Cold Start - Tachymetric Relay?

[Guest antgel]

My cold start is usually about 6 long turns, and at least a minute held at about 2000 rpm with my right foot. I suspected the SAD but haven't had a chance to examine it yet. One other thing comes to mind. I noticed this morning that when I turn the ignition, I don't hear the fuel pump. I'm sure all the other cars I've had have had an audible fuel pump prime.

 

When it does eventually get going, the revs are sometimes high for a minute or two, which is further evidence that the SAD may be okay (although my idle fluctuates so much, who knows;) ).

 

My hypothesis is that when it's warm, there is still enough fuel left in the areas that matter, for the car to start. Any thoughts? Am I barking up the wrong tree?

[eddie_1.9 1]

Yep, i think you are. In my experience, when the tachemetric relay is playing up, it only does it when the cars been running for a good few miles. Youe SAD is almost certainly duff, they all are, aren't they?

Sounds more like your engine needs a good service i.e. plugs, dissy cap & rotor, air filter. The battery may be weak too for old age. charge it up over night and see if it helps things.

It's always worth doing the fuel filter too, but i suspect you'll have results without doing this too.

Edited May 26, 2006 by eddie_1.9

[shepherdfte 0]

I doubt the SAD. All it does effectively is open the throttle a fraction, so she should go fine with a whiff of thorttle open iven if it's bust. I used to run mine with no SAD, and it started perfectly with a blip of the foot.

 

Possibly a dodgy cold water sender telling the car it's hot? Or as folk say, dizzy etc. The 205 is VERY sensitive to knackered Dizzy parts.

[eddie_1.9 1]

Possibly a dodgy cold water sender telling the car it's hot?

It would be the other way round. When they go the resistance goes right up (infinity) which make the ECU think the water cold. Hence changing the ECU temp sender will increase your MPG, and performance when the engine is hot, if you have hot starting/running and/or MPG issues. Edited May 26, 2006 by eddie_1.9

[Andrwn8304 0]

Thought it was just me with that kinda problem

 

Mine turns and starts straight away but i keep the throttle to about 2000rpm till the oil pressure builds up then it might idle and when it does its erratic, but it always stalls at the junctions till its hot.

When it does warm up it idles up and down between 1000 and 1300 rpmany lower and it stalls every time.

 

Any suggestions?

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Mine turns and starts straight away but i keep the throttle to about 2000rpm till the oil pressure builds up then it might idle and when it does its erratic, but it always stalls at the junctions till its hot.

When it does warm up it idles up and down between 1000 and 1300 rpmany lower and it stalls every time.

 

Any suggestions?

Yes.

 

Take the whole of the inlet pipework, throttle body, AFM, SAD & breathers off, buy some carb cleaner & spend an hour or more cleaning everything out properly using rags & a toothbrush, including removing the idle speed screw on the throttle body & the path for this in the throttle body out. Whilst the TB is off, check your throttle switch works as per the test in the haynes manual. (its been posted on here before so hopefully a search will find it).

 

Refit it all & start the engine, let it warm right up (cooling fan cuts in & out) & set your idle speed to about 1000rpm when its hot, then switch your lights, heater etc on & see how it drops. It should still hold a nice steady idle with full electrical load.

 

Graham.

[Andrwn8304 0]

Yes.

 

Take the whole of the inlet pipework, throttle body, AFM, SAD & breathers off, buy some carb cleaner & spend an hour or more cleaning everything out properly using rags & a toothbrush, including removing the idle speed screw on the throttle body & the path for this in the throttle body out. Whilst the TB is off, check your throttle switch works as per the test in the haynes manual. (its been posted on here before so hopefully a search will find it).

 

Refit it all & start the engine, let it warm right up (cooling fan cuts in & out) & set your idle speed to about 1000rpm when its hot, then switch your lights, heater etc on & see how it drops. It should still hold a nice steady idle with full electrical load.

 

Graham.

 

 

Thx Graham

 

Not up to spec with all the abbreviations tho sorry

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

AFM= Air Flow Meter.

SAD= Supplementary Air Device.

TB= Throttle body.

 

Graham.

[Andrwn8304 0]

I've cleaned the Airflow Meter and even changed it with another 1

Cleaned the Throttle Body out aswell Butterfly Flap cleaned etc

Tested the throttle switch as you said with a multi-meter and set it up according to Haynes

 

But its still the same according to my local Peugeot dealer "Its one of them things thats prone to that car, all they do is set the idle to 1300 RPM and persavere with it" seems abit iffy for dealer to say that I thought anyway.

 

Andrew

Edited February 28, 2007 by Andrwn8304

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

But its still the same according to my local Peugeot dealer "Its one of them things thats prone to that car, all they do is set the idle to 1300 RPM and persavere with it" seems abit iffy for dealer to say that I thought anyway.

Jane horrocks.

 

Thats very iffy for a dealer but thats what happens when they get new staff in that have never worked the cars. I'd stop taking it to them.

 

Especially setting it to idle @ 1300rpm, its is outside the limits for the MOT emissions test at that rpm afaik.

 

Did you clean the idle bypass & screw when you cleaned the throttle body?

 

Mine used to idle erratically but once I'd done all the above & checked all round for air leaks it was fine.

 

Graham.

[Andrwn8304 0]

Jane horrocks.

 

Thats very iffy for a dealer but thats what happens when they get new staff in that have never worked the cars. I'd stop taking it to them.

 

Especially setting it to idle @ 1300rpm, its is outside the limits for the MOT emissions test at that rpm afaik.

 

Did you clean the idle bypass & screw when you cleaned the throttle body?

 

Mine used to idle erratically but once I'd done all the above & checked all round for air leaks it was fine.

 

Graham.

 

 

Not sure now its was a months ago but I'll do it all again following your guide hopefully it should be ok afterwards.

 

The mechanic at the dealers said he worked on them years but as you agreed 1300RPM is abit high which is why I didnt listen to that bit and set it to where it would idle 1000 - 1050 Rpm