antifreese is a decent level for the UK imo.

 

Graham.

[Rob_the_Sparky 9]

N.B The bleed screw on the thermostat housing is usually broken off. If not replace it with a brass bleed screw from Pug. The original plastic one is crap.

[Grim.Badger 15]

2 litres antifreeze, 4 litres water (40/60 as pugtorque said) although mines a bit closer to 50/50 at the moment.

I've never bothered with the bleed screws, I just run the car with the expansion bottle cap off and that brings most of the air through very quickly, most of the time all of the air comes out like this but if it doesn't the rest will come out with 30 minutes driving (put the bottle cap back on if you're driving).

[Guest BrainFluid]

D'oh. Cheers!

 

No worrries mate. Give yourself a pat on the back for getting into looking after your own car If I were you I would shell out a few quid on Ebay on a Haynes manual for the 205, makes great bedtime reading and will help you no end with the car!

 

Hint: When taking coolant pipes off run the car for a little while to warm the pipes, this will make them much more pliable when removing them. Same goes for changing oil, when the oil is warm it helps get more of it out.

Edited December 22, 2006 by BrainFluid

[scumbag 0]

Ideal cheers all! Got my haynes this morning so much more fun will be had! It running good now.

 

Just the idle to sort out. And the local scrapper has just got a white gti in. i'm off down there now!

[rooster 0]

having done this job 6 times im an expert

 

you dont have to disconnect the rad just take the strut off with the bonnet catch on it ( i forget the proper name) remove your air filter pipes to gain access to the bolts on the starter, i have a lift reverse so i take off the clutch arm, when youve removed the bolts lift the rad up and pull it as high as poss and tie up or support it.

 

this give you enough room to remove the starter , the fat ones or the smaller ones (always go for the smaller ones ) then refit wires, its fiddly so i jack up the car and do it from the bottom plus i ensure the soleniod wire is fitted before i start to replace the starter.

 

im selling my CTI to 1 fat pug, but it will need another starter as the one i fitted (after the other one ceased when he came for a test drive) starts the car but clicks and grates so need 3 turns or more every time

[Grim.Badger 15]

Just for info, I've just removed a fat type starter without moving the rad or inlet manifold, which is annoying as they've both been off in the past month. I did it to see if it can be done.

You need to disconnect the oil pipes from the filler and cam cover and shove them to one side, and also remove the alternator and the wires for the oil senders. Obviously the intake pipes need to come off to access the allen bolts that hold the starter in place. It would be handy to move the SAD hose from the inlet as well but it can be pushed out of the way. The starter will need manipulating to get out though as it's a tight sqeeze.

I have to say though that it's useful having the bracket already detached from the block (still on the starter though) and knowing where the 13mm +ve feed bolt is Also I have no oil cooler so it may be difficult getting it past the oil filter on a standard 1.9 as it scrapes past it anyway.

[jeremy 70]

I too changed the starter motor only a month ago. I tried to access the additional supporting plate with both the radiator, and inlet manifold in place. Eventually I gave up and removed the radaitor.

 

Personally I think this is best especially if you are fitting second hand parts. Firstly you do not have to replace the air inlet manifold gasket to the head, and secondly you can test the starter before replacing the radiator, because I would not be happy the have put a second hand one on to find it was faulty to have to work in a really awkward confined area all over again.

[Veero 1]

All you need to do is take off the throttle body and connected pipes and wires. No rad removal or inlet manifold removal.

 

Easy peasy and it *JUST* squeezes out through the gap.

 

Veero

[lagonda 42]

One advantage of removing the inlet manifold is you can check your injectors' spray patterns whilst spinning the engine over to check the starter. Of course petrol is notoriously hard to ignite unless the air/fuel ratio is approximately correct for ignition, so no worries about ignition being on.

err, no! It bloody well did ignite in a most impressive manner. No harm done as I switched off quickly.

[scumbag 0]

Yeah this would be good if I had the time but the rad removal way is just so easy! Only a couple of bolts and a couple clips and thats it!