How Well Does A Car Run With A Broken

[Ahl 4]

I have a loud clattering/ticking noise coming from my 1.9 8v. It sounds like bad valve clearances but 10 x as loud.

It would appear to eminate from the top of the engine, but I can't be completely sure.

 

The car starts, idles and revs fine, but the clattering is there and is directly related to engine speed.

 

If a big end, small end, valve, valve spring, piston, piston skirt was broken or a conrod was bent, how well would the engine run, and would it make the clattering noise? (Its not a rumble or knocking noise.)

 

The car has normal oil pressure, normal coolant level and im fairly certain its not ignition related. The cam lobes and valve buckets look fine.

 

It has taken some water into the oil though, and quite possibly hydrolocked.

See my other topic for the info on that.

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

I had this before when one of my group A shims got dislodged, could be that. should be quite obvious when measuring the valve clearances.

[stevec205gti 0]

I have a loud clattering/ticking noise coming from my 1.9 8v. It sounds like bad valve clearances but 10 x as loud.

It would appear to eminate from the top of the engine, but I can't be completely sure.

 

The car starts, idles and revs fine, but the clattering is there and is directly related to engine speed.

 

If a big end, small end, valve, valve spring, piston, piston skirt was broken or a conrod was bent, how well would the engine run, and would it make the clattering noise? (Its not a rumble or knocking noise.)

 

The car has normal oil pressure, normal coolant level and im fairly certain its not ignition related. The cam lobes and valve buckets look fine.

 

It has taken some water into the oil though, and quite possibly hydrolocked.

See my other topic for the info on that.

 

 

Just read your other thread - been there, done that

 

I had a similar thing in my 405 XU10 - only about 10 inches of water, but at about 50mph fflat out in 2nd the engine soon came to an abrupt halt. The engine locked solid, and the next morning it was a sparks plugs out and turn her over job - I had my own little water fountain display! After that the engine was very rumbly, there was a small amount of water in the oil, but the engine let go a few months later in spectacular style. It turned out I'd bent and twisted one of the conrods, and this eventually let go and punched a hole through both sides of the block, and split open the alloy sump after shattering the oil pump. All quite impressive talk down the pub, but left me with a rather hefty repair bill.

 

Back to your car, if the enngine did lock because it filled with water, then you need to consider everything involved in making the pistons go round and also valves for areas of damage - so crankshaft, conrods, pistons, bent valves...... If any of these are damaged they can make any manner of noises

 

Hope that yours isn't as serious as this though, all the best sorting her out

 

As I said before, mine ran quite reliably afterwards but just a bit noisey, but if there is any damage there then eventually it will fail.

[Ahl 4]

Its a complete barsteward. I wasn't going very fast in the water, but enough to not be able to get back out once I was in, so I just tried to keep a bow wave up which I think I was managing quite well until it stopped. :S

 

Depending on how things go, you may be about to see the fastest mi16 rebuild and fit in the history of 205-kind!

 

I had this before when one of my group A shims got dislodged, could be that. should be quite obvious when measuring the valve clearances.

I take it this had nothing to do with hyrdolock though?

[jonah 1]

Read your other thread too - bad luck mate

 

I reckon the burnt out rotor arm was just coincidence - Can't think of any way it could suddenly burn out no matter what stress the engine was going through. The smoke (steam?) when you tried to start it was probably from the starter motor, and the reason it wouldn't run properly - water in some of the cylinders and wet spark plugs. That first run cleared out the pooled water, allowing the spark plugs to dry, so by the time you fitted the new rotor arm the next day it was able to spark on all 4 again.

 

Sorry to add to the misery but I also know of a few other people whose engines have snapped a conrod soon after being hydrolocked, so that seems to be the weakest link. If a conrod has bent so it's now effectively shorter, then the piston will be moving further down the bore than before. So if the engine's done a fair few miles and has worn ridges in the liners, then you could be getting a tap every time the piston and rings step past the ridge.

 

Good luck sorting it out anyway, post pics of any good damage you find if you take it apart!!

[Ahl 4]

If a conrod has bent so it's now effectively shorter, then the piston will be moving further down the bore than before. So if the engine's done a fair few miles and has worn ridges in the liners, then you could be getting a tap every time the piston and rings step past the ridge

Cheers for that. Are you speaking from experience regarding the noise, or just making a good suggestion?

[Guest srack]

check the resistance over your spark plugs. sometimes one of them finds god early. if you do not have a way to check the resistance, i suggest before opening the engine, remove all spark plugs, replace them and the wires. it can sound like its running -1 cyl.

[jonah 1]

Cheers for that. Are you speaking from experience regarding the noise, or just making a good suggestion?

No it's not from experience, just trying to deduce what might have happened.

[tagy 1]

Depending on how things go, you may be about to see the fastest mi16 rebuild and fit in the history of 205-kind!

 

yeah right

 

sorry to hear this, I seriously misjudged a flooded road the other day, the water was upto the bonnet and the front was starting to bob. I just kept my foot on the floor hitting the limiter and luckily came out in a cloud of smoke.. must of looked quite good I thought

[pugrallye 0]

you can pretty much guarantee you have bent at least one con rod, amount obviously varies as to how full the cylinders were, top end clatter sounds either a tappet or 5 full of water rather than oil or a sticking / bent valve only way to see is strip and inspect!

Edited December 20, 2006 by pugrallye