Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Ahl

Wheel Bearing Information

Recommended Posts

jimmi

Cheers men - as I thought - just making sure !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jimmi

what is the correct torque-ing up procedure /torque figures when fitting new 1.9 axle pins and new bearings ? Is it ok to torque up with new bearing in situ to pull the pin fully home or should pin be tightened fully home before bearing is fitted ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

I press them in, but if you are pulling them in by the threads it's probably wise to pull the stub axle home with a bit of tube and a nut and then fit the bearing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jimmi

Tom the arms are still on beam on car so will I pull pins in using spacer /drift once I remove them from the freezer. I recall reading somewhere to torque bearing up to 200 + lb/ft the slacken and re-torque to 160 lb/ft is that correct ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

I'll be honest and say no idea. I do them up FT with a big bar and/or rattle them up solid with the gun and always have done. Never had an issue doing so, although I'm sure there will be a proper torque setting somewhere in the Haynes book.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ozymandis

I press them in, but if you are pulling them in by the threads it's probably wise to pull the stub axle home with a bit of tube and a nut and then fit the bearing.

This

 

I once stripped one trying to pull it in against a new bearing, only a little of the threads available at first and its not enough.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Motorsport Artist

I'm just fitting new rear hubs to my project car. The correct torque setting for the rear hub according to the Haynes manual is 159 Ibf ft or 215 Nm. This seems a lot of pressure on the rubber seal on the back of the hub and I wonder if the hub would turn freely. Can anyone confirm this torque setting is correct for a disc braked rear axle please. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

sounds about right, the seal wont be touching anything other than the bearing itself.

 

a new bearing will be fairly tight, what with friction from a new seal and fresh grease.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Motorsport Artist

Has anyone got any pics of what the whole hub assembly onto the stub axle should look like. I've fitted new hubs from Pug1Off but as soon as I start to tighten the hub nut the hub stops rotating. I can't imagine getting anywhere near 159 Ibf ft and am wondering if I've done something wrong? I can't find anything on the forum to help really. Thanks folks. Fran

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jimmi

Did you replace the pins/axles ? .... If so, are fully home in the arms and if you've disc brakes the pins should be approx 132mm in length overall ? Drum Brake pins are shorter. Lastly, If you have'nt replaced the pins - have you checked that the pins/axles are not bent ?

Sequence of parts when fitting is: Rear bearing seal disc ( mates up against rubber seal at rear of hub), then bearing/hub assembly (which should slide onto the pin sufficiently to leave threads visible ) , then the washer, then the nut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Motorsport Artist

Thanks for the response Jim. I discovered that I had put the metal collar on the stub axle (the one straight after the back plate) the wrong way round. SImple things eh! Correcting this enabled me to torque up the hubs correctly and easily with the hubs still spinning freely. The trailing arms are new with machined faces for 3 degrees of camber so I'm now onto fitting my new thicker torsion bars thanks to Pug1Off who continue to be mega helpful with my build and have just built my new 240bhp GTI 6 engine. I'm really grateful for all of the advice from people on this excellent forum so thank you again. Fran

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
retroriley

SKF VKBA1405 (for a Non ABS 1.9 GTi) can be bought from Amazon.co.uk

 

When I looked this morning they were available at £74.19 each delivered but this could change as I just ordered two.

 

There's a 2 - 5 week waiting list but that was the case when I last ordered this part from Amazon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

that's rather expensive, probably three times as much as I'd be willing to spend!

 

Carparts4less list SNR at £28.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allanallen

Have to agree that's a bit dear! Im yet to have a bad report on the BRT boxed 'Korea' bearings at £24+vat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ArthurH

We are struggling to remove the outer-race of the SNR bearings fitted to the rear drums of our 1.6GTI.  On one side, the circlip came out reasonably OK, but the outer-race won't budge.  On the other side, we can't even get the circlip to move!  Are we missing something obvious?  Is there a specific technique?

 

TiA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

tap it all the way around with a punch to loosen it, circlip pliers should shift it without too much trouble, they shouldn't be rusted in like a front clip can be

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ArthurH

Thanks Mei, we have left the circlip/slot soaking in PlusGas since yesterday, tonight we'll try tapping it as you describe.  How about the outer race?  Are they pressed in from the outside to a face on the inner side of the drum?  If so, how do you knock/press them back out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

leave the inner race in place and press them out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now

×