Just Bought First 205 - What To Tackle First?

[silent_running 0]

My mate just bought a leggy 1989 1.6 GTi (130k or something like that) and the first things that seem obviously to need doing are the head (it's smoking a lot although the engine feels very strong), the clutch (very heavy although the biting point and action are right) and the handbrake (too much travel).

 

So seeing as rebuilt 1.6 heads don't seem to be very much money, is it better to just buy one ready to bolt on, that way if it's more than just the valve stem seals, it won't matter? The clutch problem seems like a classic case for changing the cable, and the handbrake either wants adjusting or replacing the cable again.

 

Now assuming he gets hold of a new head for it, and we don't really know any history on it, what are the 'might as well' jobs while we're there, bearing in mind we've never worked on a 205 before?

 

So far I'm thinking oil change, air/fuel/oil filters, belts, clutch cable, new head gaskets and bolts. Anything else I've forgotten?

[welshpug 1,666]

brake fluid!

[smighall 1]

Rear beam!

[PugAddict 0]

spark plugs / HT leads / dizzy cap & rotor arm

[hengti 2]

if you're going to the trouble of taking the head off, you may as well renew the cambelt, tensioner and water pump at the same time.

it is possible to have the stem seals done with the head on though.

[Baz 421]

If you're going to all that trouble and spend all that money on doing the head, so new headset, belts etc, would it not make sense to buy another known good engine and just whack that in?

 

Otherwise, i'd say the same as above, serviceable/maintenance items etc.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Don't for get to check the water pipes especially the metal one that runs along the inside of the splash guard on d/s. Seen that go on them in the winter time. Just do a simple coolant pressure test as well when your doing all the rest of that stuff.

[jim21070 2]

Heater Matrix.

 

They are not the most reliable of things and either silt up or leak. If there is little warm air coming out, change it. They are cheap and easy to replace.

 

Do give the whole cooling system a good flush out first though as any suspended crap will soon kill a new matrix by acting as an abrasive on the thin ally "U" bends in it and grinding pinholes in them.

 

In fact, give the whole cooling system a real good check and if you have any doubt about any part (especially the rad itself) replace. These engines thrive on good cooling and soon complain if they don't get it.

[silent_running 0]

Great stuff, thanks for all the tips. I can't go too crazy on it cos it's not mine - I'm just supplying the basic mechanical know-how and time. It's just essential, sensible maintenance really.

 

The engine runs really well and it feels strong, and I think it's in good condition, hence why I don't want to drop a new lump in - better the devil you know and all that. It's just smoky, that's all. The suspension seems compliant enough, and without having had a proper look at it, the rear beam is probably OK for the time being. I will check though.

 

The heater was the first thing I checked! It warms up straight away, no problems. The brakes are pretty good already, of course that's helped by the fact that the whole car weighs about as much as a wheelbarrow, but I will do the fluid anyway.

 

Forgot about the electrics - I'll do that. What are the intervals for stuff like plugs etc?

 

As far as the head goes, how likely is it that on 130k miles there will be other stuff that needs rebuilding? The stem seals are the obvious thing, but is there anything else that might have worn out that will make it more sensible to just stick a whole new ready-rebuilt head on rather than rebuilding it myself?

 

What's the best way of cleaning the cooling system on these? A hosepipe first one way then the other?

 

Any other suggestions?

[silent_running 0]

One other thing. Having never taken a head apart before, any special tools I'll need?

[Guest rick03054]

You'll need a valve spring compressor and stem seal pliers. And valve grinding paste and tool, either drill mounted (expensive) or hand held (about £2 but takes a while)

 

It's easy to do, as long as you keep all the valves etc bagged and labelled. And note the positions of the cam caps.

[silent_running 0]

Sounds like fun. Are those stem seal pliers the ones that are like £40 on ebay?

[Guest rick03054]

Cheaper than that.

[silent_running 0]

Nice one. And my mate thought buying a £375 car would be cheap motoring...by the time we've finished overhauling it, it'll be £500 spent and who knows how many hours.