[track_prep] Mi16 Track Car - Going Back Together!

[Jonmurgie 2]

Few more updates:

 

 

 

 

http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp

[smckeown 1]

i thought you were doing the plumbing, or measuring up for plumbing ? if so having the TBs/Airbox in there will make things harder ??

[Jonmurgie 2]

I just slung them on to size up where I want the radiator to sit... took pics cause it looks so nice

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I just slung them on to size up where I want the radiator to sit... took pics cause it looks so nice

 

What airbox is that, and how deep is it?

What trumpets length are you using?

 

I'm maybe looking into quieting mine a bit as it made lotsa noise with the new cams (compared to std Mi16 ones)

[Jonmurgie 2]

I'm using 90mm trumpets as advised and supplied by Jenvey who develped that length with Longmans years ago

 

The airbox is for an Elise K series and bought from here: http://www.auto-teknix.co.uk/roadelise.htm I turned the box upside down and fabricated my own back plate for it... does the job nicely though they are still LOUD and got me into trouble at Combe!

 

P.S. Our engines look so similar it's scary!!

[Dream Weaver 2]

Nice work Jon

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I'm using 90mm trumpets as advised and supplied by Jenvey who develped that length with Longmans years ago

 

The airbox is for an Elise K series and bought from here: http://www.auto-teknix.co.uk/roadelise.htm I turned the box upside down and fabricated my own back plate for it... does the job nicely though they are still LOUD and got me into trouble at Combe!

 

P.S. Our engines look so similar it's scary!!

 

 

Ok, I'm using 90mm trumpets too, I've just ordered a bonnet with a big hump from Magnum Motorsports, as there's no way I can close the std bonnet like it's now. Filter and fuelrail is really sticking far too high.

 

How much clearance is there between trumpets and the wall of the air-box? And do anyone know what's actually the adviced clearance for best performance?

 

Engines look pretty much the same, will be interesting to se your torque curve and where it produces power, your's still a 1900cc? I hope mine still will have quite a bit low-down grunt due to it beeing 2.3 litres

[Dream Weaver 2]

I think 30mm is the advised clearance from end of trumpet to filter or air box.

Edited August 9, 2006 by Dream Weaver

[petert 591]

I thought it was 70mm minimum air box to trumpet? Here's some pics of a stainless steel air box I've been making. It's been an absolute pain as I've tried to get it all under the standard bonnet and above a lowered radiator. As you can see from the side view, the lid of the airbox will still interfere with the incoming column of air. I still have to add a side entry for air intake.

[Jonmurgie 2]

I don't koow the figure to be honest... I have always been meaning to have a few before/after yno runs with different length trumpets and airbox on/off to see the effects, still hope to one day!

[petert 591]

Have a read of this!

 

http://upetd.up.ac.za/thesis/available/etd...issertation.pdf

 

Looks like it's back to the drawing board for me!

[phatgti 0]

Pete, wouldn't the steel airbox act as a heatshield from the block and warm the air going into the bodies or should the shine from the stainless reflect the heat?

[tom_m 0]

Have a read of this!

 

http://upetd.up.ac.za/thesis/available/etd...issertation.pdf

 

Looks like it's back to the drawing board for me!

 

jeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeees my head hurts now!, but from what i can see you'll never fit an airbox of the style he advocates under a 205 bonnet! but it didn't half flow well did it!

[stu_woac 1]

looking good jon it will back moving in no time

[petert 591]

Pete, wouldn't the steel airbox act as a heatshield from the block and warm the air going into the bodies or should the shine from the stainless reflect the heat?

 

stainless is a very poor conductor of heat. Ideally it should be carbon fibre. If it works ok I might pull a mould off it.

[Jonmurgie 2]

So with the wiring thinned out a bit it's looking a bit neater:

 

 

and what we took out came to just under 1kg!!

 

 

More pics and updates here: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp

[Sam 4]

Are you leaving the dash out? What bits have you removed?

[Jonmurgie 2]

No, dash is going back in... 'might' be having it flocked but I'm not sure on the funds yet. Would very much like to get a nice set of clocks (much like your stack) to run off the MoTeC but again, it's all about the £££ or rather lack of!

[SPGTi 2]

I also see masses of seam sealer that looks like it could do with a good scrape !!!!

 

 

steve

[Jonmurgie 2]

nah, that's far too much work! I might have a go at it with the wire bursh attachment on the drill though...

[phatgti 0]

Thats exactly what you want to use - or wait until the winter when it comes off in chunks.

[Jonmurgie 2]

Cut a couple of holes in the bulkhead last night for running the dry sump pipes through... one is a little big though so bigger grommet required!

 

 

Also started looking at the pipe run for the dry sump, Merlin suggested using hosepipe to get the lengths worked out, a good tip!

 

 

More pics and updates here: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp

[smckeown 1]

why do the pipes need to go through the bulkhead then ?

[Dream Weaver 2]

I assume to run to the tank that will probably go in the boot

[Jonmurgie 2]

Yes, and as I'm having to cut back on the budget I couldn't stretch to the extre £100 to have all the bulkhead fittings, when simply drilling some holes and using grommets would essentially do the same job