[car_upgrade] 2.0l Turbo Conversion With A Euro Rallye Flavour

[kuuner 56 2 Cars]

Hey Sam,

 

sorry i didn't get back your topic in time. I was to busy

 

You have to get another valance or another ic just joking.

 

What i first did, was to cut the original valance. See here:option 1

 

I ended with this: option 2 As you can see, i only used the top of the ic. The other side was covered it is very dificult to match a good ic with my own valance. And yours is smaller (i think)

 

The last option was working great for about 5.000 miles... then they crashed my car And now the engine is in my dimma... and i have another setup for it now. I had one specialy built for the dimma. Cost a lot, but the efficiency is much better.

 

Koen.

Edited April 5, 2006 by kuuner

[Ant 2]

Sam,

 

Drop your Rad and Cowling about 6 inchs. The cossy intercooler sits okay behind your grill....

 

It needs to sit right alligned, and you need to fabricate some 2 1/2 inch pipes to link up.

 

I thought i had piccies with me, but i havent. Ill get u some for 2mz.

 

Bad news is, you dont need all the shiny pipes..

 

Thats how i did it anyway. The cossy IC sticks out stupidly into the bumper, hence why its behind the grill

 

Ant

[sonofsam 5]

Hi Koen,no worries ...so have i

 

 

 

Not quite 'Maxi' time yet,but just over three hours to drop it out ,i was happy with that.

Just started refitting new fuel and brake lines and a big brake conversion for the fronts..then i'll fit up a MI flywheel and clutch

and give Miles a shout to rebuild me a 1.9 gearbox with turbo diesel final drive.

and after a little bit of bulkhead banging the engine can go back in

had a look at extending the lower mount fork by 10mm aswell,should give a bit more clearence for the downpipe.

I'll worry about IC location when the time comes

 

 

Cheers

Sam.

[Ant 2]

Heres my IC location. Not bracketed up properly yet. Just finished making brackets for the rad.. So ignore the cable ties. They were just a guide.

 

Only ball ache when doing this was that i had made up all the water hoses etc, only have to extend them when i lowered the rad

 

 

[kuuner 56 2 Cars]

hey,

 

that is also an option. Some guy in the Netherlands did that almost the same. See here; Martijn's trackcar But he couldn't/didn't place the original gril anymore.

 

 

What do you mean with "lower mount fork". Do you mean this 'thing' on photo?

 

 

 

Yes, you have to bent it.

 

Koen

[sonofsam 5]

Hi,Yes i've seen that method done quite a few times on here.

I'd rather mess about with pipes and hoses than cut about the front crossmember though,i dont have acces to a welder,,but have lots of pipes

The lower mount fork i was refering to is the lower engine mount fork that attaches to the subframe from the uprated mounting,extended it swings the bottom of the engine outwards to allow a bit more clearence for the exhaust.

I did'nt bend my gear-linkage,i just knocked out the ball joint and re-attached it underneath,still might shave that annoying long torx head a bit though.

Yes got rid of my big IC fetish,will be going for something smaller,less 90 degree bends,but more 45's and a few subtle changes to the bumper.

Martijns track car looks superb,and the pics of the downpipe will no doubt help,cheers.that must be quite new on Macs site then,i have;nt checked it for a while.

luckily the valance i have sticks out a far way,so im sure its not going to be to much effort to reroute a few pipes,may even change the silicone for black instead of blue,as suggested on here and use a few stainless steel bends(near the radiator) i will no doubt have left over from the exhaust build.

I really fancy the IC in the centre of the valance,there is a big hole there,it needs filling with something.

Ant,good pictures man,glad to see your cracking on nicely,what stage you at next?

 

Sam.

[kuuner 56 2 Cars]

You don't have to relocate the lower engine mount fork. is used one of a 205 diesel instead. This one is stronger than the orignal.

 

Greets

[Ant 2]

Hi,Yes i've seen that method done quite a few times on here.

I'd rather mess about with pipes and hoses than cut about the front crossmember though,i dont have acces to a welder,,but have lots of pipes

The lower mount fork i was refering to is the lower engine mount fork that attaches to the subframe from the uprated mounting,extended it swings the bottom of the engine outwards to allow a bit more clearence for the exhaust.

I did'nt bend my gear-linkage,i just knocked out the ball joint and re-attached it underneath,still might shave that annoying long torx head a bit though.

Yes got rid of my big IC fetish,will be going for something smaller,less 90 degree bends,but more 45's and a few subtle changes to the bumper.

Martijns track car looks superb,and the pics of the downpipe will no doubt help,cheers.that must be quite new on Macs site then,i have;nt checked it for a while.

luckily the valance i have sticks out a far way,so im sure its not going to be to much effort to reroute a few pipes,may even change the silicone for black instead of blue,as suggested on here and use a few stainless steel bends(near the radiator) i will no doubt have left over from the exhaust build.

I really fancy the IC in the centre of the valance,there is a big hole there,it needs filling with something.

Ant,good pictures man,glad to see your cracking on nicely,what stage you at next?

 

Sam.

 

Well ive done the engine mount, alternator mount, all the water hosing now etc.

 

I had to do the water piping again, as i relocated the rad. Im hopefully picking up a 45 degree pie tomorrow for the IC.. BUT my welder blew up last week, so i cant weld the IC pipes or the exhaust until i get a new one. Hopefully get one 2moz

 

Then i just need to fire it up

[sonofsam 5]

You don't have to relocate the lower engine mount fork. is used one of a 205 diesel instead. This one is stronger than the orignal.

 

Greets

 

I think a few people on here had to,to gain clearence on the master cylinder,you probally dont have to beacuase of your left hand drive motor.

I was only toying with with the idea when i was underneath the car swinging the engine back and forth.

Whats this diesel mount you are using then,are we talking bush ?

 

Sam.

 

Well ive done the engine mount, alternator mount, all the water hosing now etc.

 

I had to do the water piping again, as i relocated the rad. Im hopefully picking up a 45 degree pie tomorrow for the IC.. BUT my welder blew up last week, so i cant weld the IC pipes or the exhaust until i get a new one. Hopefully get one 2moz

 

Then i just need to fire it up

 

Cool,can you weld alli pipe,or you using S/S

 

...So just the wiring to go then,good luck dude,will give you as much help as i can

 

Sam.

[sonofsam 5]

,will be on the road in no time at all.........If it all goes aswell as this did this afternoon.

 

 

 

doing the rear's tommorow,jeez its a long bit of pipe for them,certainly going to be entertaining!!

nearly had brake fluid in the eye from removing the old rear pipes,damn 'Bo selacta'safety glasses kept steaming up

[Ant 2]

Sam,

 

Im using steel. Ive just finished making up my IC pipes this weekend. i just need some rubber hosing now.

 

I think you might struggle with a cossy IC in the front of your valance. The IC is about 6" wide ( including the link pipes sticking out ) - Add onto that the 90degree bends to allow the flow ( otherwise ur pipes will be going through the rad !!! ) and the totoal width is about 8 - 9 "s !!!! - Sticks out way in front of the 205 bumper . only way around it would be having a smaller rad i think

 

Hence, why mines mounted where the grill way..

 

The engine mount is easy to do. I just added about 1.5 cm on the mount. You can get a good arc welder from machine mart. About £55.. With a bit of practise, im sure it would come in handy

 

Ant

[sonofsam 5]

yeh i think i may struggle a bit,but saying it cant be done without the use of a smaller rad,makes me want to do it even more

cheers for the dimensions,silicone hose's can be cut back a fair amount to adjust the curve.

might be lucky and get IC sitting on the lip/splitter a bit

 

 

 

I was warned off using rubber hoses as they may expand a bit too much under pressure,i may be wrong though !! never tested any

 

55 notes,well my birthday is coming up,and the GF said a petrol skateboard was a bit out of reach,

Thanks Ant think you have just me my pressy done a bit of spot-welding before and use gas-bottles all the time,sure i could grasp a bit of welding

 

 

 

Next on the list is new accelarator cable,using a 405 one,think i mashed the 205 one when i tryed to lengthen it,might aswell put in a new clutch and speedo cable and fuel filter when im at it too,and extend the petrol return line.

looking forward to seeing some engine bay pics of yours mate,is it going to be fully driveable once conversion is finished?

 

Sam.

Edited April 10, 2006 by sonofsam

[sonofsam 5]

Although somedays can be a right bitch working on the car,the satisfaction factor can boot that out the window

 

Is this looking ok?,never been this far into a 205 let alone renovated.

 

New hubs did'nt take long to go rusty

 

These are a nice fit,once you've figured out wich corner is wich,was slighly baffled there for a seconed

 

1.6 to 1.9 brakes,been looking at the Constella big brake kit for the fronts,any-one used them before?

 

 

Cheers All

[paul205mi16 4]

lookin good m8, and lookin forward to seeing the finished results,some good pics though and turbo'ing a 205 is something of a posibility for me in the future. I would have thought that some dust gaurds would be a good idea for them rear dampers tbh,cant wait for more progress , as im sure you cant either!

Paul.

Edited April 15, 2006 by paul205mi16

[sonofsam 5]

Cheers Paul,its been about 13 months since i've driven,completion cant come soon enough.

Rear beam mounts need dropping out again anyway,slight bit of rust underneath them.Dust guards is that the rubber boot that goes round the piston,i have so many little trays full of bits and bobs i probally got some some were,what do they look like?

Next on the list is..

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

1.6 to 1.9 brakes,been looking at the Constella big brake kit for the fronts,any-one used them before?

must be the same sort of thing as Autofive's big disc kit (check the article on the main website).

 

don't forget to ask for a discount with Constella (check the group buys subforum).

 

p.s. are those wheels Compomotive MO's (strange center cap) and in what size?

 

thanks.

[sonofsam 5]

Yes it is pretty much the same as the Autofive one,just a fair bit cheaper,made me wonder about the quality thats all.I wont forget about the discount

 

Sure are Compomotive Mo's Cybernck..the guy i bought them from had them advertised as 16x6.5j,but when they turned up they were 5.5j....Ar well still a bargain dont know about the center cap,never seen them before either

 

Sam.

[sonofsam 5]

Hi Folks,Id like to say a big thankyou to the Sunshine and the South Coast,big up,my SAD has lifted

and things are looking sweet.

Projects rolling on nicely,had a couple of questions for the 2L turbo clan

 

Decided to strip down my engine loom and main harness a fair bit,chop of plugs that were'nt needed(i hope) ! i heat shrinked all wire ends and tape back up the loom and put back on what seemed to be

a fire blanket,got hold of some fire retardent electrical tape to seal the conduit back up with,jobs a good'un

 

 

Main harness Looks alot more user freindly now,im sure there is still lots more you could take out.

 

Engine harness i didnt need to touch apart from splits in the injector plugs wich i taped up for good measure.

 

To the questions if i may.

 

1) how does your main harness snake around in the engine bay?,had mine running under front cross member,or would it better to run it clipped up top underneath scuttle panel area behind brake lines?2) could someone tell me wich side of the intercooler boost pipes the idle control valve plumbs into,hot or cold side,i had it cold side and the engine was idling perfectly,nice change being an 8v .

 

Cheers

Sam.

[sonofsam 5]

looking stock ready to go back in

 

new water pump,belt and tensioner

 

!!!

[sonofsam 5]

Following on from poeples gleaming 'n beaming car threads of wich i have enjoyed, thought i'd have a go too

But unfortunately my car body-work is a bit rough to say the least, different kind of polishing for me, hope these will suffice

Finally got my arse in gear( quite literally ) and laid some carpet underneath the car so i could

have a good roll around underneath and try and make something that resembled a exhaust.

 

2.5" S/ST DP awaiting welding, i polished it on the ID..i couldnt help myself

 

The nice straight easy bit.

 

Janspeed 61mm Straight through perforated backbox.

 

Prototype outwardly rolled tailpipe in M/ST..Didnt have the energy to bend Stainless this moring

 

Im guessing this little lot *may* be quite loud even with the turbo acting as a silencer think i'll put a muffler inline too if it is silly dB.

Local firm to me is doing all the welding, 'Mick the master' so im not looking forward to price tag however if i plan this right it should be a three piece system.

Still to sort is the hump section over the beam, all hangers and the lambda boss.

 

Sam.

 

P.s i have one more polised picture but would need to issue a government warning first .

[Rob Turbo 3]

Hump over the beam?

 

Mine went straight under!

[sonofsam 5]

Cool, thought it may need a funny angle to go under then back up again to the backbox, havnt got that far anyway.

[inferno 1]

looking good...

 

just one thing you should be aware of, if you use a standard t25 it will not like a full straigt through pipe!

 

mine was 2.25inch all the way from the flange at the manifold, and due to the oil seals disign they leaked oil on idle. this results in lot of smoke unless u keep the revs up to around 2k in traffic, when at 2k its flowing enough air to push the seals back in place.

 

an uprated turbo with stepped seals solves this problem.

[sonofsam 5]

Cheers I'll keep that in mind Anyone else had this problem?

In a year or so time it will have a TT manifold and maybe a hybrid T25 or a GT28 so will have to redisign the DP anyway

[M3Evo 0]

I've got a pair of T25s both with a straight through 2" pipe into a twin straight through silencer.

 

It's not too loud at all and they don't smoke.

 

Don't think you really ought to be relying on pressure in the exhaust to keep the turbo oil tight TBH!