Throttle Bodies Or Carbs?

[acox99 74 1 Cars]

im aiming to achieve the 200bhp and above mark with an MI16, its going to be used for track day hill climbs and sprint. what is the best cam choice, and whats better throttle bodies or carbs, ads and dis ads, i know carbs are harder to set up, and throttle bodies look the nuts, not to worried about price difference at this stage, but how does they both change the power band of the engine? etc

 

cheers ali

[Richie-Van-GTi 71 2 Cars]

personally if price isnt an problem then Id go with bodies and good management. Will give you a much nicer power band that you can have tweaked to suit the application and will be a bit more reliable long term over carbs. Cam choice is a tricky one and best left to someone who has an intrinsic knowledge of profiles and lifts etc but bodies with a good map should allow for some pretty lairy cams.

[smckeown 1]

well if you use the search button, you'll find what other people on the forum have achieved and how with their mi16's

[paul wicks 0]

To get the best out of both, you need engine management. If its a daily drivers go for throttle bodies if its a weekend / sprint car then go far carbs. Either gives similar power.

 

You wont crack 200bhp with an Mi16 with just t/b's or carbs, you'll need something extra thrown in to the pot.

[Jonmurgie 2]

Searchy searchy... and definaltey speak to Matt @ QEP as he can sort you out with KMS Throttle Bodies and ECU and CatCams cam for your application and you'll see 200+ easily (but not essentially cheaply!)

 

And for me, it would be TB's over carbs anyday... so much more control and modern compared to carbs

[smckeown 1]

There are plenty more suppliers of TBs and ECUs. Get to know the differences

 

Change the record Jon

[Jonmurgie 2]

Of course ther are I could have recommedned the Jenvey's and MoTeC but to be honest the stuff QEP does IS good value. If the guy's got deep pockets then look about for somewhere to spend more money, I was mearly suggesting a 'one stop shop' solution that I would personally recommend to anyone

[paul wicks 0]

Can thoroughly recommend Catcams, the 283 duration / 10.8 mm lift is what I have, still nice and driveable without having to rev the nuts off it, with enough power low down as well.

Though in a rally / race car you could go for the 283 / 11.5 mm lift varient, any wilder on the catcams profile you need solid lifters etc. I have OMEX ignition only ECU, which can be uprgraded to take t/b's at a later stage.

[smckeown 1]

im aiming to achieve the 200bhp and above mark with an MI16, its going to be used for track day hill climbs and sprint. what is the best cam choice, and whats better throttle bodies or carbs, ads and dis ads, i know carbs are harder to set up, and throttle bodies look the nuts, not to worried about price difference at this stage, but how does they both change the power band of the engine? etc

 

cheers ali

 

I'd say there wouldnt be a MASSIVe difference between the peak power, the curve wil lloo ka little different of course. the real difference is of course cost.

 

The most cost effective way to get decent induction seems to be going for the bike carbs conversion and RR session and setup thrown in for much cheapness. Can't remember the company offering it now, but it seems an absolute steal.

 

Your looking £1500 just to buy TBs and ECU, plus more money (about 2 times i'd say) on setup on the RR.

 

So saying price doesn't matter might be a little inexpedient

 

Also look into the regulations regarding the class you want to compete in; thinking about it any mi16 will be in modified production, you you'll be up against big power

[boombang 2]

I cannot personally recommend Emerald but doesn't Dave Walker offer an all encompassing (aside from installation issues) mapping for £250 + vat?

 

Makes it worthwhile going for Emerald surely?

[petert 587]

TB's with mapped in injection/ignition. Far more streetable. Carbs and linear ignition curves is old school.

[acox99 74 1 Cars]

cheers for the advice guys, i have heard about emerald before and what i heave heard they are pretty good, i have looked a little into classes and if u are changing the standard engine u automatically go in the modified class, the car wont be road worthy so not to worried about driveability at the bottom of the range, what exactly is the difference between a solid lifter and a hydrolic lifter, and how easy is it to change over, when it is solid does it just allow for bigger wilder cams. sorrry guys im bit of an ametuer, picking it up as i go along, best way to learn getting stuck iin at the deep end

 

cheers

[smckeown 1]

some well worth considering items there mate, the beuaty of this forum is that all the information has been covered. We have had some great engine discussion topics, and really knowledgable tuners like PeterT and PumaRacing who are the nuts have added their thoughts, as well as people who have gone through the build process or have modified cars etc, so the info is 1st class. So get searching Sean

Edited July 28, 2006 by smckeown

[Robsbc 0 1 Cars]

recommend Catcams, the 283 duration / 10.8 mm lift is what I have,

 

I presume the figures in you sig now, 223bhp @6951 rpm / 168lb ft torque are with the CAT Cams and recent engine rebuild?

 

Doesn't seem any different to your last spec except you had quoted a very high lbft figure with 270 cams...

 

How do the graphs compare?

Edited September 16, 2006 by Robsbc

[huxley309 0]

I find his figure dubious anyway...i have the 283 catcams with 11.5mm of lift...then again i havent had a proper printout to really determine what she's pushing out