[engine_work] Mad's - Supercharged Pug Project

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

ooh, that's extremely neat and tidy!

 

what's the CC off and what sort of pump are you going to use with it?

[tom_m 0]

Can I cut and reweld the thermostat outlet or is there a different body out there I could use? Or Could I get away with chopping off 10mm from the end of that hose fitting, would the hose stay on? Suggestions and ideas please.

 

ooo thats annoying. could try a combination of trimming the flange slightly and peening a small dent into the boost pipe? you'll probably need to re-swage the pipe end if you do trim some off too.

[kyepan 291]

impressive, well done!

[jackherer 543]

Can I cut and reweld the thermostat outlet or is there a different body out there I could use? Or Could I get away with chopping off 10mm from the end of that hose fitting, would the hose stay on? Suggestions and ideas please.

 

 

You can remove at least 10mm from that fitting and then run a bead of weld round it similar to the original end so the hose doesn't come off. As long as there is a few mm more than the width of a jubilee ring it will be fine.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

what's the CC off and what sort of pump are you going to use with it?

 

The charge cooler is off an 8 cylinder supercharged jag of some sort.... And orignal looked like this. In the jag it bolts directly to the cylinder head.

 

 

For the 205 it has been modifed, the cylinder head ports have been replaced with one 70mm port off exiting at one end.

 

The pump is one of these: Pump Link

 

Todays progress.

 

Did a test chop on a spare body... got a little carried away... It started off being 30mm in length now its 10mm.. I'd guess 15mm should be enough for the pipes to clear each other. After chopping it, I worked a lip onto which should hold the hose, as long as I leave enough for the hose clip next time!

 

 

I have been looking into tapping into, or using one of the rear sensor holes to put in a hose tail, but there all a bit too small to be used for heater hose.

 

Thanks for all the replys,

 

Mad.

Edited October 15, 2007 by madspikes

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Progress has almost ground to a halt again, mainly due to waiting for things coming by post. But, while waiting for parts, earlier in the week I got the chargecooler system plumbed in, works a treat, the swirl pot does swril a little too much at times but should be ok once the engine is running.

 

However the new 90deg oil connectors arrived yesterday which means as soon as I get some time (tomorrow, fingers crossed) I can finish off the oil system. Then is just a matter of putting the coolent system back together, and then its START time!

 

The plan with starting is to run the car without the charger feeding the engine, but with the charger connected just to check the belt runs work. Once this is ok, and not spitting belts.... It will be time to connect the system up totally, to force feed the pug its air!

 

Sorry, there arnt any new pictures, but I've been slack and not up loaded them.

 

Mad

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

ok i've now merged your two topics into one that contains for information .

 

you need to update the link to this topic on your website though.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

ooo.... One big thread.... thanks cybernck.

 

Anyway, progress..

 

Finally got the oil system installed yesterday and got the car into a state to try and start it!

 

Then came first problem, the starter motor wouldn’t kick over, the battery is ok it’s just the dam starter motor. I bought it off the bay a year ago as a freshly re-con item... It just seems to have issues. Anyway with the use of a hammer the starter motor spun into life! Problem one solved then came problem 2. The car start just wouldn’t start, then I remembered that I had disconnected the coil packs, that would do it! It did give me a change to check the charger drive belt, and it looked all lined up and good for a proper start. This time with the coil packs connected the car fired first time, but there was no oil pressure (problem 3).... I check the wiring, and yes it was connected, bugger there is something wrong the newly installed remote oil filter and oil cooler.

 

Just to check with people that I have installed in correctly, I have plumbed the system thus:

 

Engine (outer edge outlet) to

 

Remote oil filter (outer edge of the filter) to

 

Oil stat to

 

Either the oil cooler then back to the engine or just back to the engine.

 

Yes I have connected the stat so that one of the returns from cooler is blocked and oil can flow by-passing the cooler.

There is oil in the stat, so I'm not sure why there isn’t any pressure.

 

Any suggestions

 

Mad.

[cyman 1 1 Cars]

how long has the engine been since it was last running.

it could take a good few seconds to pump up the lifters and get some pressure.

i always use a manual pressure gauge, and remove the spark plugs to get oil pressure up.

cyman

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Managed to get out to the pug again this afternoon, even though it was rainning as I wanted to solve the no / low oil pressure, and I think I've solved it, ish! Just before installing the oil system we changed the cambelt, crank and cam oil seals.... and I believe now that we must have missed putting the oil pump crank key back in.... Hence I get a little oil pressure, but no where near enough! D'oh... That mean all the belts need to come off... great!

 

But here are some pictures of the latest progress.

 

Belt Avi - It is quite dull.

 

 

 

I dont think shes looking to bad, needs a bit of tidying up... but not bad at all if I do say so my self!

 

 

 

Hopfully should be able to start stripping the belts off this week, to try and get a running car by the weekend!

 

Mad.

Edited October 28, 2007 by madspikes

[24seven 104]

good project! I'm planning on superchargng my XU7 306 XS with an eaton M45. Gonna fit GTi-6 manifolds and a GTi-6 head complete first tho. Going to use a decompression plate as well to try and keep some reliability in it too, though I'm only aiming for around 200bhp at the wheels.

[M@tt 77]

mad

 

I'm not 100% sure but it's certainly the case on the Mi16 there is no key for the oil pump chain sprocket, is simply held on by the tightness of the Crank Pulley key,i'd hate for you to pull everything apart unecessarily.

 

O/T 24seven not sure if you've sorted a M45 yet but if you havent i've got one i'm probably going to be selling mine shortly as i think i might opt for the M62 for my SC project. Let me know if you interested

[24seven 104]

Chees matt, but for the moment I'm working on turning the XU7JP4 into an XU7PJ4RS with gti-6 bits, then the supercharging will happen late next spring/early summer time. if you've still got it then, let me know

Edited October 28, 2007 by 24Seven

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Thanks M@TT for that info, I will looking into it, but looking at my spare 8v... The pump locks with a key... It might also work well enough with the pulley bolt done up R.F.T. and not just F.T! I will try that tomorrow...

 

 

 

The biggest problem with supercharging is getting into a positition where it can be driven from the crank. SHould be easier on in a 306, as there is more space to play with.

 

Thanks

 

Mad.

[24seven 104]

piece of p!ss on my 306 mate. I'm swapping it for the a/c pump which doesn't work

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

piece of p!ss on my 306 mate. I'm swapping it for the a/c pump which doesn't work

 

I have one word.... Git! There is just no space in the 205!

 

 

PROGRESS!

 

Fixed the oil pressure, tightened up the pulley bolt on the crank... and jobs a good'en!

 

Got most things bolted on, enough to start the beast! - The boost is stil being vented at the moment.

 

MP3 of First start....

 

Avi with sound

 

The almost finished engine bay, needs a tidy!

 

Currently need to sort out:

* How to mount the re-circ valve.

* How to fit the air filter... It doesnt fit where it was ment to.. That down by the gearbox.

* How to fiit the oil beathers and filler

 

Comming along very nicely!

 

Mad.

Edited October 29, 2007 by madspikes

[sonofsam 5]

Awesome!

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

I'm sure people do read my posts...... well at the time of writing 4614 people had looked at this thread!

 

Progress was backward yesterday. I did the simple thing of filling the coolant system, and it leaked out of the inlet manifold gasket! Great! So 1 hour later, seems like the whole world needs to come off now to remove it, I have the inlet off.

 

The gasket is new, and a pug one at that so why is it leaking? Well, I expect there are two reasons, one being the fact that I'm only using 4 out of the 5 fixings and the other is that there are some nice big scraches going through where it was leaking. The latter will be sanded out with fine wet and dry on a large block.

 

The reason for not using the 5th fixing is that you cant get to it due to the boost pipe being in the way, yes bad design, well yes and no, it was supposed to be a smaller diameter pipe! . I did think I could get away with this but obviously I cant, and if the water is getting out, it isnt going to hold positive pressure from the charger! So it looks like I'm going to be modifying the boost pipe this evening, so I can use this 5th fixing.

 

 

My other issue at the moment is connecting the oil filler and breathers....

 

 

Mad.

[tom_m 0]

what you need is someone with very small hands and a vice like grip!

 

looking good dude, hope it all comes together!

[GLPoomobile 958]

what you need is someone with very small hands and a vice like grip!

 

looking good dude, hope it all comes together!

 

 

Yeah, Jeremy Beadle would probably be grateful for any work he can get these days!

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

The car is all connected up and working well... kind of.... boost is still being vented to air...

 

However more importantly is the latest problem, there now is a nasty noise coming from the engine. I believe it is coming form the cylinder head, and sound just like a diesel rattling away. The noise just start while the car is idling warming up. The car still runs but is noisy. I am concerned that its down the new oil system, but it looks ok, all the oil pipes warm up, so oil must be flowing, I guess.

 

Any suggestion what I should try?

 

Mad.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Its all ar*e. It just went pop, and now theres no compression, none what so ever.

 

I suppose I better start digging out the spare cylinder heads!

 

Time for a beer!

 

Mad.

 

Ps there might not be any more updates for a while... Me and the pug have fallen out!

[Doof 11]

Aww gutted mate. Im sure you can have it all apart and back together in no time. At least nothing will be rusted solid.

 

How did it go pop then? you stop venting the boost to atmosphere?

 

Reading it again im guessing it was a result of this tapping, not feeding the boost in...and if all compression is gone on all cylinders it looks like something camshaft related....can they actually break / snap!!?

Edited November 3, 2007 by Doof

[tom_m 0]

can they actually break / snap!!?

 

yes they can. anthony snapped an stdt cam clean in half.

 

gutted for you mate. just use it as an excuse to get some work done on the new head

[24seven 104]

Gutted. was looking forward to vids of this in action, and giving it a pasting in my sc 306 (when it happens)