Running Brake Lines Inside The Cabin

[driversdomainuk 8]

Hi

 

I have decided that although I have Goodridge braided hoses, the brake pipes are original and starting to look rather aged and so I want to replace them.

 

I want to run the rear pipes through my car, so I can fit a brake bias valve - has anyone done this and how easy can it be done..as the car is fully stripped.

 

Also, as I am at it, I am thinking about changing/renewing the Mater Cylinder as that too is looking aged.

Yes, a rather expensive way of looking at things, but I am using the car for competiton use, and dont fancy a 16 year-old brake system deciding to "develop issues" as I enter a very fast corner

 

Basically, I need to know, is it worth chagning the MC for an original replacement or something else - and whilst I am at it, is there anything else worht changing if I am doing this...

 

Thanks

[smckeown 1]

new M/Cs are only about £25-40 from http://www.brakeparts.co.uk/

[jochem 0]

Its also possible to refurb an MC. I've seen kits woth new rubbers for sale at my local parts shop.

[Craigb 2]

I want to run the rear pipes through my car, so I can fit a brake bias valve - has anyone done this and how easy can it be done..as the car is fully stripped.

 

Thanks

 

Common practice, run them either through grommeted holes or preferably through bulkhead conections.

 

a single line from the master cylinder to the bias valve , a single line out of the valve to a tee inside the car then two lines to the rear calipers and doing away with the compensators..

 

Hope this helps

Edited June 2, 2006 by Craigb

[shepherdfte 0]

Running internal lines is easy with the 1.6 (front rear split), and if I was doing a 1.9, I'd split it front rear anyway.

 

I ran mine into the car via the old rear seat-belt hole (with grommed fitted) (the t-piece of the old set-up and actual split lines at the back were retained), down via the hydraulic handbrake, under the 'radio area', bolted it to the bolts that hold the brake pedal box on, and routed it out into the bay through the rubber bung that peugeot just happened to leave in exactly the right place. Easy as pie. I put the Tilton bias valve in the gearstick surround, as it fitted neatly, and meant is was before my hydraulic handbrake. Fuel lines followed a similar route, one eace side of the handbrake/gearstick, and out into the bay via a couple of drilled holes with rubber grommets in them. I was able to retain the original rubber fuel lines in the bay itself. Same at the tank end - I just used the original rubber hoses, pulled up from under the car so they just ran directly out of the tank area into the cabin. If you want to blue-book it I think this may not be legal - you may need a steel plate with couplings in it.

 

Well worth it for the confidence when on a rough road.

 

I would change the MC, as it's cheap, and might fail during bleeding anyway.

[driversdomainuk 8]

Sounds good to me, and another thing which you mentioned, fuel lines running inside the car..............

 

Not sure if this already has been done, but my car which is running carbs, with a silvertop facet pump, has a thick black pipe running up from the boot (directly above the facet pump) along the boot and into the circular cut section below where the rear seats used to be (behind driver side), and from there another rubber pipe running across and disappearing up the dash board on the passenger side....

 

is this a fuel line..(or something totally different! )

 

cheers

[shepherdfte 0]

I think that will be an internal fuel line already fitted then, although made of rubber, which is a bit iffy in a crash. Mine are copper throughout, except where they exit the tank. I'm assuming of course that carb set-ups like that only have one line, with no return?