Edd-XS 0 Posted May 23, 2006 I should hopefully be picking up my fully re-built Mi in the next few weeks or so and am going to fit it myself with the help of a few mechanic/enthusiast mates. I only get every other week end free as I work full time, and have this weekend off so was wondering what good prep work is worth doing? Is it ok to drain the engine of coolant and to remove all the rad and hoses etc or will this cause the old 8v trouble should it be re-used again? Obviously I intend to give the whole bay a nice clean down aswell before the new lump goes in, so has anyone got any hints and tips etc, worth noting when doing this? Cheers guys, just looking forward to getting the thing in and running now! Edd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DaveK 0 Posted May 23, 2006 im v interested in this aswell, mine will be going in soon too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Simes 248 2 Cars Posted May 23, 2006 Remove clean and prepare, and remember what is what. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest shaun Posted May 23, 2006 i recently completed my mi swap all i can say is make sure you label all plugs fittings etc on the loom, although if youre running dizzy and carbs like i am its much easier this way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted May 23, 2006 Yep and have plenty of small'ish boxes available,and some of them zip tight bags are always usefull,bucket for old fluid and rags to mop up with,and try and keep those labels free from gunk,its not easy and after some man handling i could hardly read what was on them ! Good luck with it man Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huxley309 0 Posted May 23, 2006 (edited) Take your time and remeber how it all goes back together Keep all your bolts and bits safe, your bound to find yourself 1 short unless you have a ton of them already Did mine about ooh 1 month ago and it was hard work but easy once the engine was back in......you learn a lot by taking the old 8v out to begin with Get a clutch allignment tool and new driveshaft seals plus the usual gaskets/oil/coolant etc Oh and finally when you come to bolt up the manifold....start from the centre and work your way out, saves your manifold blowing like mine first did Also id recommend replacing the cam belt/tensioners and water pump at the same time unless they're recent themselves And replace those god awful cam tensioner bolts with a headless stud and nylock nut, about m10x45mm iirc but make sure it's only a small bit longer than the nylock nut otherwise you'll have a job to undo them for the next belt change, not forgetting to threadlock the stud in place Thats all i can think of Edited May 23, 2006 by huxley309 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maturin23 10 Posted May 23, 2006 Don't forget to remove the selector fork (if that's the correct term) from the outside of the 8v gearbox and replace the one one the mi16 box if you're using the mi16 box. They're held on by two pins one inside the other. Make sure the rod doesn't drop down into the mi16 gearbox or you'll have to take the gearbox apart. I didn't change it when I dropped mine in, had to haul out the engine when I realised the linkage wouldn't fit! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rjw205 8 3 Cars Posted May 24, 2006 lining the cluth up can be a pig.. so yu can use a whittled down broom handle to get everything in line before bolting the cover plate to the flywheel. Also, still with mother's best broom in hand, cut off two more 6" lengths, and wedge them in the driveshaft holes in the diff, to stop anything that might fall out or collapse doing so. Best of luck with it.. i di mine a while ago now, and have been enjoying it greatly. Rich Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick 3 Posted May 24, 2006 Take digital photo's of everything in the engine bay for reference. Buy a large bag of rags. Buy loads of de-greaser, Jizer, Gunk etc... Cover the wings in blankets or buy a set of wing covers (my paintwork was never the same after my conversion) Buy loads of cable ties and an assortment of metric nuts and bolts. Get a good soldering iron, electrical crimping tool, and loads of electrical crimps. Keep a pen and paper handy or post-its (I found this invaluable for jotting down things to do "don't forget - no oil in g/box" etc...) as I was seeming to do a bit here and there and it's easy to forget things. Take the missus out for a meal as you may not see her for a while. Work out how long it will take, and double it (at least!) I was hoping to get mine finished in under a week and it took four weeks of working four hours a night and all weekends. Take your time, don't bodge anything (especially the wiring) if you find something that looks slightly dodgy and wants replacing, replace it. It's so much easier to do with the engine out and on the floor, plus when it's all done the last thing you want is to be sorting out is stupid little thing like rattles and oil/water leaks. Enjoy and good luck! Nick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest puglet Posted May 24, 2006 Take the missus out for a meal as you may not see her for a while. take it thats a hidden expence that you don't budget for still in the process of rebuilding my mi its costing the best part of £400 this month and thats with at the work being done myself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jackherer 543 Posted May 24, 2006 Also, still with mother's best broom in hand, cut off two more 6" lengths, and wedge them in the driveshaft holes in the diff, to stop anything that might fall out or collapse doing so. you only need to do that with very early gearboxes apparently. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
