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jacobs53

Be-1 Gearbox Pin

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jacobs53

Why the hell did peugeot design the crappy BE1 box with that stupid pin between the release fork and the clutch cable pivot point?

 

Has anybody found anything more reliable? which fixes in place

 

lee

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pug_ham

Swap the clutch arm for a later BE3 style arm, makes the clutch action lighter, smoother & altogether better.

 

Graham.

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gti_al

The entire Be1 design gives me the s*its. I've found the release bearing seems to enjoy falling off the fork while you refit the gearbox as well...

 

I managed to lose that pin the other day as well... Now i've got a slightly longer (cut down) bolt in there, and a spare pin in the ashtray.

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pug_ham
The entire Be1 design gives me the s*its. I've found the release bearing seems to enjoy falling off the fork while you refit the gearbox as well...

They still do this on the Be3, you just have to be careful.

 

Graham.

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steve@cornwall
Swap the clutch arm for a later BE3 style arm, makes the clutch action lighter, smoother & altogether better.

 

Graham.

 

does this also require the cable and pedal from be3?

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pug_ham
does this also require the cable and pedal from be3?

Don't honestly know as I've never done it but I don't think it should as the clutch fork cable ends are the same on both afaik.

 

Graham.

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gti_al
They still do this on the Be3, you just have to be careful.

 

Graham.

 

I know. It seems the fork doesn't flap around as much when you are wiggling it back on.

 

I really should have learn to me more careful the first time too... :D

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Rob_the_Sparky

Best way to hang on to them when the cable breaks is to drill a very small hole through them then feed a length of MIG wire through the hole and tie the other end to something suitable. They then stay with the car if it drops out...

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the_mighty_one

hey,

 

ive swapped the arm on my be1 to a be3 style.

 

it is a bit of a mission, but its definatly worth it, no loosing the pin, easier clutch and it works more progressivly!!

 

The BE3 is a much much better design. But to fit the fork into the box you need to drive the lock pin out of the top of the BE3 arm and lift the arm off the top (unless you got it off already) then remove the plastic caps/ bushes and push pull the fork spindle up and down till it moves out through the bellhousing.

 

The BE1 box is pre dilled for the bushes, but just has blanking plates in the holes, which need removing.

 

refitting is exactly the reverse, wriggle the fork spindle into place, fit the plastic bushes to hold it in place, then refit the arm, which is best fitted with a nut and bolt so you can get it off again easier.

 

then you are onto the next problem, the cable is different and needs modifications or swapping, as it mounts further round the gearbox on the be3, not in the same place to the be1 do to the arm being further round also.

 

the way i got round this was to remove the two nuts off the thread on the cable, then i welded a small diametre hollow bar one of them and welded a M6 bolt into the pipe, that way it extends the threaded part to meet the clutch arm. then you can use new M6 nuts and you can hold the cable from turning using the original nut you welded to it.

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veloce200

just fitted a new clutch to mine - turned out it was the bush on the back of the fork that was knackered (knocking noise when clutch was depressed) they only supply complete fork now. used to think the clutch was well heavy - still the same - even with new cable - i guess this is just a BE1 "feature". still it fits with the stripped out interior - feels like a race clutch!

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205_sunderland
The entire Be1 design gives me the s*its. I've found the release bearing seems to enjoy falling off the fork while you refit the gearbox as well...

 

I managed to lose that pin the other day as well... Now i've got a slightly longer (cut down) bolt in there, and a spare pin in the ashtray.

 

 

when mine snapped the other day i had to make a replacement from a bolt and ive got 2 real ones sitting there now just in case:)

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