Driveshaft Removal..............

[richors 0]

Hi - Sorry if this is a numpty question but i am trying to remove the driveshaft on the drivers side to replace the gearbox and just want to be sure i am not about to cock it up.

I have undone the two nuts that turn through 90 deg and have been able to move the center bearing to some degree but the shaft is not coming out of the box. Do i need to remove the shaft at the hub end first (not from the hub but in the same way as the passenger side?)

I have used the 'how to' guide on Jon Murgies site which is great but i just want to avoid seperating the shaft from the bearing. Is there anything that holds the shaft into the actual box?

 

Also - Plug leads on an Mi engine - are they just a tight fit onto the plug as mine don't seem to want to pull off and again, just don't want to damage them.

 

cheers.

[smighall 1]

If the shaft hasn't been out in a while that intermediate bearing can be a bitch.

 

Get somebody to pull/support the hub with the shaft still attached, and then yank the shaft out from between the gearbox and engine mount casing.

 

If it's really stuck in the mount casing you may have to hit it through with a hammer and suitable drift. Just be careful not to damage it.

 

Oh, and no there isn't anything holding/locking the shaft in the box.

 

Also just double check that the two locking pins on the bearing are definitley out of the way of the bearing.

[Alastairh 47]

Not sure what stage your at.

 

But undo the hub nut, and pull the shaft out the hub, either buy pulling the hub off the shock, or doing the bottom ball joint.

 

Some times its best to remove the black plastic cover aswell, as it can get in the way for the metal water pipe.

 

Undo the 2 11mm bolts, and turn 90 degrees.

 

Now most bearing are stiff these days. So get a decent chisel and a lump hammer and tap the shaft out.

 

Some times they can be buggers. But when refitting, clean the surfaces on the bearing with emery/sand paper.

 

Alastair

[Baz 421]

Undo the 2 11mm bolts, and turn 90 degrees.

 

pull them out slightly(won't come all the way anyway) and turn 180 degrees just to be sure they're well out of the way.

 

[sorr 0]

As long as you have a suitable, aluminium or brass, drift then do not be afraid to really hit it hard. It took several blows from a sledge hammer to get mine off.

[richors 0]

Thanks for the replies everyone - will have another go tonight.

 

cheers.

[steve@cornwall 100]

Thanks for the replies everyone - will have another go tonight.

 

cheers.

 

for a g/box removal, I leave the hub in place, separating the bottom balljoint, track rod end and the intermediate bearing bolts only, theres enough movement in the brake line + strut to pull it all clear.

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

I had to tap the intermediate bearing out the other night, used a sturdy piece of wood and a lump hammer and she came free no problem. I've had ones just pull straight out.

Edited November 10, 2006 by Edp

[richors 0]

Well - I had another go and while tugging on the hub end, a circular bevelled piece of metal with an internal dia of around 22mm fell out - presumably from between the bearing and the drive shaft.

Guess i am in big trouble now??

[welshpug 1,657]

nah, just put it back in! sounds like the outer race of the wheel bearing, nowt to worry about!

[richors 0]

It is the outer bearing and at the moment i cant see if that is the only part that has come off.

One has come off on the other side too and most of the needles are on the floor

I assume the needles will have come off inside the gaiter on the drivers side too?

So i guess its either new driveshafts or remove them from the hub and try to refit the needles!

 

Beginning to wish i hadn't started now.........do places sell 2nd hand shafts and are they a lot of money anyone?

I need to get it done for Oulton park on the 25th so new shafts might be quickest route...........

 

cheers

[smighall 1]

Local factors will normally do an exchange for your old ones as long as they are serviceable

[richors 0]

Are 1.6 driveshafts strong enough on a 1.9 or are they totally different?

I am guessing the 1.9 ones are thicker and wondered how the smaller ones would stand up to track use in a 1.9 with an Mi engine in..............?

[mossy 0]

There is a difference between the 1.6 and 1.9 engines.

There is a set for the 1.6 on fle bay only a few months old. ( NOT MINE AND I DON'T KNOW THE SELLER)

 

Al.

[Baz 421]

1.9 ones havedifferent splines, and use a larger hub nut, you will also need 1.9 hubs to go with them though.

 

On the CVJ note, if you can find all the needles, they can be cleaned and put back together, although painstakingly fiddly and slow, get yourself some molybdenum grease, clean it all up and stick the needles back on using the help of the grease, slide the retaining ring over them carefully, whack a nice amount of grease over everything, cover with the boot and re-affix the shaft all back together.

[Baz 421]

Oh, and 1.6 shafts should be fine to cope with a standard Mi really.

[richors 0]

The car has 1.9 hubs etc on now so i will try to rebuild as you suggest or seek some replacements if it all goes pete tong while trying to reassemble

 

cheers

[C_W 3 1 Cars]

Don't pull on the hub end The only thing holding the inner CV joint together is the rubber boot.

 

You need to be under the car and use a hammer and chisel on the ledge of the driveshaft to knock it out of the engine mount/bearinghousing.

[richors 0]

Gearbox out now and driveshafts off - just need to try and rebuild 2 of the bearings to avoid having to buy new shafts

Bought uprated mount kit to fit while its all off and the big one on drivers side snapped threaded rod off as soon as i tightened it so the fun continues.........will get there in the end.

Waiting for uprated clutch to arrive then will have a go at putting it all back...

 

cheers