Spring Loaded Cambelt Tensioner

[GLPoomobile 958]

I was taking off my cambelt yesterday and had difficulty with the belt tensioner. I know it is the older spring type and not an eccentric type.

 

Basically I followed the Haynes instructions - loosed the two front nuts and then the rear one, then used a 6mm open ended spanner to rotate the stud. But Haynes doesn't say which way to rotate or by how much

 

No matter what I did with it, it didn't seem to make a difference. They belt must have slackened as I could twist it 90 degrees on the longest run, but it was still tight in the tensioner so I had to more or less force it to come out.

 

I have studied the diagram in Haynes, looked at the tensioer from all the angles I could see, and had a feel while twisting the stud (I could feel the cam on the tensioner moving) but I can;t get my head around how the damn thing works and now I'm worried I won;t be able to tension up the new belt.

 

Can anyone tell me what direction and by how much you are supposed to twist this thing? Does it sound like my tensioner is broken? Is there anything I can feel for when I tension the new belt to work out if I have the tensioner cam in the correct orientation?

 

Incidentally, I didn't have this problem when I took the belt off my 1.9 when I was stripping it. Just remember twisting the tensioner stud and it slackened right off.

[pugrallye 0]

you turn the sqaure section nut by 90 degrees, either way to slacken it, its been a while, but im sure you turn it left once you have loosened lock nut (one way is harder than other though, lol - you will see when you take it off) alternatively, just take off the two front bolts and run and hide quickly, it'll come off in a flash!

Edited July 3, 2006 by pugrallye

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Souns like you've got the 16mm nut too loose and the cam is slipping over the lug on the tensioner.

The 6mm square peg should only turn one way. (not sure which sorry)

.

Edited July 3, 2006 by ALEX

[pugrallye 0]

depends how strong you are but you can actually turn it either way, just one side of cam has a 90 deg edge on it and other has a curve.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Souns like you've got the 16mm nut too loose and the cam is slipping over the lug on the tensioner.

The 6mm square peg should only turn one way. (not sure which sorry)

.

 

Aha! That's what I thought as when I was feeling around it felt like it wasn't making contact in the right place. Tried it with the tightened up a bit and made no difference though!

[j_turnell 137 3 Cars]

You can actually do it with your hands. If everything is slackened off you can get your hand on the front of the tensioner, where the metal part is with the 2 11mm's, and push it towards the back of the car to release it, then turn the lug with your hands so its open then let go and it should stay slack.

[Guest CB-Dave]

you can remove the tensioner assembly pretty easy once the belt is out of the way, best way to do it if the tensioner is being a nightmare is to lock the cam and crank in time, cut the belt off, undo all the tensioner nuts (two front one rear iirc) and wiggle the whole unit off.

 

if it's of an unknown age, it's probably better off to get a new spring and tensioner assembly rather than risk one that could be 10yrs old or so

 

also, one other point - I have come across a GTi that has had the pushy-bit of the tensioner (which makes contact with the turny bit to slacken it) was bent, and as such not allowing anything to happen... might have happened in this case?

[GLPoomobile 958]

Ok. So now that I have removed the cylinder head and the yop engine mount it is SOOO much easier to see what is going on.

 

I removed the tensioner from the block to have a gander and with it apart I can see how it all works (fairly simple infact). Having figured out how the cam part works, re-assembled it and re-fitted it to the block, it is now working properly and there is a nice bit of tension to it.

 

I know that it is re-commended that you renew the tensioner when doing a belt change on a high mileage car, but mine looks fine. The wheel spins smoothy, has no play in it ect, and the spring has plenty of strength in it. Nothing looks bent and it all seems to work. I know they are only about £25 but I'm really struggling now and every penny counts, so I'm going to leave the tensioner.

 

Incidentally, has any bought a timing belt from a Pug dealer? I was quoted £28 + VAT on friday, £38 + VAT for a tensioer, or £50.60 + VAT for the kit. Robbing bastards I'll just get a timing belt from GSF instead, thanks.