Jer309GTi 3 Posted May 24, 2006 I'm going to be putting new piston rings in my Mi while I rebuild it, and from searching everyone says the liners must be honed first. Would this have to be done with the liners in situ or take them out and give them to a machine shop? I'm probably going to have to replace the o-rings on the liners as I'm not sure if the crank has been turned while the head's been off and don't really want to take a chance on these leaking Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted May 24, 2006 ........, and from searching everyone says the liners must be honed first. They speak the truth. I'd definitely remove the liners, check the condition of the liner seat area and fit new o-rings. This procedure is extremely difficult to do in the car properly. You should really remove the block from the car and do it properly. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug309twin40s 1 Posted May 25, 2006 his engine is removed and sat in his hallway! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rescue dude 0 Posted May 25, 2006 his engine is removed and sat in his hallway! Obviously not married then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorr 0 Posted May 25, 2006 They do not need honed as such, they need deglazed which roughens the surface slightly so the new rings have something to bite into and therefore bed in. Also no point deglazing if they worn our damaged, so get them out the engine inspected and go from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jer309GTi 3 Posted May 25, 2006 Obviously not married then. Engaged with a fiancee who loves Pugs as well Thanks for the replies I'll take the liners out and give them to a local engine builder to check. They look fine to me but always best to make sure. Peter, when you say check the liner seat area, do you just mean to make sure there is no pitting or corrosion and give them a good clean up before fitting new o-rings? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted May 25, 2006 The area in the block they sit on. Corrosion usually starts around the back of #1 liner, where there must be a lack of coolant flow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jer309GTi 3 Posted May 26, 2006 Thanks Peter. Is it worth putting a little oil on the o-rings when refitting the liners or is it best to put them in dry? I've done a search but can't find an answer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest puglet Posted May 27, 2006 totally off subject here, for which i apologise. but im rebuilding my mi and im having fun cleaning the block. Jer309GTi any insight into wheather cilit-bang or whateva its will remover the 16years of ground in dirt or do i just get it bead blasted? Sorry again Ps if you were any closer i would have offered to hon your liners for ya as im doing mine in the next coupe of weeks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorr 0 Posted May 27, 2006 Puglet - I have just got my block acid dipped to clean it. It was far easier and less time consumming than the manaual cleaning that I did on my previous rebuild. It took me longer to clean the block than it did to rebuild the engine, so decide not to do that again. I would not bead blast it as it can be very hard to get the beads out of the oil ways. If you are doing it by hand I found Carplan Tetroclean the best stuff to use and it also rated to in the Auto Express product testing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted May 27, 2006 I always get the liner seat area bead blasted to ensure there is no corrosion lurking under the surface, before hot tanking. If they're experienced and careful, nothing will enter the oil galleries. You then have a reliable, solid surface for the liners to sit on when checking protrusion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest puglet Posted May 27, 2006 (edited) Puglet - I have just got my block acid dipped to clean it. It was far easier and less time consumming than the manaual cleaning that I did on my previous rebuild. It took me longer to clean the block than it did to rebuild the engine, so decide not to do that again. I would not bead blast it as it can be very hard to get the beads out of the oil ways. If you are doing it by hand I found Carplan Tetroclean the best stuff to use and it also rated to in the Auto Express product testing. how much did your acid dip cost? im just a tight arse, don't wanna spend if i dont have to, im up to £550 at the mo and that includes engine all new gaskets and bearings and a new unscored head which i thinks fare cheep really Edited May 27, 2006 by puglet Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorr 0 Posted May 29, 2006 Acid dip for my block was £35. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
