Where's My Oil Leak?

[Grim.Badger 15]

I've got a fairly big oil leak around the back of the engine of my 1990 1.9GTi. Most seems to be coming from either the sump gasket or around the gearbox somewhere The pipes around the front are fine, I've had them all off to check.

It can quite happily leak 2.5 litres of 10/40 synthetic in a day, though it leaks 2.5 litres of 10/40 mineral in a week and 15/40 mineral for a couple of weeks. I'd really like to sort this and get the engine running synthetic.

I'd rather not shell out on a steam clean at the moment as i've got to move house . Has any one any idea of any common places where the oil might be coming from.

[fulani 4]

My old GR used to leak about a pint a week, after filling the engine bay full of Fairy liquid and using a pressure washer connected up to the hot water tap (hey, it's sorta like a steam clean!) I discovered that it was the actual oil filter that was leaking.

Ripped that off (actually came off far too easily), changed the oil and put a new filter on, no more oil leak.

 

Leaking as much as you are, it's probably something more serious (I would guess), but my engine bay cleaning method may help you out. Just remember to leave the bonnet open in the sun for a couple of hours to dry it all out before you start it again.

[Grim.Badger 15]

I forgot to say a few things. There is no oil puddle under it, the lower back of the engine is covered in oil, it doesn't burn any (not that I can tell anyway) and I have oil pressure problems which are:

 

When I got the car 5k ago the oil pressure was a bit low, just below half way. I change the oil to sythetic and the oil pressure slowly dropped to just above the first bar, but it was loosing oil so I didn't see a problem. After talking to a couple of mechanics I changed to mineral to try and stop the leak, but the oil pressure didn't rise up again. When the oil level gets low the stop sign and warning lights come on and I stop the car to let it cool and top up.

Yesterday, and another day previously, when running synthetic again the warning lights came on when the engine was hot, but the pressure reading was good I stopped, let it cool and put 2 litres of tescos 20/50 in to see if thickening the oil helped. The oil pressure rose to above the second marker (quarter way) for the first time in ages and the warning lights stayed off, but checked the oil level today and it's a fair bit above the maximum.

 

The engine isn't noisy/tappy apart from my cracked manifold so I'm hoping it's not the bearings

 

The brown multiplug seems fine, no green corrosion on it at all, but the connections on both sender units are a bit corroded.

[Grim.Badger 15]

Another thing I forgot to say. Sometime when I press the clutch I think the oil pressure goes down, but I've yet to double check to be sure as I keep forgetting to keep an eye on it.

Also I don't know if this is a problem, or normal behaviour, but sometimes when you press the accelerator hard the revs climb without the car going any faster, almost like flooring an automatic and the gearbox automatically lifting the clutch

 

Now that I've written all this it seems like I've bought a right bag of spanners

[hengti 2]

2.5l a day!

that's like, half your oil mate! are you sure?

 

 

don't know, but presume these engines have a crank end seal to stop oil getting to the clutch (and causing the clutch slip it sounds as though you're describing)

 

the distributor o ring is also a favorite source of leaks - all down the back of the engine

 

 

sounds as though there's rather alot of oil swimming around in your engine somewhere ...

[littlemike 0]

It sounds like you clutch is slipping because the crankshaft oil seal (behind the flywheel) at the gearbox end of the engine is leaking oil which ends up on the end of the engine, on the gearbox where it meets the engine and on the clutch.

[gti_al 1]

I had a heap of oil down there, and it turned out to be the rear main pissing it out... I had heaps of oil around the back of the box, and the sump was pretty wet too.

 

It isn't hard to change the seal itself, although the box and flywheel do have to come off.

 

Perhaps remove the lower flywheel cover and have a look inside. Mine was really wet, so it was obvious that something was leaking.

[Grim.Badger 15]

2.5l a day!

that's like, half your oil mate! are you sure?

don't know, but presume these engines have a crank end seal to stop oil getting to the clutch (and causing the clutch slip it sounds as though you're describing)

 

the distributor o ring is also a favorite source of leaks - all down the back of the engine

sounds as though there's rather alot of oil swimming around in your engine somewhere ...

 

 

It sounds like you clutch is slipping because the crankshaft oil seal (behind the flywheel) at the gearbox end of the engine is leaking oil which ends up on the end of the engine, on the gearbox where it meets the engine and on the clutch.

 

 

I had a heap of oil down there, and it turned out to be the rear main pissing it out... I had heaps of oil around the back of the box, and the sump was pretty wet too.

 

It isn't hard to change the seal itself, although the box and flywheel do have to come off.

 

Perhaps remove the lower flywheel cover and have a look inside. Mine was really wet, so it was obvious that something was leaking.

 

Cheers, that sounds about right. The system managed to pressurise (half way) yesterday when I started it up, but then lost pressure within about 100 yards only to build up again on a long 40mph stretch.

The oil is all around the gearbox, none coming from the dizzy.

I found out that it doesn't leak 2.5 litres of synthetic, it just can't pressurise it when it's hot as well as mineral so it looks like it's lost a lot more than it has.

 

Cheers, I'll look into taking off the box and flywheel

[Grim.Badger 15]

My clutch slip has suddenly got much worse so I'm going to try and fit a new seal this weekend. Is there anything else that needs changing when I take this apart or can I use all the old components? I'm on a strict budget of nothing so the more parts I reuse the better.

Don't know how I'm going to manage this on my own but I'm going to try

[gti_al 1]

I would put a new input seal into the gearbox, as i found mine leaking quite badly last time the box was off. For an extra 10 minutes and few bucks it isn't worth not doing...

 

Otherwise do the driveshaft seals so that you know they are ok if you get any more leaks.

[Guest yaztromo]

I had and still have a major oil leak from the hole that the dipstick tube goes into. That'd be worth a check.

[Grim.Badger 15]

I would put a new input seal into the gearbox, as i found mine leaking quite badly last time the box was off. For an extra 10 minutes and few bucks it isn't worth not doing...

 

Otherwise do the driveshaft seals so that you know they are ok if you get any more leaks.

 

Sorry for being dumb, but which seal is the input seal and where does it go?

[gti_al 1]

Sorry for being dumb, but which seal is the input seal and where does it go?

 

Sorry... It is behind the input shaft in the bellhousing. You remove the three bolts around the shaft, and it lifts off.

 

I believe it gets disturbed when the gearbox is removed/refitted, and then leaks...

[Pug_101 0]

My clutch slip has suddenly got much worse so I'm going to try and fit a new seal this weekend. Is there anything else that needs changing when I take this apart or can I use all the old components? I'm on a strict budget of nothing so the more parts I reuse the better.

Don't know how I'm going to manage this on my own but I'm going to try

 

If the clutch has oil on it, it's fu*ked and needs replacing.

I would also think the flywheel bolts should be replaced as well, some can only be used once. I am sure someone with more pug engine experience could tell you for sure.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

Haynes recommend changing the Flywheel botls but I've re-used the ones on my engine three times now with no problems.

 

IIRC someone asked at Peugeot & they only replace them on condition & not as a general rule.

 

If the clutch is slipping due to oil contamination then it will need a new clutch kit.

 

Graham.

[gti_al 1]

When i had my flywheel off the bolts were cleaned and buffed so the threads were clean. (to ensure they were retorqued correctly) Otherwise, i couldn't see any reason to replace them.

 

While it is off get it machined - i know it is a pain in the ass and another expense, but it is worth it. My clutch bites so hard now... (plus it won't get the hot spots or whatever it is that happens) This isn't a job you want to do again in a couple of months...

[Grim.Badger 15]

Damn I could have done without having to do all this. I wonder if I stick my fingers in my ears and repeat "la la la la la" it'll all go away

I'll probably get a garage to sort this after spending a day cutting my hands apart and getting knackered and covered in oil and grease without even getting to the stage of removing the gearbox I never thought one engine could be covered in so much oil and gunk

 

Cheers for the answers