What Will Need Changing When Fitting A New Engine?

[Grim.Badger 15]

I'm hoping to fit a new engine soon (if its still available); it will be rebuilt but bare so no manifolds or injectors or anything. It will also need the sump and oil pump off my old engine.

Given that the old engine is 115k old what will definitely need changing? The gearbox was off a while back so I'm not sure if I need a new input shaft seal, the exhaust gaskets are only a couple of months old as is the sump gasket.

I'd prefer to change as little as possible to keep costs down so if someone could tell me what usually needs changing on cars of this age when swapping engines I'd appreciate it

I'm not really interested in what I should do whilst the engine is out, just things that will have to be replaced.

 

Cheers

[luggy 13]

When I did the HG on mine at about 110k, Replaced valve stem seals, decoked the head and valves, relapped the valve seats, head skim. Changed both crank/driveshaft seals, clutch, thrust bearing, got the flywheel skimmed and replaced the water pump and timing belt. IMO anything less is false economy unless your selling it.

 

Whats wrong with your old engine?

 

Luggy

Edited October 11, 2006 by luggy

[Grim.Badger 15]

Well iirc the new engine was rebuilt 10k ago with new liners, reground crank, new valves etc, the works basically. I've been offered it for £100.

Mines puffs out a lot of oil and has an exhaust stud snapped in the head. It's bottom end is also possibly on the way out and I think it may have been run pinking for a quite a while.

My clutch is new and the flywheel was skimmed at the same time so no problems there. I'm not bothering fixing the old engine when it comes out, but I will be dismantling it to see how it all goes together

[luggy 13]

1.Mines puffs out a lot of oil

 

2. Has an exhaust stud snapped in the head

 

3. It's bottom end is also possibly on the way out

 

4. I think it may have been run pinking for a quite a while.

 

1.Do a compression test, if they're good I wouldnt bother swapping the engine, stem seals probably knackered just take the head off the old one and get it reconditioned

 

2.sort it out when you take the head off

 

3.If it aint broken dont fix it, 115k aint that much for the bottom end.

 

4.Compression test should tell all.

 

Has the guy got receipts for the work actually done?, dont bother if he hasnt. Im not trying do dissuade you from buying the engine Im just trying to highlight the fact that you could possibly buying more trouble and you'd be better off fixing the problems on your current engine. If you are going to buy make sure you dont sell your old one just in case.

Edited October 11, 2006 by luggy

[hengti 2]

i was thinking along same lines as Luggy when i read earlier

you're often best off with a known good engine; the problems you've listed aren't a big deal and wouldn't warrant an engine swap imo.

you can actually have the stem seals done with the head still on and you might even be able to get the stud out without taking the head off too. as above - don't worry about the bottom end unless it's actually noisy. pinking won't kill an engine until it actually kills it either - just have it set up properly.

 

i've not done an engine swap in mine (the original's still going at over 200k), but have done half a dozen or more in the last car i ran - you always end up spending a fortune on 'bits' - the price of the engine is often only the tip of the iceberg so to speak.

[Grim.Badger 15]

Cheers for the responses.

He doesn't have reciepts for all the work but he is a regular member on here. If I'm going to have to spend loads on bits then I might leave it and get the head off mine and change the stem seals etc. I presume that if I left it in place I'd need to take the cam out anyway?

A compression test a while ago (before it started smoking so much) on a cold engine (haven't got around to doing it hot) showed >200psi on all cylinders and roughly similar.

I take it that any engine specialist should be able to get the stud out easily if the head is off the engine?

[westy 0]

As others have said, the better the devil you know

 

Compression test should tell you

[luggy 13]

1. I presume that if I left it in place I'd need to take the cam out anyway?

 

2. I take it that any engine specialist should be able to get the stud out easily if the head is off the engine?

 

1. Cam has to come off to replace the stem seals.

 

2. Would be weary of any engine specialist who couldnt.

 

Luggy