Head Bolts

[NoodleVille 0]

hi i have just purchased a 205 gti 1.9 for 300 with the top end rebuild i posted before believing the bolt that was sheared was a crank bolt

 

incorrect it is a head bolt that has snapped sheared off inside the bottom end

 

i am just looking for some advice as 2 the best way to either remove the bolt or rethreading or new bottom end

 

the head is off at the moment along with cams and air intake and stuff basically just the bottom end and gearbox left in

 

i have a few options that could be done this saturdays i am going to attempt to drill the bolt out i have a spare 1.9 engine in the garage and could put the bottom end in. i also wondering if i could use a short head bolt ie cut on to the size needed as only about an inch of the bolt remains in the bottom end and it is the furthest down point. about cm out the bottom of the bolt hole.

 

what are the dangers of running withought a head bolt as this is a track car and i really want it running asap

 

If your looking at the engine stood in front the head bolt that is snapped is the second in from the left

 

i also dont really want to remove the gearbox as i find driveshafts a pain to do is there anyway to get the bottom end out withough removing the gearbox ?????

 

i have very little experience with pug engines and i am hopeing this little mission will help me understand them a bit better

 

any help with this will be very much appreciated i did a search but diddnt come up with anything like i said i will be starting this saturday and hopefully have it done in 2 days cheers guys

[arry 0]

if there's nothing of it sticking out, maybe a torx tool would do the trick - ie battering one into it and seeing if you can unwind it

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

i had the same thing happen to me and had to drill it out and have a insert in the gap below where the bolt comes out made up ( m11 bolt thread ,tricky ) , but never got to test it as i have decided to scrap the engine and go for 16v power . head bolt are a pain to drill out cos unless you get it dead centre and keep it that way it will mash the block up . i wouldn't run it without it though especially not on the track

[NoodleVille 0]

the head bolt itself it still slightly sticking out the bottom i dunno mayb if i could get one of those sockets that dig into nuts and hammer a small on of those into it designed for rounded off bolts and which surely is the same sorte thing would heating this area up with a a heat gun of welding flame damage my block i would try that might heelp to loosen the bolt thats in there

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

if there is enough sticking out you might be lucky , get a good pair of mole grips (lockable ones) and heat the block slightly , and as the two metals expand at different rates hopefully you should be able to loosen it and get it out.

good luck

[PumaRacing 2]

hi i have just purchased a 205 gti 1.9 for 300 with the top end rebuild i posted before believing the bolt that was sheared was a crank bolt

 

incorrect it is a head bolt that has snapped sheared off inside the bottom end

 

i am just looking for some advice as 2 the best way to either remove the bolt or rethreading or new bottom end

 

the head is off at the moment along with cams and air intake and stuff basically just the bottom end and gearbox left in

 

i have a few options that could be done this saturdays i am going to attempt to drill the bolt out i have a spare 1.9 engine in the garage and could put the bottom end in. i also wondering if i could use a short head bolt ie cut on to the size needed as only about an inch of the bolt remains in the bottom end and it is the furthest down point. about cm out the bottom of the bolt hole.

 

what are the dangers of running withought a head bolt as this is a track car and i really want it running asap

 

If your looking at the engine stood in front the head bolt that is snapped is the second in from the left

 

i also dont really want to remove the gearbox as i find driveshafts a pain to do is there anyway to get the bottom end out withough removing the gearbox ?????

 

i have very little experience with pug engines and i am hopeing this little mission will help me understand them a bit better

 

any help with this will be very much appreciated i did a search but diddnt come up with anything like i said i will be starting this saturday and hopefully have it done in 2 days cheers guys

 

If the bolt has snapped while being removed it will be because it has corroded into place. Drilling it out by hand is going to be nigh on impossible without some sort of drill guide (what engineers call a drill bush) to locate the drill bit centrally. Otherwise the bit will just wander off the remains of the bolt and into the aluminium at the side. Even drilled out straight it will still probably then need a helicoil insert fitted to repair the thread.

 

Milling the bolt out on a milling machine is the best way when everything can be clocked up dead central and using a milling cutter rather than a drill which will stay central regardless of what it's cutting into. Of course

that requires the block to be out and stripped.

 

You certainly can't run without that bolt or with a shorter one fitted. The head gasket will fail immediately.

 

If you aren't an experienced mechanic or engineer I wouldn't attempt this by hand as it would be very easy to scrap the block. Being a non standard thread size most engineers are unlikely to have the right helicoil kits although most of us who do a lot of Peugeot work have to buy them. Mine was bought for the same task for a customer's engine but has only had to be used that once so far. With the right gear and the block out and stripped it isn't really a hard task on a milling machine. Takes about an hour.

[NoodleVille 0]

the amount sticking out the bottom is the normal amount when the bolts are tightened and the head is on

 

and as for stripping and taking it i have a spare block and no milling equipment lol

 

so i would put the other block in well this sat i am gonna try deffo with the heating eliment in there hopefully the corrosion itself may try to expand and loosen everything off i will deffinatly post up some replys as to how this expodition goes as the replys were fast almost as fast a a working pug

 

cheers for the help guys

 

joe

[markic 0]

when I did my head gasket as i was tightening the head bolt one snapped, I managed so use a nice sharp chisel to put a small groove across the top of the snapped bolt, not too much as it would wedge the snapped bolt in.

 

I then screwed the bolt down till i could see a bit of the bottom of the bolt, sticking out of the hole at the bottom of the thread, I used a dremmel then, to grind off bit by bit the bottom of the snapped bolt untill it'd fit through the cut out

 

It took a while, but perseverance won in the end. I very nearly gave up but didn't, as I didn't have the luxary of a new block.

[petert 587]

As Puma said, if it snapped on the way out, it's due to corrosion. If you aren't going to pull the block out and do it properly, you're going to have to be extremely patient.

 

Step 1: Buy some Penetrene. Soak this around the hole overnight.

 

Step 2: Drill a 6mm hole in the centre of the stud, then belt a larger SnapOn Torx bit into the hole. Not a cheap one.

 

Step 3: Carefully work turn the stud back in tad, not out.

 

Step 4: More Penetrene overnight.

 

Step 5: Work backwards and forwards, maybe a 1/4 a turn at a time

 

Step 6: More Penetrene overnight.

 

Every day you go back to the shed, work the stud a little more.

 

 

 

After doing FOUR M11 helicoils in a butchered block recently, I now rate myself an expert. I'd pull the block out.

 

Assuming you do get it out, you'll still need to clean the thread up with an M11 tap anyway. Before putting the head on, I'd trial a new headbolt in the hole, with a dummy head. If you can't torque it up to at least 60 ftlbs, you'll need to helicoil it.

 

I'd be extra cautious applying heat. If you take it past 160 deg. C you loose the temper then you'll have to let it age harden for another 6 years anyhow.

Edited August 15, 2006 by petert

[PumaRacing 2]

There's also the LAD repair method. Smack the remains of the bolt, and the thread in the block, right out with a big hammer and drift. Put an XUD bolt through the resulting hole with a low tensile nut on the bottom of it and call it an approved repair with OE Peugeot parts. Then keep your fingers crossed.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

I had a head bolt snap off a good 10mm + into the bottom end, it was a pain to drill. In the end I got out my finest snap on extractors started screwing it in, and in, and then bang the extractor snapped.

At this point I did have the extractor in the vice and was turning the block! There was no way of drilling it, so skipped the bottom end.

 

Just a little warning what can happen!

 

Mad

[Gavin Waddell 18]

can you not weld a nut on the bottom part of the bolt and undo it that way?

[NoodleVille 0]

ok had a gooood crack at it yesterday and nothing lol

 

was absoloutly hopeless

 

i managed to get a screw driver stuck in a hole that was drilled out

 

so i am scrapping the bottom end and putting the other one in my garage in.

 

i have no mechanical experience of doing this so hopefully its not that difficult if it is lol then i am in a spot of bother

 

got my battered haynes manual off i go.

 

if nothing else by the time i finishe this little project i should know the engine inside out literaly as the rebuilt top end is int he boot at the moment. just waiting to be run in.