Kennyb 0 Posted September 21, 2006 Just taken my new 205 to the rolling road to get it tunned and tested. Never been to this tunner's before so thought i'd give it a try. This 1.9 i have has kent cams, vernier wheel, power boost valve, induction kit and has forged pistons and has had a full rebuild 7000 miles ago. Now i took it to him, and he tunned it, then stuck it on the road and told me that it was running 90bhp at the wheels!! wtf??!?! is this right?!?? have i under a ton layed on the tarmac. Can anyone tell me if this is the right amount. i Thought it was 130? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ada205 2 Posted September 21, 2006 (edited) Can anyone tell me if this is the right amount. i Thought it was 130? Yes, standard 1.9's normally make in the 90's at wheels, but your's is'nt standard! The 130bhp(actually 128) figure you hear about all the time for 1.9's is the fly wheel figure, and even good 1.9's very rarely make this figure when on the rollers anyway. Though it'll be a painfull read if you've spent a load of your hard ernt cash on your mod's, it's well worth a click here to see what Puma has to say on tuning 8v's. Edited September 22, 2006 by ada205 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 22, 2006 Just taken my new 205 to the rolling road to get it tunned and tested. Never been to this tunner's before so thought i'd give it a try. This 1.9 i have has kent cams, vernier wheel, power boost valve, induction kit and has forged pistons and has had a full rebuild 7000 miles ago. Now i took it to him, and he tunned it, then stuck it on the road and told me that it was running 90bhp at the wheels!! wtf??!?! is this right?!?? have i under a ton layed on the tarmac. Can anyone tell me if this is the right amount. i Thought it was 130? so from that lot the only item that would actually help to increase the power over standard is the Kent cam (if its the right one) a versier cam wheel just helps with the tuning, Power boost valve is crap, and the induction kit only sharpens throttle response. 90bhp seems to be the average for most good 1.9 8v's, a 100 or so would be the ideal figure taking into accout transmission losses. also, if you took it there to be tuned what was it running before it was tuned to 90bhp? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kennyb 0 Posted September 22, 2006 so from that lot the only item that would actually help to increase the power over standard is the Kent cam (if its the right one) a versier cam wheel just helps with the tuning, Power boost valve is crap, and the induction kit only sharpens throttle response. 90bhp seems to be the average for most good 1.9 8v's, a 100 or so would be the ideal figure taking into accout transmission losses. also, if you took it there to be tuned what was it running before it was tuned to 90bhp? Not sure what it was running before it was tunned the guy should really have done a road test first i reckon then one after tunning to show me he deserves the cash!! thats what i think anyway I also have a 50bhp nos wet system in the car so it looks like im gonna be burning a bit more of that Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted September 22, 2006 Which rolling road was it and did you get a flywheel figure, and what's your torque figure? Any graphs you can post up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boombang 2 Posted September 22, 2006 Did you buy the car like that as forged pistons is very strange thing to have unless running a very high compression, highly tuned engine that you need stable at high revs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
j_turnell 137 3 Cars Posted September 22, 2006 Not being funny but it does sound like bit of a "pub talk" engine spec. Maybe best to look into the engine in a little bit more detail, find out what model of kent cam, and if it has forged pistons, see what compression its running, if its not the pt36 you should be getting some extra power, sounds like the cam timing is wrong. But as already said for a normal 1.9 that is the average figure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TEKNOPUG 3 Posted September 22, 2006 Did you buy the car like that as forged pistons is very strange thing to have unless running a very high compression, highly tuned engine that you need stable at high revs. My thoughts exactly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kennyb 0 Posted September 22, 2006 Yeah bought the car as is. The guy said when it was built it was built with the nos system in mind so thats why the forged pistons etc to cope with the extra power the wizards of noz system gave. The guy at the rolling road didn't give me s**t!!! no graph print out, no bhp flywheel reading no torque amount!!! just a photocopied paper with the emissions and a couple of other things biro'd in My thing is paint and bodywork tho so im not mega graduated on the old engine scene but i a least know ore then the average (i hope) The place i got it done was at RE PERFORMANCE CENTRE in bury,nr manchester (never been there before) o Yeah car was running fine on tik over before it went .man said it was running too lean fiddled then it started havin a varied tik over when he finished. Now it tiks at bout 5-600 and stales when you drop throttle at a junction. He said that the air flow meter is worn and they can recon it for me?? What do you guys think about that??? I know air flows can cause this problem as i've had it before but to suddenly start doing it?? (im not sure at all ) Im of to skip browns next time,its a bit further but at least hes gonna know his stuff, anyone else been mr browns? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
welshpug 1,657 Posted September 22, 2006 Skip Browns has a very good reputation, your engine should tick over at 850-900 when warm so tweak out the air screw on the throttle body once youve got it warmed up, that should stop the stalling if the guy re-set the fuelling. as for the airflow meter, get yourself up to Skip's place, tell them youve been advised to get the AFM checked, a good remanufactured one is £150 from STP, theyre re-manufactured not reconditioned which means the parts inside and the pivots are brand new not just cleaned up and painted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kennyb 0 Posted September 22, 2006 Skip Browns has a very good reputation, your engine should tick over at 850-900 when warm so tweak out the air screw on the throttle body once youve got it warmed up, that should stop the stalling if the guy re-set the fuelling. as for the airflow meter, get yourself up to Skip's place, tell them youve been advised to get the AFM checked, a good remanufactured one is £150 from STP, theyre re-manufactured not reconditioned which means the parts inside and the pivots are brand new not just cleaned up and painted. Cheers welshpug n everyone else Im saving now for a couple of wks then off to skips Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PumaRacing 2 Posted September 22, 2006 Cheers welshpug n everyone else Im saving now for a couple of wks then off to skips Save your money because no other tuner is going to find a big chunk of extra power hiding in the engine because it doesn't exist. I'll make a few predictions. If it does have a Kent cam then it'll be the PT36 and that's no better, if anything slightly worse than standard. If it does have forged pistons because of a NOS system then there's a good chance the compression ratio has been reduced. That would explain why it doesn't tick over very well unless the fuel is adjusted away from the expected book settings and also why it is 10 bhp down on standard power. So the first thing you want to do is a compression test to see if the figures look reasonable for a standard engine. If they're low then you've saved the cost of another rolling road session because there'd be no point doing one until the engine is rebuilt or modified properly. Anyone with a suspected engine problem should be getting the same advice on here but rarely does. Always start with the basics. Compression test, check cam timing, valve clearances, ignition timing. Only if the engine is in a good state of health is it ever worth throwing money at setting it up better. And read my website. That's what it's there for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kennyb 0 Posted September 22, 2006 ahhhh maybe, Cheers puma racing dude im reading it now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevec205gti 0 Posted September 26, 2006 Also have a search on here for AFM refurbishing - it's very simple and you can do it yourself in half an hour. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dream Weaver 2 Posted September 26, 2006 Sorry to hear of the troubles Kenny Never used RE before, though i've been there to buy stuff. Welcome to the board though, especially as your local (im in Barrowford) I would say look out for my Miami 1.9 but its rarely on the road Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gazzer 1 Posted September 26, 2006 mine made 123bph @ wheels but dont know what its had done . now spare as im going the mi route. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dee205 3 Posted September 26, 2006 mine made 123bph @ wheels but dont know what its had done . now spare as im going the mi route. I think i'd be leaving it in the car if it was putting out that. That's around 150ish at the flywheel which is a good improvment over standard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites