Mi16 Master Cylinder Clearance

[MikeT 0]

My 205 Mi16 is rubbing on the cambelt cover with the master cylinder...been doing it since I bought the car. I would appreciate peoples opinions on how best to fix this. It amazes me that of all the numerous 205 to 16v conversions I have seen the clearance seems to be different on every one even though they have been converted in a similar manner. You'd think same engine going into the same engine bay wouldnt leave such differing results!

 

Mine is really pi**ing me off now on even the slightest right hand bend and I want to sort it out.. even tempted to run with no cam cover if thats what I have to do!! I cant move it over on the mounts - look at the amount of clearance I have at the mo with the alternator belt!! The MC is seriously eating into the Cam cover now and I do worry sometimes about my brakes failing!!

 

Pictures below, I'd appreciate your thoughts. I have read before that you can use a 8v alternator instead which would allow the engine to be shifted over more to the left away from the MC - is this true??

 

http://www.downend.com/backup/DSC00034.JPG

http://www.downend.com/backup/DSC00035.JPG

http://www.downend.com/backup/DSC00036.JPG

 

 

The car is already using Grp N mounts all round.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Edited August 6, 2006 by MikeT

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

It is odd why some hit and some don't, It's got to be down to the tolerances in manufacturing or the master cylinder bodies do vary in size on the odd occasion.

 

The alternator I always use is the 8v one to gain more clearance on the front chassis leg.

 

Have you tryied undoing the gearbox mount nut's (x2 off) and slide the engine over slightly, This can help when there like this.

 

Last resort you can cut some of the cam cover away

Edited August 6, 2006 by Miles

[petert 586]

Put washers under the booster, unevenly, to angle it to the left and upwards. I use three on the bottom RH stud, none on the top LH stud, then two washers on the other two. It's very strange how some work and some don't. The best I've ever done was a very early 1.6L GTi. It had no clearance problems anywhere. I think it's more to do with the tolerances in the positioning of the firewall.

[M3Evo 0]

Seem to recall reading somewhere on the snood that bodywork manufacturing tolerances are (or at least were) something like +-2.5mm or something like that, so the already tight clearance could easily be eaten up by that.

[MikeT 0]

Thanks for your comments. Ill try an 8v alternator first, se if I can shift it over to the left slightly and if that doesn't help I'll try your suggestion peter.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

Shifting over the engine should do it. Like Miles said undo the gearbox mount bolts and use a scaff pole or something similar to move the engine over.

[davemar 16]

I made some spacers to place behind one of the rubber buffers where the engine mount sits. This prevented the engine from rocking back and touching the master cylinder.

[GLPoomobile 958]

What about grinding off some of the MC body where it is touching. I don't know how much material you could take off safely though. Or, could you re-angle the Servo slightly? I'm thinking maybe if you put washers behind the servo at the fixing points, on one side. If the servo was pushed out by 1mm at the outside edge on it's fixing point, that small increase would be exagerated along the length of the servo and MC, and the MC would probably lean far enough in the passenger direction to clear.

[nick 3]

When you move the engine over you might need to "slot" the top drivers side mount a bit as it will strain the rubber.

 

I moved my engine over about 5mm and ground about 3mm off of the cambelt cover which gave plenty of clearance.

 

Nick