[track_prep] Mi16 Track Car - Going Back Together!

[Jonmurgie 2]

Last night I finally got my 205 back from having some seat rails welded in along with some extra roll cage bracing for my harnesses. Now it's back things are going to move forward so again I'll try to keep things in one place. The 4 week target form getting the engine back seems to have been a tad optimistic but hey, we've all got to have targets to miss!

 

With the seat rails, the passenger seat has been put back as far as it will go (allowing room for the seat of course) while the drivers seat has been set so I should have the mount around in the middle setting, though there is about 2 inches of movement forward and back should I need it. Just to be on the safe side the bolt tabs on the drivers side have been extended over both sides of the rail so the seat can be moved further back if needs be:

 

 

The extra rear bracing on the cage is purely for the harnesses as I was never happy with them being fitted to eyelets off the old rear seatbelt mounts. Ideally the rear straps should be no more than a certain angle (can't remember what it is right now though!) below your shoulders otherwise it can cause problems if you do have an accident:

 

 

I also got my 4-2-1 manifold back from being repaired... if you recall it had cracked between the 2nd and 3rd pipes so I had a mate who's handy with the welder fix it back up. I also had him weld around the Y piece as mines always blown there, and now it won't! With that done I then wrapped the manifold in heat wrap again, despite what it does to the metal. It does such a good job of keeping the heat out of the engine bay and in the exhaust I'm sticking with it!

 

 

More updates soon... or you can keep up-to-date on my site: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp

Edited July 11, 2006 by Jonmurgie

[smckeown 1]

good stuff, i'm itching to get mine back now as it's in the final stages.

 

Good idea about lowering the supports, i've recently had mine lowered since it was done. Drove Gav's mini recently with a great low position, and knew it had to be done to mine.

 

Will the passenger's harness fit on the new cage car ? One either side of the diagonal ?

[Kitsune 0]

Doesnt the angle need to be above 45deg?

 

I've been keeping an eye on the 'wrap' threads and I've noticed you've only wrapped the top end as opposed to all the way down. Is this as far as you're going to wrap it, or did you just run out.....?

[dodsworth_gti 11]

i need to get new seat mounts put into mine as the stanard is pooped!!!

[Simes 248 2 Cars]

John,

 

I'd think again about wrapping the Maniflow manifold

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=61476&hl=

[Jonmurgie 2]

Sean - Not sure how the passenger harness will fit, but probably one either side... we're just trying to make something work with the OMP cage as the diagonal isn't quite in the middle as it were.

 

Kits - That's 5m worth used so far... I had thought of wrapping the rest of the manifold but I didn't last time and won't this time either.

 

Simms - Thanks for the thread, am aware of that as I had actually posted in the thread! I'm personally happy to use the wrap on the manifold and replace it in a years time or whatever for a stainless one. It's a bit of a hope that the manifold is OK after being welded up again (was originally Sean's manifold and he'd had some work done on it before me!)

[Sam 4]

Thats exactly what I need to do to mine with the seat rails! Never got round to it

[Jonmurgie 2]

Got a bit more progress made over the weekend... had wanted to actually get the engine back in the car but decided to go to the Air Tattoo @ Fairford instead So here's som progress anyhow:

 

Here we have the rear engine mount, cleaned and painted and fitted with a BBM Uprated Mount:

 

When running a dry sump you have to have a completley sealed block so here Matt @ QEP has measured and fitted some metal plugs to make things neat (these are the oil feeds into the standard block/sump on the front of the block):

 

With everything so clean it seems a shame to use dirty nuts/bolts so it's out with the wire brush on the drill and everything gets a quick clean/polish:

 

So here's the engine as it currently stands, with the engine mounts and inlet manifold fitted:

 

Got a few little bits and pieces to get this week then hopefully get it into the car! More pics and progress here: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp

[Pug_101 0]

looking good Jon.

What are you using to clean the brackets, they look like new

Cheers

[Jonmurgie 2]

Metal things are being de-greased and then sprayed with Hi-Temp Aluminium paint from Halfords... amazing stuff and makes things like new

[Alastairh 47]

Good to see progress.

 

Engine does looks a work of art.

[Banjo 1]

Shiny!

Edited July 17, 2006 by Banjo

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

looking good Jon.

What are you using to clean the brackets, they look like new

Cheers

 

 

Wurth wheel and engine cleaner is superb at getting rid of grease, tar and general s*ite. I used it on my 1.6 which came up a treat!

 

Ed

Edited July 17, 2006 by Edp

[Pug_101 0]

Metal things are being de-greased and then sprayed with Hi-Temp Aluminium paint from Halfords... amazing stuff and makes things like new

 

So your cheating

Works well though.

[Jonmurgie 2]

Yes, cause you'll never get something that's 15+ years old as clean as new without some kind of paint or finish

[jonnie205 1]

sweet

 

have you ground the engine mount upper lip to claer the inlet manifold. Most carb inlet manifolds inc longman one require about 3mm taking off the mount in order to get adequate clerance. Just yours looks quite close thats all.

[Jonmurgie 2]

Yeah, plenty of clearance: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/images/rebuild/large/pic152.jpg

 

When I fitted the Jenvey's at the start of the year I was amazed at how much tweaking you have to do to bits and bobs to get them to fit... took a fair few hours really!

[Jonmurgie 2]

Been a bit lazy of late but in an effort to ever get the damn thing finished we slung the new engine in today so I can measure up on the dry sump pipes and work a few other things out, here are a few pics, very bare right now as it's only a test-fit as it were:

 

 

 

 

 

First thing that jumps out is the need to paint the gearbox in the gloss balck of the block but my god it looks good in there

[roland rat 11]

looks good mate bet it'll got like sh*t off a shovel once its all done!!!!

[S33GAV 0]

Probably no need to quote all the pictures again

 

Looking awesome that!

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Looking good, Almost as shiny as one of mine.

Quick point thou, Get rid of the Servo and get a Bias pedal box, then you'll get a consistant pedal all the time

[smckeown 1]

i've never had a problem with my serve, as jon andf pete f will agree, the pedal feed is amazing with just servo and 23.8mm M/C. Basically the slightest travel and then rock solid pedal feel, also very progressive

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

It must be my left foot braking, Use this allot and you will loose the pedal, Plus it frees up allot of room around the Cambelt area.

look forward to the continious updates!!

[jackherer 543]

It must be my left foot braking, Use this allot and you will loose the pedal

 

I heard the same from some 205 Challenge people, they put a valve in the vac hose to the servo and turn it off on stages where they're using the brakes a lot.

[Jonmurgie 2]

Website Updated with more pics: http://www.mdracing.co.uk/rebuild.asp