Ant 2 Posted July 3, 2006 Got to pugfest and back in the 2.0 - All fine apart from killing fuel... £35 to 140 miles But ive noticed im only getting about .25 boost on the boost guage instead of the half a bar i would expect.. I dont think ive any leaks in the piping, but after remebered i never connected one of the pipes to where the carbon canister used to go This is wired up, but the pipe that used to go to the carbon canister now goes to nowhere.. - its just unblocked. Could this be the reason for leaking the boost and can i just block the end of this off ? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted July 3, 2006 Sure someone had this same problem a while back and it was just a badly adjusted throttle cable. Could do with a better picture of what to trying to show us mate. Fuelling - did you get the vss wired up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TEKNOPUG 3 Posted July 3, 2006 Does it drive like it has no boost though? Could just be the boost guage giving a duff reading. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pugrallye 0 Posted July 3, 2006 (edited) your charcoal solenoid valve should be left to vent to atmosphere if your not running a charcoal canister and do not block it off Edited July 3, 2006 by pugrallye Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuqa 0 Posted July 3, 2006 as standard, the actuator is set to .25 bar IIRC. i wonder if the boost valve is just allowing the air to pass straight thruough, or u have the pipes connected incorrectly off the BV Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest CB-Dave Posted July 4, 2006 when RobTurbo's car was running next to no boost, it was cos the boost control solenoid had died - it made all the right noises but only came to about 2-3psi on the boost gauge, swapped the solenoid and away it went! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ant 2 Posted July 4, 2006 Cheers for the replies so far.. Last night i checked all the pipes. Jubilee clips were tight and no obvious leeks. Its actually not boosting at all.. The gauge sits at about 0 Bar.. It does rise slightly to about 2psi when i nail it.. Doesnt feel like there is any boost though. Not as fast as it should be.. Fuqa, where is the boost valve. Is that the little box that has 3 hoses and 1 2 wire connection. 1 goes somewhere behind the turbo, one back into the air inlet and 1 into the IC pipe ? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuqa 0 Posted July 4, 2006 Cheers for the replies so far.. Last night i checked all the pipes. Jubilee clips were tight and no obvious leeks. Its actually not boosting at all.. The gauge sits at about 0 Bar.. It does rise slightly to about 2psi when i nail it.. Doesnt feel like there is any boost though. Not as fast as it should be.. Fuqa, where is the boost valve. Is that the little box that has 3 hoses and 1 2 wire connection. 1 goes somewhere behind the turbo, one back into the air inlet and 1 into the IC pipe ? Cheers you got it! the hose that goes behind the turbo goes to the actuator! to check to see if the valve is working, put +12ve across it and try blowing thru it to see if its opening and closing the valve u could always connect the hose from the actuator straight to the manifold and see if it boosts up then. in the past ive had the hose split from the turbo to the metal boost pipe at the back of the engine.. it has a metal casing around it so u cant see the split... i gentley used my compressor/airline on the air intake to diagnose where the leak was cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted July 4, 2006 yep pipe from actuator to valve, then one goes to air intake and the other i have blocked of as this was supposed to go to the EGR then back into inlet manifold i think. I may have a spare valve if you get stuck mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ant 2 Posted July 4, 2006 to check to see if the valve is working, put +12ve across it and try blowing thru it to see if its opening and closing the valve When you say 12v, you meen disconnect the 2 pin plug and connect one of the connections to a +ve, one to -ve ? u could always connect the hose from the actuator straight to the manifold and see if it boosts up then. By manifold, i take it you mean the main alloy pipe from the turbo, ie from X is my pic ( pipe coming up from by servo ) to the pipe going in (X) just before the rubber hose Sam, if i need the valve, ill give you a shout - cheers lads Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuqa 0 Posted July 4, 2006 When you say 12v, you meen disconnect the 2 pin plug and connect one of the connections to a +ve, one to -ve ? By manifold, i take it you mean the main alloy pipe from the turbo, ie from X is my pic ( pipe coming up from by servo ) to the pipe going in (X) just before the rubber hose Sam, if i need the valve, ill give you a shout - cheers lads When you say 12v, you meen disconnect the 2 pin plug and connect one of the connections to a +ve, one to -ve ? yeah thats what i did to se if the valve was working By manifold, i take it you mean the main alloy pipe from the turbo, yeah where ever u have your pressure feed to the actuator ie from X is my pic ( pipe coming up from by servo ) to the pipe going in (X) just before the rubber hose yeah the rubber pipe that connects the X (the ally pipe) from the turbo might have split Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ant 2 Posted July 4, 2006 Sorry, im been dumb here... I understand the 12v thingy, but the other way you said to test was to bypass the boost valve.. So take the rubber hose, that comes from the actuator and instead of connecting that to the boost valve that has the 3 hoses in total, connect it straight to where ive X'd the pipe going into the alloy IC pipe. therefore im totally bypassing the boost control and going from the actuator into the manifold ? Is this what you meant ? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuqa 0 Posted July 4, 2006 Sorry, im been dumb here... I understand the 12v thingy, but the other way you said to test was to bypass the boost valve.. So take the rubber hose, that comes from the actuator and instead of connecting that to the boost valve that has the 3 hoses in total, connect it straight to where ive X'd the pipe going into the alloy IC pipe. therefore im totally bypassing the boost control and going from the actuator into the manifold ? Is this what you meant ? Cheers Yeah ive got the pressure feed for the actuator coming from a spare connector on the throttle body (u ahve probably blanked them off). but as a test just connect the hose that comes from the actuator to a spare nipple on the manifold or throttle body, therefore bypassing the boost control valve. think ive got u on my msn if u wanna chat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ant 2 Posted July 4, 2006 cheers - Ill have a play tonight.. If i have no luck ill give u a shout on MSN - cheers for the help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars Posted July 16, 2006 My Boost control solinoid had died on mine and i had to get a new one. I think you may be able to just pop a bleedvalve in here instead but not sure if the ECU will be looking for the solinoid though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted July 16, 2006 Best to get a new solenoid Bleed valves are a great way of blowing up your engine IMO Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
