pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted June 30, 2006 I've just been looking at fixing my bucket seats (finally) & my intended method for fitting the seatbelt clip can't be used as the subframe will only match one of the inner subframe mounting bolt holes. My thoughts now are to use the clip I got from a BX rear seats that I always wanted to use but mount it differently. The pictures below show my plans but to expand on what I'm thinking of doing now, I'm going to drill through the hex head bolt in the picture with an 8mm clearance drill & turn the threaded section off to the shouldered part so I can bolt through these into the floor pan with the original bolt. All easy enough but do you think it will be strong enough or should I look at a different stronger method & a way to use both inner mountings. (elongate the subframe holes). It'll be fine imo. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Miles 331 1 Cars Posted June 30, 2006 I would use a nice big washer on the belt mounting, you don;t want it pulling thru if the worst was to happen, But even better I always like to have the belts mounted to the floor. The main thing is that the fixing's in the car are fine, I know the metal by the handbrake and front cross brace tend to fail Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 1, 2006 Thanks Miles, it might be a temporary thing but I'll have a good look around the underside & see if its looking weak & if so have some plates welded in to accomodate the extra strength back into that section before fitting proper floor mounted eye ends. I did everything I intended to do with the current set up & the results are attached below. I'm happy with it & the seat feels ace. Passenger seat tomorrow. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gti_al 1 Posted July 1, 2006 I tried to fit my buckets, but my attempt was pretty crap. So yesterday it was done properly, and it came up really well... although it did cost over $600. They ended up making a right angle bracket for the seat belt, and then that was bolted to the subframe. (Sorry about the crap description - i'll try and get a pic.) While it isn't as easy as using a flexible belt, i'm sure it is more solid and ultimately safer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miamistu 1 Posted July 1, 2006 Assuming the seat doesn't come away from it's mountings in the event of an accident Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 1, 2006 Assuming the seat doesn't come away from it's mountings in the event of an accident The seat is mounted to the subframe by four bolts, same as normal, the only difference now is how the seatbelt clip is fixed & there is one less bolt holding the subframe to the body but I'm already thinking of elongating the one hole on the subframe to get that in. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
feb 47 Posted July 1, 2006 The seat is mounted to the subframe by four bolts, same as normal, the only difference now is how the seatbelt clip is fixed & there is one less bolt holding the subframe to the body but I'm already thinking of elongating the one hole on the subframe to get that in. Graham. Hi Graham, are you using the sliding mechanism from the old seats on top of a custom subframe for this particular bucket? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 1, 2006 No, Sparco subframes bolted directly to the shell. No adjustment but ideal for me. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hilgie 16 2 Cars Posted July 1, 2006 I did it like this: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 1, 2006 I don't have easy access to a welder for doing it that way but it might be a winter thing if I decide to change it but this for using standard seatbelts for now not harnesses. I've fitted both seats & had to do a little extra modification in the end but all the original seat mounting points are being used. Test drive tomorrow three hours (ish) each way to & from Pugfest. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPGTi 2 Posted July 3, 2006 I did it like this: Same as me. Using captive nuts on plates welded underneath the car and eyebolts for harness fixings. Steve Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TEKNOPUG 3 Posted July 3, 2006 I found that the upper seat belt cut across my neck when they went around the right hand shoulder - so I threaded them through the right-hand hole in the back of the seat. Much more comfy now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d-9 0 Posted July 3, 2006 I mounted my belt exactly the same as way as graham, put a strip of 5mm ally on top of the front crossmember and made a rear crossmember out of 4.5mm angle iron, bolted to the original mounting holes in my 309. Then bolted the sidemounts of the seat to that lot, and it took a 40mph side impact fine, and none of the stuff pulled out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted July 3, 2006 Nice one Doug, I'm going to get some big washers soon like Miles uggested though. The seats are strangely uber comfortable, I was the closest I've ever been to falling asleep behind the wheel last night but that also might've been something to do with the; heat lack of sleep for previous the three nights lack of food intake early afternoon beer at Pugfest Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
d-9 0 Posted July 3, 2006 Ahh yeh when i say "exactly the same" I should add taht I used one of the huge washers that normally sit under the subframe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pugnut 9 1 Cars Posted February 27, 2007 bringing this one back from the dead to give it a bloody good hijacking lol. from my evenings searchings it seems that many people have done roughly the same as hilgie above . i've been toying with other ideas of modifying existing frames which i have done previously, but without complete satisfaction. So i feel the above route is the best plan (Considering i'm 6'2" and rapidly approaching 16st and have already had to weld up cracked mounting points). q1, it looks like side mounting frames give a fair bit of adjustment, but if i needed a slider for the drivers seat what should i choose? anyone roughly my height had success finding the sweet spot easily without sliders? q2, does anybody have any measurements for the new box section i need to weld in ? ie heights from floorpan or are they just level with the exhaust tunnel/inner cill? positions fore/aft ? bestest regards, Al Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daza4 24 Posted March 20, 2007 (edited) q1, it looks like side mounting frames give a fair bit of adjustment, but if i needed a slider for the drivers seat what should i choose? anyone roughly my height had success finding the sweet spot easily without sliders? q2, does anybody have any measurements for the new box section i need to weld in ? ie heights from floorpan or are they just level with the exhaust tunnel/inner cill? positions fore/aft ? Well I have got to this point with mine: http://www.hilgertbos.com/gallery/albums/r...arco2.sized.jpg But before i removed my seats from the car i covered the sill with tape and got the seat comfortable. ( I had been using side mounts fitted to OE sliding runners but am fed up being way too high!!!! so removed the lot but had got myself into a good positon!!) marked the front and rear of the seat on the tape as a marker point so know where approx i need to be when refitting the steel bars across the floor.: http://www.hilgertbos.com/gallery/albums/r...arco3.sized.jpg But if you look closely at the pics : where the marks the original cross member was spot welded too you can see that the front steel bar is approx in line with that anyway. Mine maybe a little further back than that. Yours might even be further back as you are taller than me @ 6'2"!!! im a short ass but got short legs and arms but a long body!!!!! Edited March 20, 2007 by daza4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
