inferno 1 Posted June 12, 2006 ive just connected up what i belived to be the lives and earths on my 97 xantia ecu, and im getting a click on the double relay, but i have no power out of it fr the fuel pump and coil yet! please can somebody confirm the pin numbers on the ecu that need to have live/switched live/ and earth on them! wire numbers if you have the exact loom would be good too. im assuming all mp 3.2 ecus will be the same. it did have a keypad, but i dont want this wired in. thanx a lot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 12, 2006 Pin 27 ECU would need S/L + Have you an inertia switch, i tripped mine recently so had no live to fuel pump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 12, 2006 yes i have an inertia plug but i cut it out and joined the wires up. tried 27 to live and still nothing... head f***... too hot for this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 12, 2006 well on my loom there was also a switch live running through the inertia, via pin 2/3 on the double injection relay. constant lives are on pin 15, 14, 11 and 8 of the above relay. pin 9 should be fuel pump wire join that to wire 76 ( 205) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 12, 2006 ok im baffled, the wires your suggesting are switched live, ive actually earthed out in order to get fuel and ignition! still not starting but im guessing thats to do with the unfixed tdc sender and a now knackered starter moter! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 12, 2006 First of all , you loom may be a little different to mine, i cant help there. have a read... http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...=55628&hl=turbo two pins do indeed get earthed in the double injection relay, once the switch live is activated through it i think, this gives the fuel pump half of the relay live so i was told. confused the sh*t out of me for a while, still does infact study the diagrams and the top of the relay itself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 12, 2006 that thread just confused me!!! ok im off to try n crack it before it gets dark! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 12, 2006 Well maybe yo need to get unconfused my brother, before your crazy ass blows itself up ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 12, 2006 hmmm power to the coil and constant power to the pump(not a prime then power) but still no spark...:S looks like coil or tdc senser now.... damn im getting pissed off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 12, 2006 hmmm tried the coill and tdc senser andstill nothing... wtf! im i doing something blatently stupid here?! the 4 relay +ivs r connected, 8 11 14 15, pin 2 n 3 are on switched live, 10 and 7 earthed, and 9 to the pump. im getting power to coil and pump but still no spark. oh and ecu pin 27 is joint up with 3 on the relay getting switched +ive Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 13, 2006 If you had read all of the previous thread i posted the link to you would get it. Either pin 2 or 3 , not both i doubt , and if you had'nt cut your inertia switch plug off ! it would be easy to find out wich one it was. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuqa 0 Posted June 13, 2006 the ecu immobiliser controls the earth for the double relay.Until the ecu is unimmobilised it will not provide earth to the injectors and u will get no spark id wire in your keypad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 13, 2006 yep just figured this out... im giving earths that the ecu should be giving to the realay, therefore bypassing the ecu on the relay so that i have fuel and power to coil, but as im cranking the ecu still wants a bloody keycode, so isnt processing the tdc senser signal! damn ok... does anyone have a keypad and more importantly, does anyone know the wiring into this loom? would it be the same as a 405 xu7 or xu10 at i have wiring diagrams for those and i can cross match the numbers i think from the kepad to get the bare minimum... cheers... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted June 13, 2006 Mate do a search, i have posted the link to some diagrams for this engine, so has Hilgie. Wire numbers( 605) were donated by Ant+Jacobs53 and i have seen the immobileser ones too. Do you know the code? keypads usually are found all over the place at scrapyards and ebay, they are generic. or why not check out item no.4649377922 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacobs53 0 Posted June 13, 2006 (edited) have i read this correctly? You have cut the inertia switch out and spliced the wires together to create a circuit? Are you sure the circuit is always closed? If my understanding is correct the ECU contains a latch switch circuit which latches when a certain parameter is met (i.e this case a tilt switch) it then disables the a cirucit inside the ecu (most likely fuel pump) when the switch is pressed it re-sets the latch switch circuit, and the switch then is open... not constantly closed! This could well be your problem. This ecu unlocking stuff... Lets get one thing straight on this, the ecu does not contain a code... end of story! The keypad contains the code, and there is another latch switch circuit inside there, when the correct code is entered is supplies power to the ecu, which either does two things 1) the ecu is switched by one wire from the keypad and supplies power to the ignition amp, fuel pump etc.. 2) Or, the keypad contains more than one switched wire to supply 12v to the above components. So in my own case 10 months ago, you need to supply 12v to pin 27 of the ecu to bypass the initial keypad, but that was it on my application (605 SRTi) but the 406, and xantia are slightly different and i believe you need to supply power to more than one pin to activate all the circuits. Id personally check the inertia switch wiring. and don't give up at the first hurdle, lots of people have done it on here, just get stuck in if you get stuck have a cuppa tea, and then go back... keep doing that and il assure you it will purr. Don't forget to study that wiring diagram carefully as you can fry the ecu if your not careful lee p.s if anyone has had a ecu unlocked open the case and you will be shocked what you have paid for.... 3 or 4 wires briding from 12v pin to the other pins that need keypad/transpoder 12v. No code reading..... Edited June 13, 2006 by jacobs53 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 13, 2006 have i read this correctly? You have cut the inertia switch out and spliced the wires together to create a circuit? Are you sure the circuit is always closed? If my understanding is correct the ECU contains a latch switch circuit which latches when a certain parameter is met (i.e this case a tilt switch) it then disables the a cirucit inside the ecu (most likely fuel pump) when the switch is pressed it re-sets the latch switch circuit, and the switch then is open... not constantly closed! This could well be your problem. This ecu unlocking stuff... Lets get one thing straight on this, the ecu does not contain a code... end of story! The keypad contains the code, and there is another latch switch circuit inside there, when the correct code is entered is supplies power to the ecu, which either does two things 1) the ecu is switched by one wire from the keypad and supplies power to the ignition amp, fuel pump etc.. 2) Or, the keypad contains more than one switched wire to supply 12v to the above components. So in my own case 10 months ago, you need to supply 12v to pin 27 of the ecu to bypass the initial keypad, but that was it on my application (605 SRTi) but the 406, and xantia are slightly different and i believe you need to supply power to more than one pin to activate all the circuits. Id personally check the inertia switch wiring. and don't give up at the first hurdle, lots of people have done it on here, just get stuck in if you get stuck have a cuppa tea, and then go back... keep doing that and il assure you it will purr. Don't forget to study that wiring diagram carefully as you can fry the ecu if your not careful lee p.s if anyone has had a ecu unlocked open the case and you will be shocked what you have paid for.... 3 or 4 wires briding from 12v pin to the other pins that need keypad/transpoder 12v. No code reading..... Ok... yes i cut the inertia switch out as i dont have one to hand to fit. it acts as a circuit breaker in the event of an accident. the ecu suplies an earth via the inertia switch to the relay. i tried earthing direct to the relay and it resulted in a constant feed to the fuel pump, not a pulse as the ecu would give when working correctly. This ecu unlocking stuff... Lets get one thing straight on this, the ecu does not contain a code... end of story! The keypad contains the code, and there is another latch switch circuit inside there, when the correct code is entered is supplies power to the ecu, which either does two things 1) the ecu is switched by one wire from the keypad and supplies power to the ignition amp, fuel pump etc.. 2) Or, the keypad contains more than one switched wire to supply 12v to the above components. Ok lets straight your misguided thoughts out. what your saying may be true for your engine / ecu / keypad combo. but the fact is, not every loom can be the same assuming what your saying in your case is correct. THE ECU CONTAINS A CODE!!! to unlock the ecu procceed as follows ( this is exactly what i did today, and then i connected my inertia switch wires together, pin 27 of ecu to live, the 4 relay lives and my car started) my ecu had a code which i knew. i have no keypad wires at all connected, purely the above mentions wires. i put my ecu on a freinds xantia. entered the ECU CODE! not the code my freind uses to start his car! (at this point i changed the key code on the ecu to 1111 for ease of remembering, this isnt necessary but i want a keypad in at somepoint) i start the car. whilst its running i dissconnect the keypad, then i turn the ignition off, get out and lock the car for 5 mins. normally the car would now ask for a code. so i start it up , without connecting keypad no problems. then i put ecu in my car, connect wires as above and it fired up immediatly without a keypad or keypad bypass. my freind then put the keypad back on and his own ecu, put his own code in and his car started. as u say, the 406 and 605 do have different looms my xm loom was connected in the same way on my last conversion, minus any inertia wiring, and it started first time, even though it was asking for a code in the car i took it from. the xm was a 93 RGY engine and the engine i have now is a 97 RGX, the xm had 6 loom revisions alone for the management. so there are differences, which is why i got so wound up about it!!! cheers for your input... hopefully thisll stop somebody else doing there nut over a simple conversion!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted February 5, 2007 bumping this for the hell of it... ill be needing it next week:P Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted February 5, 2007 It should be the same as Pugtorque describes on page 2 of this topic http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?s...=66036&st=0 Although you will have a switched +ve going through one side of the inertia switch, as i explained further up this thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbean 0 Posted February 11, 2007 nice debate going here i have had lots of fun with imob lockout on conversions the code is deffo held in ecu! but there are a few types of key pad the later 1 when unlocked can be disconected and the engine will carry on running some of the early ones do not... the ign feed for the ecu runs through the keypad i had this fault on my last s16 solved it by checkin the ign feed to ecu after keypad removal it may not be of any help but i know how frustrating it can be jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
