Rik 0 Posted August 20, 2006 I'm currently in the process of making up my manifold to fit GSXR carbs, I'll be using the original manifold cut down, and mated using samco or similar hoses. As the GSXR bodies are a fair bit out from the original mi16 manifold and i dont want to seperate the T/B's i thought i could heat up and bend the manifold to match up to the T/B's. I understand that i can just use samcos, without bending the pipe but i'd rather do it this way. I'll be using a steel rod to support the inlet flange as that could easily bend that and not the actual pipes. So i was going to use an oxy/acetalene torch to heat it up and some sort of big bar a similar size to the pipes to bend it into position. Does anyone have any thought or opinions on this, or even some tips to help me out. P.S While writing this i've thought i could take it to a professional pipe bender - but i'm thinking the manifold may not be easy to place in a jig etc?? Rik Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonmurgie 2 Posted August 20, 2006 I would be concerned about it possibly warping the mating face and therefore never sealing up to the head properly again... just use silicone hoses like others have done TBH... they are also a bit cheaper from http://www.siliconhoses.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rik 0 Posted August 20, 2006 Thats what i mean by the steel rod (it was hard to explain), infact it will be more of a plate with the same stud pattern on so i can bolt it to it. Rik Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3Evo 0 Posted August 21, 2006 Think it will either just kink the runners, or just as it begins to soften, it will tear like a piece of toffee. If it was steel or fabricated aluminium you might have a better chance, but bending a casting is almost certainly gonna end in a useless manifold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted August 21, 2006 I agree that the aluminium will definitely fracture. A better method is to cut and shut. Hacksaw almost all the way through, leaving just the wall thickness at the bottom. Bend the manifold, inserting a drill shank at the top as you continue to open it up. Stop when you get to the desired angle. If you need say a 7mm drill at the top to get the desired angle, that's how much you need to chop off down the bottom. Break the manifold off, take off the desired amount, then TIG back together! You won't be able to bend much more than 9-10mm before it fractures anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PumaRacing 2 Posted August 21, 2006 Don't bother trying. Forged aluminium, which is how all tube and bar is made, is relatively ductile. Cast aluminium is very brittle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rik 0 Posted August 21, 2006 Probably going to be better to just use the samco/hose method then! Forgot about it being cast Alu, the cut and shut method sounds good, but i dont really understand what Peter has explained, i'd of thought it would just be easier to chop it off and file/cut the correct angle where its been cut then TIG back on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3Evo 0 Posted August 22, 2006 (edited) Don't bother trying. Forged aluminium, which is how all tube and bar is made, is relatively ductile. Cast aluminium is very brittle. When you say 'forged' do you actually mean 'extruded' or 'drawn'? Yowza! Claws away Edited August 22, 2006 by M3Evo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugrallye 0 Posted August 22, 2006 think your gonna have to separate the bodies, as bending cast ally is a big no no Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
