Guest smokinslim Posted May 19, 2006 Is a slide hammer a worthwhile purchase when it comes to taking beams apart? And if so what sort of size do people recommend? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted May 19, 2006 i borrowed paintguys when i set my rear beam height at the weekend and i found it invaluable. Made pulling torsion bars out a piece of piss, it was quicker and quieter than smashing the s*it out of the trailing arms with a BFO lump hammer not sure about size though as i didn't know there were different sized ones Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wurzel 16 Posted May 19, 2006 You can get larger size slide hammers (heavier slider). The problem I've found is that due to the stud size (about 8mm) it is going to be the weekest point. Some of the beams I've disassembled have simply laughed at slide hammers and the studs have sheared off, despite trying to be carefull with it. Occasionally, the lump hammer is the only way. You still might need one with a slide hammer to hit the torsion bar close to where it's engaged in the cross tube and trailing arm to break the rusty fusion. The slide hammer has a better chance then. Definately a good buy but not particularly necessary. Once the beam has been split, cleaned up thoroughly and greased, the bars should slide out with minimal effort for a good couple of years to come. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted May 19, 2006 (edited) yeah to be fair i have already rebuilt my beam and cleaned up and greased my splines so they did come out nice and easy. can never have too many tools though and i'm sure you could find other uses for it Edited May 19, 2006 by M@tt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Anthony 1,003 Posted May 19, 2006 I can see why one would be useful, but in all the beams I've rebuilt and lowered I've never used one.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sonofsam 5 Posted May 19, 2006 I made my own slidehammer,just one length of aluminium bar,threaded at one end to accept a grub screw wich screwed into the torsion bar,and one very solid tool on the bar to slide with,and of course a back stop,can get you the measurements if you like,works a treat,i've never used anything else... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest puglet Posted May 20, 2006 mine is home made, and its a brill piece of kit, makes it 1 hell of a lot easier. couldn't live without it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest smokinslim Posted May 20, 2006 Sounds like a worthy addition to the tool kit then, anyone want rid of theirs lol... What size do peeps recommmend for beam work? I've been looking for a while but nowhere local sells them, can only find them online. For all the different sizes avaliable all the pics look the same so its kinda hard to guage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pug_ham 244 3 Cars Posted May 21, 2006 I can see why one would be useful, but in all the beams I've rebuilt and lowered I've never used one....I've used one once on the first ever beam I stripped (my 309 GTi beam) before I learnt the smash the hell out of the radius arms to get the torsion bar out of the tube fitting. I then use an M8 bolt screwed fully into the bar where the stud usually fits & hit that to get the other end out of the radius arm on beams I'm rebuilding with great success & satisfaction. I adjusted the ride height on my 309 beam a couple of weeks ago after it had been together on the car for 18 months & the bars pulled out by hand with the trailing arm supported. They still run the risk of killing the outer bearings in use though imo & if the beam isn't getting refurbed or recently has been, I wouldn't bother trying to lower it using one. Graham. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy 191 Posted May 21, 2006 (edited) I don't like them, they tend to pull the thread. What I do is use an overlong bolt, washer nut and socket screwed into the bar end, tight the nut down the bolt to put tension in the bolt, then hammer the bar behind the end. You'll find you need to kept tightneing the nut slightly and gradually the bar is pulled through. Here's a pic: http://www.peugeot-gti.net/new_layout/site.../1090714247.jpg Edited May 21, 2006 by sandy309 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest smokinslim Posted May 21, 2006 Looks worth a try also thanks. The pics a good example too. I'm not after lowering as such, and certainly not as much as my old beam was lowered by. Probably in the future i will lower it a bit but my arches need more work first as i have 7" rims on now more immediately though my bearings have deteriorated drastically since swapping the ARB after the last beam change. But then i may change the beam again yet lol. The slide hammer question has been in the back of my mind for a bit anyway, and there isn't a better place to ask these questions i know of than here! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M@tt 77 Posted May 22, 2006 i was in machine mart at the weekend and they had slide hammers for 12+vat (not a special offer as far as i'm aware) cheapest i've seen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
