[project] Project 205 Xu13j4

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Took off the eccentric top mounts from the coilovers tonight, to find the spherical bearing itself had a significantly axial play as expected, as the front end made some horrendous noises driving on uneven surfaces.

 

Are these really supposed to be axially "tight" or do they have a slight amount of slack? The mounts have probably been used for just about 1000km or something in that range, so more or less brand new, or is it likely to get silent if I buy new proper quality ones?

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Started out yesterday with the cam settings as I finally bolted the head down on the block again.

 

Put orginal pulleys in place and timed it as close to orignal as possible with the Cat pulleys as a start.

 

 

 

 

Ran into problems with measuring the valve lift so just ended it there.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Found a small allen head bolt today and soldered a drill bit to it as an extension so started again.

 

Set the crank to 106 deg +- TDC and found the maximum lift of both cams using that method, quite easy I must say and more accurate than just relying on the lift @ TDC.

 

 

Nice and open valve

 

 

 

Also took the injectors out as I'm taking them for testing to see if they are nicely flowmatched or not.

 

[petert 587]

LCL method is only accurate if you verify an angle/lift either side of the lobe centre.

 

I wouldn’t use 106 for both cams. More likely 106/109 or 104/107 will be better.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I indeed measured the lift on either side and put it mid-inbetween. Same as when locating TDC for the pistons basicly.
Hm ok.. so the exhaust should be altered a bit then.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Set it to 106 / 109 now.

 

Lift @TDC values are: 3.12mm / 2.65mm 

(valve CL = 0.15 / 0.10mm)

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

It has been a very long time. I lost motivation after the thread on plug #3 went fubar after I had i all assembled.

 

I tried to do a in-situ repair but it didn't work so had to pull the head off again... 

Finally got the plug thread repaired and it has sat some months alone after that.

 

Today I went to put the head on just to find the rear right headbolt pull the threads in the block. 

 

So off again with the head... block needs helicoiling on that one above the waterpump.

 

After investigating quite a bit about head bolt combination I must admit that the 123mm long TD bolts with 20mm spacers for the normal 9 bolts, and 3mm washer for the one above the waterpump is not a good choice. The thread starts 7mm from the bottom of the bolt.. hence too few threads have been in action, even the 9 others might have been on the limit.

 

So I have decided to use the XU10J4R 110mm bolts with 3mm washer on the 9 regular ones.

 

Not totally decided yet on the last one, but I found a 150.5mm bolt used on a 2.1TD engine which I think will be good in combo with a 20mm spacer.

 

Maybe next spring this car might be started again? I'm just tired of it by now.

 

 

[petert 587]

Yes, depending on the bolt type/length, I turn down the spacer so the engaged thread length is the same as the oem bolts. Typically 12-15mm? Cut that unthreaded part off, so it doesn't punch through the block.

[welshpug 1,657]

those aren't like any xud head bolt i have seen before, nor have I heard of people using them for all 10 holes!  only the one was ever required.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Ok, I've bought several sets of the XUD 123mm bolts and all 3 off them had missing threads at the lower 7mm.

 

I was using all 10 bolts, the 9 "normal" ones with the 1.9 Mi16 20mm spacer as washer as I said.. so that worked OK enough, even though I believe also these have had too little thread engagement, but all other threads in the block seem fine so far.

 

I will use the 9 XU10J4R bolts I have with the smaller washers as they seem to protrude about 30mm from the head with the threads all the way down.

 

Last one I will call Peugeot about and see if they have one in stock.

 

Biggest issue is to get the block properly helicoiled, as I'm a bit sceptical to do it myself as I'm quite unexperienced.

[petert 587]

My ARP studs arrived today. I'll post in the 16V section. They're a game changer.

[Andy 105 1 Cars]

I have a set for my XU9J4 alloy block. Head bolts without pain and reusable . They were not cheap but avoid a whole galaxy of pain . 

[wicked 103 3 Cars]

3 hours ago, B1ack_Mi16 said:

Biggest issue is to get the block properly helicoiled, as I'm a bit sceptical to do it myself as I'm quite unexperienced.

Given the things you already achieved, I think helicoiling it should not be an issue for you. Most tricky thing is to get the right coils; meaning the ones that are long enough.  

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

My engine builder is on the matter... he'll come and help me out.

 

About ARP studs, where to buy and which are correct length for MI16 head on the Iron block? Will there be an issue with the waterpump hole?

 

I'm considering it myself too... only thing I'm sceptical how easy it will be to lift the head off the block with the exhaust manifold still attached?

[welshpug 1,657]

I dont think it will come off the studs even with the manifold off, certainly wouldnt with a decent manifold or a gti6 one.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Yes I find it very comfy just to unbolt the V-band clamp from the 309 GTi16 manifold and lift it off attached. Saves a lot of work...

[petert 587]

You're right, in that they don't suit in car removal of the head. For regular maintenance of race engines, they're ideal however.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

So I got the new bolts, 110mm ones with male torx head, Payen ones, strength class 10.9. (The TD / DW8 bolts were 8.8...)

Also the long bolt specced at 150.5mm did only have 144mm down to the bottom of the threads, but not really a problem, making the washers a bit thinner. Also the long ones had 10.9 rating.

 

So now I just need to wait for my enginebuilder to show up with the long helocoil insert, only had 15mm ones in stock. Ordered 24mm long ones to be installed.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Car has now been working for some weeks.

 

Helicoil worked out fine and head bolted down properly with the new bolts, all now stick out the same amount of the head surface.

 

 

 

 

After I set the cam timing again and got it started I've been spending quite some time on getting it to start properly from cold, which still proves a bit hard to manage without a idle valve.

 

 

Status pic from the lions