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rooster

No Power To Starter

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rooster

i couldnt get the pug started the other day turn key and nothing no starter :blush:

 

i called the break down people and he checked the battery, nothing wrong he then probed the actuator on the starter ie direct fed it from the battery and hey presto it spun i put the ignition on and started up.

 

today ive looked and found the brown multiplug and rewired the blue wire as per another post and still nothing :blush:

 

disconnected my alarm as per another post nothing :ph34r:

 

so im stumped and miffed, the starter is fine there just is no power to the wire for the actuator when i turn the key. i have run a lead from the ignition in the dash and nothing i do works except touching the wire to the battery direct.

 

any ideas is there a relay to check the one in the fuse box clicks away when i turn the key i cant understand also why a direct feed didnt work :ph34r:

 

its gotta be something daft please help

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Pug_101

Have you got 12V to the starter relay?

I was going to say ignition barrel, but if the relays clicking the barrel must be ok.

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rooster

the relay clicks fine theres just no power getting to the starter

 

its driving me mad

 

its been on and off for a bit and now its just completly gone im thinking a wire but which one and were

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Wurzel

If the direct feed between the battery terminal on the starter motor and the solenoid relay (short the two together) works then it doesn't necessarily rule out problems with the starter unfortunately :blush:

 

I'd check the direct feed from ignition key to solenoid though for good connections. This usually solves the problem or at least diagnoses a tits cable/connection. If you're sure this is good, then move on to the age old gearbox earth under the air flow meter going to the battery negative terminal. Clean it all up with emery cloth and try again.

 

Still nothing, your starter motor is knackered.

 

I've had experience where mine was on it's way out, worked fine when shorting things out but would not start with the key despite endless cleaning and re-crimping of terminals. Different starter had the engine turning over a treat. Now though I still get the odd 'click', 'click' when turning the key but it starts within a couple of tries.

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Paintguy
Now though I still get the odd 'click', 'click' when turning the key but it starts within a couple of tries.

I thought that came as standard, mine does it all the time, lol.

 

It normally doesn't bother me, but I was stopped by a guy the other day who'd seen my car at the Sheffield motor show. He spent ages going on about how good it looked, and what great condition it was in, but when I came to set off - click..click...click :blush:

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rooster

im gonna try cleaning up the earth on the gear box #

 

but i need a solution to bypass the wire straight from the ignition im also gonna buy a proper meter so i can source it

 

any help in laymans terms please :blush:

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luggy

Hi rooster

I had the same problem with mine, turns out the bushes on the starter motor were knackered, swapped it for a new one, new starter installed lasted 2 months, did the direct connection from the solenoid to battery and this was intermittant, and even worse in the hot weather, turns out it was a dodgy solenoid on the new starter.

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Wurzel
I thought that came as standard, mine does it all the time, lol.

 

It normally doesn't bother me, but I was stopped by a guy the other day who'd seen my car at the Sheffield motor show. He spent ages going on about how good it looked, and what great condition it was in, but when I came to set off - click..click...click ;)

 

Exactly Andy, 'Listen to this sweet Mi', "click, click". Sounds ace doesn't it?

 

Still, once it's going, it sounds fine, apart from the large rear pipe.

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Rob_the_Sparky

Odd that a direct feed starts it but not a link from the ignition.

 

What I found on mine with a meter:

 

With the stater motor solenoid connection off (so no load) I had:

 

12V after the ignition

12V after the immobiliser

9V at the starter

 

Given that there was no load from the starter this shows that something else was causing the voltage drop. I never bothered to find out what, just put in a direct wire from after the immobiliser to the starter and piggy backed it with the original at the starter. Never had a problem since...

 

Having said that it is possible you have a buggered starter motor, then no wiring improvement is going to stop it (but it may help). Get a meter and check the wiring...

 

Rob

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rooster

what does the imobilisor look like i have one thats in my alarm system and i suspected i had another somewere but never found it

 

were would it be and would it look like a relay

 

still cant find the solution i can start my car only by opening the bonnet and touching the wire to the battery with the ignition on.

 

after i drove it a bit i tried the key and the starter moved a little as tho there was power then it died

 

im gonna meter the ignition cables and change the barrel theres a power drop or drain somwhere i have cleaned up all the earths in the engine too

 

its doing me head in if i cant solve it ill put a start button in ;) just wont have me remote start ;)

 

any more thoughts would be welcome ^_^

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Rob_the_Sparky

Take off the dash and look at the ignition wiring, somewhere it will be cut and new wires patched in for the immobiliser (to and from the immobiliser relays), just measure either side of the cut to measure before and after the immobiliser.

 

Rob

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rooster

ill have a look

 

i have installed the imobiliser from my alarm near the fuse box i cant say ive seen any other ones near the ignition as i had to put the alarm stuff into the ignition wires for the remote start.

 

ive dragged out my other ignition barrel and im gonna clean up the ignition amp plate etc and earthing that side too.

 

if that dont help then its a start button through a relay soddit :):P

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Pug_101

do you get power through to the starter solinoid lead (I think you do) if you have then alarm stuff is ok.

If so the power may not be enough as Rob said, so put the relay to this wire near the starter switching a direct feed from the battery.

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Wurzel

Something else to remember, you can clean up the contacts as much as you like but very often, the cable going into the crimp itself is badly corroded and causing a high resistance (and therefore voltage drop). I've had to cut back several connections and re crimp on non oxidised conductors.

 

Have you tried putting a new crimp on the solenoid wire? As Rob says though, you really need to measure the voltage at this wire to ensure the feed is good. If it is, you're looking at your starter motor itself.

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Rob_the_Sparky

You can replace random parts all day until you find it, going to take ages...or you could get a meter out and find out what is wrong. That is if you know how to use one, if not then ask and I'll give you some pointers.

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rooster

cheers rob i just bought a meter from maplins for 9.99 from 29.99 looks the biz but im gonna have to read the instructions big time as im a noob on metering :lol:

 

ok heres an update i had to start the car on thurs by opening the bonnet and touch the new wire i put to the solenoid on the battery ( bit embarressing at the petrol station :lol: ) drove to work car was running sound

got to work turned off ignition and i thought id try the key, she fired up i did this 3 times and she starts by the key every time now :blink: blumming gremlins

 

all ive done is cleaned the earths which wernt that bad to tell the truth and put a new wire to the solenoid and after a run out its fine :)

 

but im still sure one day it will happen again when im not expecting it :D:D

 

thanks for all the advice chaps im gonna tidy up some more wiring and sort the ignition amp plate earthing wires etc ive got the bug now :)

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Wurzel

Sounds like you inadvertantly cleaned up the connection on the solenoid when you fitted an extra wire (I also have done this but is no longer needed) :D

 

Fingers crossed it keeps working for you.

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