Turbo7379 3 Posted November 5, 2006 I have the forked chisel type of ball joint splitter but I find that it doesn't force the wishbone out of the hub fully on a pug & I have to drive another chisel in alongside it . It also has a habit of damaging the rubber boot . What kind of splitter do you guys use ? There's a company somewhere that will supply rubber boots in all sizes - anyone heard of them ? I've a couple of good wishbones with damaged boots & I want to repair them for spares . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boombang 2 Posted November 5, 2006 If you push the hub inwards you'll find the wishbone almost drops out. No need for using a splitter and saves boot damage. I bought a pair of wishbones as spares but someone has used a fork on them meaning the boots are trashed - I too need a pair of balljoint bushes! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,675 Posted November 5, 2006 you only use that type of splitter on balljoints that have a tapered shaft, like track rod end joints. wishbone joints just need the bolt removing as Boombang said, though loosening the inner bolts may help sometimes as the tension in the rubber bushes may hold the arm in place as they're meant to be done up when the car is on the ground to prevent pre-loading and prematur failure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted November 5, 2006 i always pry the back of the hub open a little, and if the arm doesnt drop, shove a scaffold bar over the arm, under the shaft, and under the subframe, then stamp on it!never fails! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted November 5, 2006 i always pry the back of the hub open a little that accellerates ovalling of the hole in the hub, not a good idea. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jim21070 2 Posted November 5, 2006 I've tried several balljoint splitters (for the tapered variety) over the years and none have given me full satiafaction. For the last 10 or so I have worked very happily using the "Two Hammer" method. It works perfectly for me and I have two identical 4lb club hammers I keep just for this job. Never once let me down nor caused any damage either to boot or housing... There is a technique to doing it this way that needs a little practice to get right... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
steve@cornwall 100 Posted November 5, 2006 I've tried several balljoint splitters (for the tapered variety) over the years and none have given me full satiafaction. For the last 10 or so I have worked very happily using the "Two Hammer" method. It works perfectly for me and I have two identical 4lb club hammers I keep just for this job. Never once let me down nor caused any damage either to boot or housing... There is a technique to doing it this way that needs a little practice to get right... short,sharp shock with 1 decent hammer should suffice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,675 Posted November 5, 2006 err, not when its the lower arm to hub balljoint! just loosen the bolts and pull down! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted November 7, 2006 Never needed one for the balljoint, especially on the GTi. Usually free to come out when the bolt is removed. I use a large screwdriver to get it moving if needed but usually they pull free by hand. On a base model I used to use an old handbrake cable through the strut tops & looped under the lower pring plate to hold the shock compressed. My version of the Pug wires. For track rod ends I use one similar to this; Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
