mareksio 0 Posted May 7, 2006 I've been suffering from a <3000 rpm misfire for the last few months, which has gradually been getting worse to the point where I can't really use the car . The problem only becomes apparent after a few minutes of driving, only as I accelerate, but it does misfire at idle. Over 3000 rpm, it's fine. It does seem to chuck out a bit of black smoke as I rev it, and all the plugs are black. So far, I've replaced: Dizzy cap (centre pin was shagged) Leads Plugs Coil (2nd hand one) Ignition amp (2nd hand one) AFM ECU temp sensor Fuel filter. I did a compression test yesterday, but with the engine cold, and got readings of 195-205 psi across all four cylinders. Seeing as the problem only occurs as the engine is warm, i'd have thought it might be igintion related. I haven't yet changed the rotor arm, but it does look fairly new. Any advice would be greatly appreciated; failing that, directions to the nearest cliff so I can hurl the car and/or myself off. Marek Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
petert 587 Posted May 7, 2006 sometime the rotor arm fails and sparks shoot out the back, 180 deg. out of phase. Look for burn marks. I would have also tipped the leads (arcing in the block), or an ignition module without heat transfer compound and/or bad earth. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mareksio 0 Posted May 7, 2006 There was no heat transfer compound on the module that I removed, and there was no evidence of any on the one that I replaced it with... I put some on when I assembled it, but is it possible I've bought a dud one? Do the modules break down quite quickly if they are put on dry? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mareksio 0 Posted May 10, 2006 Just for future reference, a new rotor arm has cured this. It must've failed internally; it looked perfect from the outside. Thanks, Marek Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C_W 3 1 Cars Posted May 11, 2006 Just for future reference, a new rotor arm has cured this. It must've failed internally; it looked perfect from the outside. Thanks, Marek The rotor arm was also the cause of my near 6-month misfire. The reason I didn't suspect it was because it ran perfectly before it went off the road for a couple of months and wasn't that old. It also ran well from cold but got worse when hot then became undriveable. The new rotor arm cured it completely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites