Grim.Badger 15 Posted November 15, 2006 I'm being pig headed and I'm going to change my engine, despite being advised not to on this forum. I'm going to run a compression test on the old one (hoepfully tonight) anyway but I doubt it will be good as it burns oil all the time, and lots of it as well (approx 1l per 100miles I think). It's also been low on oil lots of times, and low on pressure lots of times when the pump was clogged. So what will I need to fit a bare engine? So far I know I'll need; Sump Gasket, exhaust Gaskets, Inlet Gasket, Waterpump, Cambelt and Rocker Cover Gasket (is this also known as the valve cover gasket?). But does the waterpump from GSF come with a gasket? Will the thermostat need a gasket? Will the input shaft seal on the gearbox need renewing (only a couple of months old)? I've never taken an engine apart, or out of a car before so please help and tell me if I'm missing something. Also is it worth fitting an uprated spring in the pump? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chunkymonkey 0 Posted November 15, 2006 hi grim i would replace all the gaskets as you dont want to be pulling the engine back out after finding an annoying leak.cheers gaz Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vince 0 Posted November 15, 2006 as long as the engine is out you may also change the headgasket as a precaution, and to avoid to do it in few thousands miles.... the driveshaft seals, if the engine come with a gearbox... anything you can, I would say... too vince Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hengti 2 Posted November 15, 2006 before you renew a load of components on a 'new' engine, make absolutely sure the engine you're putting in is worth the effort. don't buy anything without hearing it running - ideally you want to drive the car it's coming from and spend a little time satisfying yourself that it's up to standard. i've bought mini engines before without hearing them running, naively trusting the seller's assurances that they're good, only to find that they're not. there's nothing more annoying than spending money on a new clutch, gaskets, filters and such, spending tens of hours taking the engine out, swapping stuff over, and then putting it all back together with new fluids - all to find that it was a waste of time and you have to do it all over again ... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daxed 7 Posted November 15, 2006 Just read hen - words of wisdom Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
luggy 13 Posted November 15, 2006 (edited) OOOOOwwww you just wouldnt let it lie would you, just wouldnt let it lie. If your hell bent on changing the engine then do it, just take your time and dont be in a hurry to get it completed. Edited November 15, 2006 by luggy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted November 16, 2006 Well given the compression test yesterday (178 on two cylinders before the starter started clicking at me will try again) I may just change over the heads. If the rings are okay then I'll keep the old block in which is much less hassle for me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianthemagical 1 Posted November 20, 2006 the 8v 1.9's don't have rockers as the cam acts directly on the tappetes above the valves so the valve cover gasket will be the rocker cover gasket. not sure if it needs replacing as it is rubber but unless your doing it on a buget then why not change it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted November 21, 2006 (edited) Hi Hugh If its the egingine I sold you that you are fitting then the engine is defenatly a runner and diddn't smoke or burn oil anywhere as bad as yours does. All the Gaskets and seals were changed <30,000 miles ago so shouldn't need changing. The Cam belt should also be OK. It should be a straight swap, but you will need to swap over the oil pump and sump & spacer from your old engine. Like I said after inspecting the bearings they wernt as good as I hoped, (It looks like bit of cross contamination on a few of the bearing faces) The oil pressure was fine though and the other bearings looked O.K. so it's up to you if you want to fit new shells. The crank was fine so just buy oversized 0.3 shells (check this size though by taking a shell with you when you buy a new set. I'm 90% sure the crank has been ground once not twice). ALL The bearing caps also need tourquing down as my tourque wrench wasn't at my mums where you picked the engine from, The Mains have a torque setting, the big ends are tourqued then angle tightened. If you need help just ask. Alex. Oh and if you decide to paint it make sure you get plenty of degreaser on it first Edited November 21, 2006 by ALEX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted November 21, 2006 Cheers Alex, it is the engine you sold me. To be honest I've not even taken it out of it's bag yet as it will probably be February before I have the money to do anything I'll have to get it out tonight and check over what I think needs doing and decide whether I want to transplant the whole engine, or just the head. As I've just cleaned up the contact on my starter motor I should be able to do a compression test on the old one without it clicking at me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted November 21, 2006 (edited) Seeing (smelling) you leave when you picked up the engine I'd say the rings have gone on yours especially if it's still smoking like that when its warmed up and you said it was down on power. Id swap the whole engine it would take the same length of time as changing the head over. It would make things esier if ou have access to a hoist to lift it out though. Edited November 21, 2006 by ALEX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted November 21, 2006 Seeing (smelling) you leave when you picked up the engine I'd say the rings have gone on yours especially if it's still smoking like that when its warmed up and you said it was down on power.Id swap the whole engine it would take the same length of time as changing the head over. It would make things esier if ou have access to a hoist to lift it out though. It really does stink all the time and uses a lot of oil and even smokes. I'll try and get a picture of my plugs up at some point because they don't look as bad as they should if the rings are as far gone as they seem. But no I don't have access to a hoist, I wasn't sure what I was going to do about that I may try and con my local garage into swapping the blocks as they towed my car the 200 yards when the cambelt tensioner broke for free Otherwise I was going to see if I could rent one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ALEX 98 1 Cars Posted November 21, 2006 It's possible withouth a hoist by removing the G/box from underneath, then two of you to lift out the engine. But it's esier with a hoist Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grim.Badger 15 Posted November 21, 2006 Well when I finally get around to it I'm going to take a lot out, including the radiator and bumper etc so it should make moving the two engines about easier. I'm going to have to re-arrange my garage though so that I can move around the car easily and still get the door closed. Unfortunately I don't know anyone around here who'd be willing to help so I'm not sure if lifting the engines by hand is practical I'll probably strip the old engine down in place as I want to pull it apart and box it up as spares, but that still leaves the new engine to shift Sorry I'm making this thread a bit chatty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
