Moys1.9 0 Posted June 2, 2006 When rebuilding my 205 engine, i decided to get the cylinder head, wet liners and pistons (with new rings) fully reconditioned. Me and a friend refit the cylinder head last night after locating the wet liners with new O-rings and fitting the pistons, with a new cylinder head gasket and a little bit of gasket sealent we fit the head. When we torqued the head to stage one, i misread the haynes manual and instead of torqueing the bolts down to 44 lb ft, i torqued them down to 60 lb ft. We decided to continue, so we slackened the bolts and then torqued them to 15 lb ft (stage two), when it came to tightening the bolts through 300 degrees (stage three) we could only turn them to 250 degrees. I was hoping someone could tell me if i have caused any damage before i go any further with the rebuild. My engine is a 1.9 GTI 8 valve 1989 with the spring loaded tensioner. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pug_101 0 Posted June 2, 2006 When rebuilding my 205 engine, i decided to get the cylinder head, wet liners and pistons (with new rings) fully reconditioned. Me and a friend refit the cylinder head last night after locating the wet liners with new O-rings and fitting the pistons, with a new cylinder head gasket and a little bit of gasket sealent we fit the head. When we torqued the head to stage one, i misread the haynes manual and instead of torqueing the bolts down to 44 lb ft, i torqued them down to 60 lb ft. We decided to continue, so we slackened the bolts and then torqued them to 15 lb ft (stage two), when it came to tightening the bolts through 300 degrees (stage three) we could only turn them to 250 degrees. I was hoping someone could tell me if i have caused any damage before i go any further with the rebuild. My engine is a 1.9 GTI 8 valve 1989 with the spring loaded tensioner. Thanks If I understand what your saying, I doubt you have reached the proper torque required (50' is a lot of torque). So undo all the bolts in order and start again following the correct procedure, you may want to get new bolts to be safe. The engine and head should be fine. By the way it is ok to tighten 150' then reset your bar and do another 150' if done quite quickly Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PumaRacing 2 Posted June 2, 2006 I suggest you read the instructions on my website which has a simpler method of doing up headbolts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banjo 1 Posted June 2, 2006 Yeah the Haynes method is a load of shiznit and way over the top, I use the same method as Puma says with my engines never had a problem. One thing tho if there are any threads in the block that arnt open bottomed dont fill them with grease! Cant remem if there are, been working on VWs recently.. Ben Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted June 2, 2006 One thing tho if there are any threads in the block that arnt open bottomed dont fill them with grease! Cant remem if there are, been working on VWs recently.. They're all open bottomed on the XU alloy blocks certainly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted June 2, 2006 They're all open bottomed on the XU alloy blocks certainlyJust don't forget the extra spacer for above the water pump. The bolts are stretch type but you should be Ok if they haven't been to full torque yet as they won't have been full stretched. Couldn't you turn them the extra 50' now? It is damned tight but they should go. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
inferno 1 Posted June 2, 2006 ive just started to do head bolts up without tourqe wrenches or angle dials. my boss has done it all his life, and has showed me how to tell when a strech bolt is tight enough. this works on any engine and we havent had any probs or broken bolts yet, you just feel how tight they are when they start to spring back as you tighten them there tight enough Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuqa 0 Posted June 2, 2006 ive just started to do head bolts up without tourqe wrenches or angle dials. my boss has done it all his life, and has showed me how to tell when a strech bolt is tight enough. this works on any engine and we havent had any probs or broken bolts yet, you just feel how tight they are when they start to spring back as you tighten them there tight enough surely thats like having sex with a prostitute without a jonny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Moys1.9 0 Posted June 3, 2006 we remembered today that the torque wrench we used only went down to 20 lb/ft so stage 2 was tightened to 20. Bin thinking that this may account for the 50 degree shortness during stage 3. Does this sound right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 245 3 Cars Posted June 4, 2006 Stage 3 should be 300' how ever you do it. An extra 5lbft won't be equal to 50' imo. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
base-1 17 Posted June 11, 2006 Don't be a girl, I just did mine today and had to stop the engine stand tipping over at the same time whilst I did it lol. I did break it down into 3 stages of 100° though, having heard lots of forum talk about it being impossible to do the whole 300°. It was a bit of a struggle, but it's done easily enough. I also went slightly over the 15 pound torque setting specified due to torque wrench inadequacy, still do 300° if you can manage it surely thats like having sex with a prostitute without a jonny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Richie-Van-GTi 74 2 Cars Posted June 12, 2006 I done mine in stages as well, done 3 lots of 90 then a 30, just found the 90's easier to work out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites