Head Gasket Change

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I need to do a cheap fix on my girfriends 106 so I can flog it.

Has anyone re-used their head bolts after an head gasket changed on your TU engine?

I don't want to spend much on it you see. (it's only worth £400)

Also How do you lock up your crank to remove the crank pulley nut (the 22mm one)

I dont fancy using the hole in the block for timing the belt up. unless this is what you use?

Help much apreciated

Alex

[pugrallye 0]

never reuse headbolts, never ever, head will not seal again, and windy gun is only normally way of getting those crankshaft bolts out quick way is enter locking bolt and put car in fifth gear with friendly person having foot on brake, but not advised to use this method, you can time up/remove cambelt without removing the 22mm bolt, just a bit of a squeeze

Edited June 13, 2006 by pugrallye

[ablister 31]

yeah, no need to remove the 22mm, just remove the 3 13mm bolts that hold the pulley on and that gets you access to the timing belt cover. You'll be fine reusing the bolts

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I should have mentioned.

I need to replace the crank seal too.

[Rippthrough 98]

You can reuse the bolts so long as they're still in spec length wise. But then again they're only £15 a set.

[M@tt 77]

i replaced the h/g on our 106 a couple of weeks back and it cost me £80 in parts from Eurocarparts for H/G, timing belt, headbolts and tensioner.

 

I found on our 106 (1.6 XT - TU5JP engine) the head bolts were not the stretch type variety so in theory could have been used again.

 

Not sure about locking the crank, as you said that little hole that you put a bolt through was really piddly and you cant be sure the bolt has gone through between the timing teeth on the flywheel rather than pressing on the face of it and i wouldn't be confident in it holding when trying to remove the large pulley bolt.

Edited June 14, 2006 by M@tt

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

£80!!

thats a little more than I wanted to spend.

If anything I was hoping just to buy the gasket.

I have the head off already c/w the manifolds still attached (save me buying a full head gasket kit)

I also have a new crank seal from my XU Gti engine, I'm wondering if they are the same. The nut size is (22mm) so it's possible.

I'll find out if it is when I get the old one out.

The hole in the block is used for timing the belt up, it goes through a hole in the fly wheel, but

I've a long flat bar I'll use and bolt that to the auxiliary pulley fixing to hold the crank still.

I'll have a scan through the Haynes about the head bolts, I'm sure I read somewhere they can be re-used depending that they havn't starched too much.

[christopher 5 1 Cars]

I'll have a scan through the Haynes about the head bolts, I'm sure I read somewhere they can be re-used depending that they havn't starched too much.

 

Yes haynes says that somewhere. So if you follow their guide..who knows

 

I think everyone is afraid of the snapping bolt syndrome

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I saw my mate cange an head gasket on a Fiesta XR2 once.

He re-used the head bolts and the last bolt he tourqued up popped out.

The bolt hadn't snapped.

It had streached so much that it had got too thin for the threads in the block.

[Rippthrough 98]

I saw my mate cange an head gasket on a Fiesta XR2 once.

He re-used the head bolts and the last bolt he tourqued up popped out.

The bolt hadn't snapped.

It had streached so much that it had got too thin for the threads in the block.

 

We re-used ours last time with no problems.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Right!

Everythings back together now and it fired up with a missfire.

I let it warm up but the missfire still remains.

I've checked the timing belt twice as I thought it might be out a tooth or two, but both locating bolts both fit perfectly.

The engine ran fine before the gasket went, and I've double checked everything.

There is't any steam comming from the exhaust, so the new Head gasket looks like it's working fine.

The exact symptoms are as follows:-

With the engine running, which has no real problem starting, is lumpy on tick over.

If I hold the throttle on slightly it sounds better but still with a missfire.

I also get smoke puffs comming from the rocker cover filler cap when removed and the same gose with the dip stick. The dip stick tube looks like a little steam engine as it puffs smoke at idle.

I havn't a compression tester, so I can't really check it the easy way, but it looks like a piston ring isn't sealing.

Is it common for a piston ring to fail due to a blown head gasket?

Or could the problem be something else.

I have a tendancy to assume the worse when something gose wrong .

[stu_woac 1]

did you move the pistons when the head was off ??? as you could of moved a liner

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

No, the crank was never touched.

The liner bores looked O.K. from what I could see of them.

Two of the pistons were at the top. And I didn't have time to make some liner clamps.

I'm thinking of buying a comperssion tester tomorrow.

I'll use a teaspoon (or is it tablespoon?) of oil and crank the engine over with the starter to see if I get an improved reading.

I've never done this before but I understand the theory.

How much difference in pressure should I expect to see with oil and without?

Alex

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Got the compression tester and the readings are as follows:-

 

1: 160 Psi

2: 135 Psi

3: 60 Psi

4: 55 Psi

 

I tried again this time with a cap full of oil down each bore.

 

1: 230 Psi

2: 235 Psi

3: 135 Psi

4: 100 Psi

 

So what do you reckon thats wrong? Rings or something else

[Alastairh 47]

Was the head skimmed?

 

With the compression that low on 3+4, and even between 1+2 theres still a fair drop, it would make the car run like its got a compression misfire.

 

Next time don't let her continue driving the car with a duff hg, as she'll soon do the bottom end with the water and oil mix.

 

Alastair

[pugrallye 0]

you have either warped head (which would normally go between 2+3 btw) or your head bolts arent clamping head down enough, either way head off scenario and investigate

Edited June 18, 2006 by pugrallye

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Just fisished removing the number 4 piston.

Was a B**tard too has the liner had to come out with it.

The con rod is bigger than the bore, unlike the Gti xu engine.

 

What do you think?

 

 

Sorry it's a bad pic but it was best of all three i took

 

The top ring looks stuck in. I havn't tried to pick it out yet as I want someone at work to look at it for me.

Anyone know what the price is for a full set of piston rings for a 1.1 TU?

[trogboy 17]

Looks stuck in to me aswell. I take it it is similar all round the piston?

 

Full set of rings is in the region of £30.00 iirc.

 

I guess you know that you'll need the rubber liner o ring seal aswell now.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

The rings were stuck, but they've come out now.

There are also slight scorch marks at the front and rear of the piston and matching in the liner, but it doesn't look too bad. The marks on the piston are worse than the liner. The rings were a tight fit aswell, but I've removed the slight burrs on the groves and now the ring fit in as they should

 

On with piston number 3 tonight.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Looks stuck in to me aswell. I take it it is similar all round the piston?

 

Full set of rings is in the region of £30.00 iirc.

 

I guess you know that you'll need the rubber liner o ring seal aswell now.

 

Where did you get that price from??

 

I've just been quoted £70 for a full set. & £9 for a set of liner seals.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Well it's back together and runs perfectly.

The new rings ended up costing £45.

I did notice that one of the new liner seals is leaking though.

I filled the coolant up before re-fitting the sump to check them as there was corrosion in the block at the seat of the liner that is leaking.

It's not leaking much but I was wondering if rad-weld will fix it.

Whats your thoughts?