[track_prep] Mi16 Track Car - Going Back Together!

[Powers 13]

Jon, coming on very nicely it just a shame about the shell!

Are they an-6 or an-8 fittings? Have you bought them already? As i am placing a large order from the US this week and they work out less than half price!

[Jonmurgie 2]

They are -10 and -12 fittings and I've already bought them all (about £300 worth!)... thanks for the offer though

[Powers 13]

No worries. I too would really like a Stack dash, its just the cost for something that wont make you any faster, they look awesome though.

[Dream Weaver 2]

I was going to ask why you're using hosepipe, but all is revealed on your website

[Sam 4]

No worries. I too would really like a Stack dash, its just the cost for something that wont make you any faster, they look awesome though.

 

Its nice to accurately know when the cars about to kill itself I must say I was expecting better quality loom plugs for the sensors, they are just rubber insulated spade connectors!

[mishu 0]

I'd like to use some braided hoses for the cooling/braking parts as well, it'd make the entire engine bay look much nicer IMO.

 

Does anyone have something like this, or know the diam/lengths of the tubes/fittings needed?

Jonmurgie, what are you going to use for tubing?

 

mishu

Edited August 11, 2006 by mishu

[roland rat 11]

fair play mate this cars going to be amazing once done!just wish i had much go in me as you do then i may start finally sorting out my gti !!keep up the good work!

[Powers 13]

Mishu - Start a fresh topic and we will be able to sort you out regarding brake pipe lengths and fitments.

[base-1 17]

Looking very nice Jon! Those holes and grommets are big enough for the fittings to get through aswell aren't they?

 

Mishu - I should think he'll be using 200 series hose, and 600 series for internal fuel if he's doing it in aeroquip

[Jonmurgie 2]

Correct, I'm using Goodridge 200 series braided hose... pretty much the best you can get bt so it should be at £39 + VAT per meter

 

Have been working on the pipe runs today, got a cunning plan for where to put the oil filter and I now need to get an oil cooler beofre I can finish off the pipe runs and have the proper hoses made up... Once that is done it's almost there really, this is the most complicated bit for me so glad it's progressing

[smckeown 1]

Its nice to accurately know when the cars about to kill itself I must say I was expecting better quality loom plugs for the sensors, they are just rubber insulated spade connectors!

 

You don't need an expensive dash for that, ECU can read oil poressure and use an AUX output for the light, or the mechanical 2nd sender hooked up to a light that I'm currently running

[Sam 4]

How do you know its accurate?

 

A light isn't really enough is it, a light judt indicates imminent damage.

[smckeown 1]

How do you know its accurate?

 

Just as accurate as this dash.

 

 

A light isn't really enough is it, a light judt indicates imminent damage.

 

A bright light is the only thing that will help you, do you realy think you'll be concentrating on an expensive and accurate reading when your hammering it on track ?

 

Don;t get me wrong the dash is great, but I'm not sure on your reasoning

[Sam 4]

Just as accurate as this dash.

A bright light is the only thing that will help you, do you realy think you'll be concentrating on an expensive and accurate reading when your hammering it on track ?

 

Don;t get me wrong the dash is great, but I'm not sure on your reasoning

 

Can adjust the levels at which your light comes on? The stack has adjustable warning lights too, not just a digital reading. Having a light to tell me its too late isn't enough

 

I've used plenty of cheap dials and you never get the same readings as a proper SPA/Stack etc item.

 

My reasoning is that its a comprehensive and accurate solution to realying temperatures/pressures, as apposed to the 205 gti dash which can be vague at the best of times, and lets face it, it was designed to be as accurate as it needs to be for a road car.

[smckeown 1]

Can adjust the levels at which your light comes on? The stack has adjustable warning lights too, not just a digital reading. Having a light to tell me its too late isn't enough

 

the warning light yes is adjustable in both cheap options i listed above.

 

I think your missing my point, i'm saying this:

 

1 - A light is the only thing you need as an alarm - the stack does gives this, as does the 2 cheaper methods i mentioned

2 - Having an accurate sender and display is of course advantageous, but like I said the light is the most important bit. The accurate display is noy much use to you when ure hammering round the track

 

I also have the benefit of an accurate reading on my accusump

[Powers 13]

I think you can recal max values reached from the Stack range of dashes. It also works well during cooling down laps.

[Sam 4]

Yep it does tell tales, its really a good bit of kit. Anyway I won't clog up Jons thread anymore!

[mishu 0]

Mishu - Start a fresh topic and we will be able to sort you out regarding brake pipe lengths and fitments.

 

Done. click

[Banjo 1]

Where you getting the dash done mate?

[Jonmurgie 2]

Not sure yet matey...

 

Spent some time yesterday working out the dry sump pipe run, and it's ended up looking a little like this:

 

 

Plan is to put the oil cooler infront of the radiator to the right hand side (as your looking at it) as there is simply no other room for it. Was trying to get it where Miles has suggested but due to my airbox/filter setup it can't go there. (ignore the starter motor in that picture too, was only put there to check for clearance with the oil pipes)

 

The other thing that had to be located was the remote oil filter. Sounds easy but when you get the housing with the fixings on the each end the engine bay suddenly looks very small! We were looking about for suitable places and this is where we ended up:

 

 

 

 

It sits really well here and the plan is to have someone fabricate an alloy bracket that can be bolted to the side of the head (what you see in MDF in the pics) and then bolt the housing to that. I CAN keep the water pipe that runs around the back of the head if the bracket is quite deep but to be honest I'd rather ditch all that anyhow so it will be around the size the mdf prototype is at the moment.

 

Anyone have any thoughts on that position? My only slight concern is the possible heat transfer from the head into the housing/filter and eventually the oil... was perhaps thinking of putting some heat backing between the alloy bracket and the filter housing.... one to think about a little more maybe...

[mickie 3]

looks really well.. are you gonna clean up that starter motor ?

[Jonmurgie 2]

(ignore the starter motor in that picture too, was only put there to check for clearance with the oil pipes)

 

see above

[smckeown 1]

everything will be blinged up before it goes into that bay for final fitting i'm sure.

 

One thing I found out when having an oil cooler fitted, was to fit it so it can be drained easily. Some people seem to fit them with the pipes at the top, which makes it impossible to empty other than taking the complete unit out. Anoither learning point was top make the brackets strong enough to make sure the cooler doesnt move when you are removing the fittings to drain. Mine was rather tricky still.

[Sam 4]

Sean you have a point but you are also meant to mount them with the pipes facing up so the air can bleed from them easily, or so I'm told!

[Jonmurgie 2]

 

More pictures and updates here: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp