kevcomdude 0 Posted September 3, 2006 Ok took my 1.6 gti pug for an MOT before I sell it, so that I would get more of a response with 12 months MOT. It failed on two things; 1) The aim of the O/S front light was to high and too far to the right (have fixed this no problem) 2) The rear brakes, are braking uneven. I replaced the drum pads about 6 months ago and noticed one of the master cylinders was weaping, but not too much to effect the braking. So after it failed I thought it must be this, so replaced it same day and asked if they could test again. this time they said the difference in the braking was worse ????? The only thing I can think of is that the master cylinder on the other side needs replacing too. So I have done this and plan to take it back this Wednesday to do the whole bloody MOT thing again. Is there anyway I could test the brake strength and application or would there be another problem ? before I take it back again and may end up loosing another 40 quid ??? p.s. all the brake lines are fine, and servo is ok too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy 191 Posted September 3, 2006 Bleed it again, i've often found bleeding it a second time sorts it. But if the cylinder's been weeping and it's got onto the shoes, they're scrap and severely degrease the drums before fitting new shoes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jim21070 2 Posted September 3, 2006 (edited) Agree fully with Sandy... Also check that self-adjusters are working (they often don't) and that the handbrake cables are correctly adjusted. Both will cause uneven braking on the rear. Girling self-adjusters are a lot worse than DBA Bendix ones for not playing. Girling ones have the threaded bolt with a ratchet on it. The ratchet is operated by a triangular shaped pawl plate which often looses its temper and needs a gentle bend to make it contact the ratchet reliably. Have the adjuster mechanisms out and give them a good clean-up but don't lubricate the threads of the self-adjusters. Do check they work easily though with no binding on the threads along their whole travel. Also "help" the self-adjusters on their way by giving them a bit of pre-adjustment before putting on the drums. Bendix self-adjustes have a rack ratchet and are better. Again clean it all up really well, check the mechanism is working freely and that the tension spring on the adjuster is in good nick. Adjust the handbrake cables by slackening the compensator nut by the lever until the pips on the operating arms just contact the brake shoes (with the handbrake off!). Put the drums back on, pump the pedal a few times to get the self-adjusters to take up the slack, pull up the handbrake 5 notches and adjust the compensator nut to lock up the brakes. Check that the handbrake fully releases with the handbrake off. Test the handbrake by pulling it up tight and checking you can torque up the wheel studs against it. 1.6 drums (especially Girlings when working right) are very good indeed. Hope that helps a bit... Edited September 3, 2006 by jim21070 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevcomdude 0 Posted September 6, 2006 thanks peoples I replaced both master cylinders, and my housemate "kyepan" was kind enough to give me some slightly worn pads for the side that was leaking. I have made sure that the ratchet is working and hopefully today MOT day it will pass and I can sell my little baby. Again thanks for the advise Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
